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  1. #1
    Light Load Member Cat nip's Avatar
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    Cat Anybody know how to do the home charge air cooler test?

    Anybody know how to do the home charge air cooler test?


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    Road Train Member Heavyd's Avatar
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    Well, you really can't properly test it without capping one end and applying 25 psi to the other end and check if for leaks. If your boost is low and you suspect a leak you can inspect around welds, corners, where the cross tubes are welded to the side pieces. Most trucks have the A/C condenser in front so it is hard to see if there are any cracks. Most leaks will leave a black streak, which is really hard to see since most are painted black too.

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat nip View Post
    Anybody know how to do the home charge air cooler test?
    If you go to a plumbing store and buy a couple of PVC pipe fittings that you can clamp into the ends on the CAC hoses with 1/2 npt holes in the center plug one (end with brass) the other end use a brass adapter to a brass tee put a schreder valve and a pressure guage in the tee pressure up to 15 psi and see how long it holds if ti holds 15 try a little higher BUT use caution that the plugs don't fall out.If it holds 15 psi for an hour its prolly ok. if you want higher presure have a machine shop make test plugs

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  6. #4
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    I made a tool to test them, I took 4" exhaust tubing and welded a plate on one end of each (used some scrap 1/8" plate) , then i welded a small bead on outside edge of uncapped end .. The bead doesnt need to be thick just used to keep hose and clamp from sliding off (similar to factory piping).... Then drilled and tapped both of the 1/8" plates to accept a shop air male quik connect and compressor t valve (to controll air flow on off) and a male air pressure gauge ..... The male coupler threads into the t valve and the t valve into the 1/8" plate ..... On the other just thread the air pressure gauge into the 1/8" plate .. o and use plenty of teflon tape..... I took and hooked my cap tools toghter end to end with an old hose and clamps to pressurize and check for leaks in a tub of water.... one cap was perfect first shot , the other took a couple touch up beads of weld to make air tight.... Think i spent about 15 bucks at the farm store on parts and about 1 hours labor.......... now i can check CAC's till im blue in the face..... once you made your tools, intall one on each end of cac using your original hoses n clamps, pressurize to 35 to 40 pounds shut off valve to cut off shop air and watch gauge for pressure loss.... you can also use these tools for testing for pinholes in you other hoses by hooking caps end to end and pressurizing..... ive had 80 pound in my cac before so i think 35-40 # would be ok.... most of the time if ther's a leak it will show up right away, but i belive some mfgrs say some loss over a sort period of time is acceptable, just not in my opin......
    Last edited by Coal Bucket; 01.20.2010 at 12.11 PM.

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  8. #5
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    i just got done typin and saw ya beat me to it longhood... i tried the pvc but always had problems with them spittin out (as you stated).. the schraider valve tip is a good one, simpler than my setup... shoulda thought of that....the pro wrenches i know always told me if they hold for 5, 10, or 15 minutes their good...but i could be wrong..... happend once before lol....

  9. #6
    Light Load Member Cat nip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coal Bucket View Post
    i just got done typin and saw ya beat me to it longhood... i tried the pvc but always had problems with them spittin out (as you stated).. the schraider valve tip is a good one, simpler than my setup... shoulda thought of that....the pro wrenches i know always told me if they hold for 5, 10, or 15 minutes their good...but i could be wrong..... happend once before lol....
    I finally found some info on another site. they said to tap in some srews if u use pvc so the rubber hose has something to grab ahold of when u tighten down the clamps so the caps don't fly out and take out a squirrel or your dog!

  10. #7
    Road Train Member ironeagle2006's Avatar
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    Or as my Idiot shop foreman found out DO NOT BEND OVER the CAC when doing the test. We were testing on one time and had the PVC tester come out. Hit him in the nose. He ended up with a broken nose and lost all his front teeth. His wife who worked as a Writer in the shop on my shift 2nd he was 1st shift goes so honey how did it feel to try to swallow that.

  11. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coal Bucket View Post
    I made a tool to test them, I took 4" exhaust tubing and welded a plate on one end of each (used some scrap 1/8" plate) , then i welded a small bead on outside edge of uncapped end .. The bead doesnt need to be thick just used to keep hose and clamp from sliding off (similar to factory piping).... Then drilled and tapped both of the 1/8" plates to accept a shop air male quik connect and compressor t valve (to controll air flow on off) and a male air pressure gauge ..... The male coupler threads into the t valve and the t valve into the 1/8" plate ..... On the other just thread the air pressure gauge into the 1/8" plate .. o and use plenty of teflon tape..... I took and hooked my cap tools toghter end to end with an old hose and clamps to pressurize and check for leaks in a tub of water.... one cap was perfect first shot , the other took a couple touch up beads of weld to make air tight.... Think i spent about 15 bucks at the farm store on parts and about 1 hours labor.......... now i can check CAC's till im blue in the face..... once you made your tools, intall one on each end of cac using your original hoses n clamps, pressurize to 35 to 40 pounds shut off valve to cut off shop air and watch gauge for pressure loss.... you can also use these tools for testing for pinholes in you other hoses by hooking caps end to end and pressurizing..... ive had 80 pound in my cac before so i think 35-40 # would be ok.... most of the time if ther's a leak it will show up right away, but i belive some mfgrs say some loss over a sort period of time is acceptable, just not in my opin......

    Sh^^t that is just too complicated for me. hat's off to you for the knowledge you have, plus the patience. I need a air to air check too, I think I will take it in to the local garage.

  12. #9
    Bobtail Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironeagle2006 View Post
    Or as my Idiot shop foreman found out DO NOT BEND OVER the CAC when doing the test. We were testing on one time and had the PVC tester come out. Hit him in the nose. He ended up with a broken nose and lost all his front teeth.
    THANKS FOR THAT POST ! ! ! !

    I think this might be a job I would pay someone with the correct tool to do once I check the obvious stuff.

    Rosie

  13. #10
    Bobtail Member
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    If you use pvc caps, lathe the caps down, leaving a ridge for the clamps to hold to, also place eye bo

    lts in the end to tie a short rope to in case they fly off, they won't hit you or take out your windshield!

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