As part of my annual inspection, my local shop changed out my steering box, said the old one was leaking oil (could not have been major because I didn't notice it).
It was steering fine, did have a bit of play but not enough to be concerned. Anyway, after getting back on the road, and expecting the truck to steer much better, was
disappointed to find it actually much worse with the "new" (rebuilt) trw box on it. I have 3-4" of freeplay on the steering wheel. The play, is all happening in the box, between the input and output shaft. Everything else, tie rods, u-joint, etc. are all good. I took it back to the shop and complained. The head mechanic looked at it, said he could do a small adjustment, but that you don't want it too tight because it will wear the gears prematurely. Huh? It seems to me that in a precision system such as a steering, you need all components to be tight (within reason of course) in order to work properly. Anyway he had a junior mechanic do a minor adjust on it, then told me to
try it. When it was done, he asked the junior mech how much he had set it, was told 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, then he tells him that you can actually turn them all the way in to stop, and back them off just a bit. Why he didn't tell him this in the first place I don't know. Anyway they sent me on my way to "see how it goes". Well, maybe a slight bit better, but not much. I will have to take it back to them, but I just wanted some input here on, first of all, does anyone agree with me that a rebuilt box should have only
a tiny bit of play between input and output shaft (so that you could maybe rock the shaft about 1/16 of an inch, not 1/2 to 3/4? I told the shop I questioned whether the truck would pass a roadside dot inspection and was told you can have up to a quarter of a turn in the steering wheel before they would be concerned! I don't think so! And does anyone know the part about setting up these boxes as far as the turning in all the way and then back off a bit? I want as much knowledge as I can get before I go back there. To me there are 2 things here that are unacceptable, that a rebuilt box would come this way, and second that this shop more or less scoffed at my concern and were reluctant to do much. There are 2 things on a truck that I will not tolerate, vibration-shaking, and wandering-steering. Feedback please.
TRW Steering Box
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by 04 LowMax, Sep 12, 2013.
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Maybe the pitman arm is loose, that will cause excessive steering wheel play. Raise the hood, grab hold of the steering shaft and twist it back and forth keeping close eye on the splines inside the pitman arm. There should be no looseness there at all, if there is grab a couple of wrenches and tighten it.
04 LowMax Thanks this. -
I wrench??? How about a impact that's wat I had to use
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2 big wrenches and one cheater pipe same difference. Nice to have a helper to hold one side. Don't get too crazy with it....
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Seriously sounds like a bunch of part changers who are clueless. Sounds like a scam.
I would go back and tell them to either adjust it right, show you why there is play when there wasn't or you will take it to a dealer who will do the work right and send them the bill.
Just because it is leaking doesn't mean the box needs to be changed, I would have asked for the original one back to inspect it. They make seal kits for all these boxes, it takes a bit more time to change the seals on the box than it does replacing it.
Adjusting the box is easy, it takes 15 minutes to properly do and any mechanic should know the basics.
I have to add that the comment "The head mechanic looked at it, said he could do a small adjustment, but that you don't want it too tight because it will wear the gears prematurely." would have me very worried that he has no clue what he is doing in the first place.cetanediesel Thanks this. -
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Unacceptable period! It should feel like a new truck after that kind of bill. If it is WORSE than the old one then, how is that fixed. He just charged you to put on worse parts. Do as others have said, stick it to him, and if they dont do what makes YOU feel good about the steering of your 80,000 lbs. truck have it looked at somewhere else.
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As I said, the box didn't need to be changed out, anyone can change the seals in it for less than a $100.
so I think you are right in your assessment.
It is possible to adjust the box, it should have been done right when it was put on.
TRW has a book on their site - TRW800.pdf - that will give you a one page description of how to adjust the box. Yes it can be done, you have to drop the cross link off the pitman arm and then have a torque wrench and other tools to do it right.rollin coal and 04 LowMax Thank this. -
Sector Shaft Adjustment
Tools Required Materials Required
Screwdriver
3⁄4" Socket
3⁄4" Open end wrench
This adjustment can only be completed on the vehicle if
the adjusting screw jam nut is accessible. This nut is
located on the side cover.
Photos in this section were taken on a mock frame rail for
clarity.
Center the sector
shaft
1. With the engine on, rotate the steering wheel (input
shaft) until the timing mark on the sector shaft lines
up with the mark on the housing. The line on the
sector shaft should be at a 90° angle from the input
shaft. The sector shaft is now on its "center of
travel". Turn the vehicle off.
Remove the drag
link
2. Remove the drag link from the pitman arm.
To avoid resetting the poppets, do
not rotate the input shaft more than
11⁄2 turns from the "center of travel" position while the
drag link is disconnected.
Check for sector
shaft lash
Loosen jam nut
3. From the "center of travel" position, grasp the
pitman arm and gently try to rotate it back and forth.
If looseness or lash is felt at this point, the sector
shaft is out of adjustment.
4. Loosen the jam nut.
3⁄4" Socket If the gear is removed from the
vehicle to adjust the lash:
Leave the pitman arm connected to the gear.
Best option is to follow the Final Adjustment
procedure on page 67.
Alternate option is to continue with step 5 of this
procedure.
Position adjusting
screw
Adjust shaft
5. If no lash was detected in step 3, turn the shaft
adjusting screw counterclockwise until you feel lash
at the output shaft.
6. Slowly turn the shaft adjusting screw clockwise until
you feel no lash at the output shaft without using
more than 10 lbfft (14 Nm) of torque. From this
position, turn the screw clockwise 1⁄8 to 3⁄16 of a turn
more. Hold the adjusting screw in place, and
tighten the jam nut. Final jam nut torque 43 lbfft (58
Nm).
Screwdriver
Screwdriver
3⁄4" Open end
wrench
Recheck for lash
Connect drag link
7. Turn the steering wheel 1⁄4 turn each side of center,
then back to center and recheck the pitman arm for
lash. You should feel no lash; if there is lash, repeat
steps 4, 6 and 7.
8. Reconnect the drag link to the pitman arm according
to manufacturer's specifications.
Maintain grease in the sector shaft
bearing through the grease fitting
in the housing using only a hand operated grease gun.
Add grease until it begins to extrude past the dirt and
water seal. Do not use a power grease gun because it
will supply grease too fast; this could adversely affect
the high pressure seal and contaminate the hydraulic
fluid.04 LowMax and rollin coal Thank this. -
I replace my trw gear box today. When sitting the poppets I noticed when I turned the wheel all the way right towards the end of the turn the steering wheel kept moving about 1in but not the wheels. Took it out on a sets drive I can make a left turn with ease but when turning to the right there is play before the wheels start turning. Can some one tell me what I did wrong or need to do?
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