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  1. #1
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    MID 128 SID 211 5 Volt DC Supply

    Fun w/volvo's.

    I'm excited to figure this one out.

    FMI 4

    symptoms include : poor driveability, strange information displayed on cluster

    ??? poor driveability from a 5 volt dc supply?

    This weekends other exciting maintenance include replacing abs sensor and bracket on Right Front brakes, a new headlight assembly for driver side(mine has the clarity of a clam shell) and a rear of cab light bulb....yehaaa

  2. #2
    Road Train Member Pablo-UA's Avatar
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    any sensor ore sensor wiring short and low sensor power supply

    disconnect all sensors one by one to find faulty one.

    Start with oil pressure sensor, crankcase pres. sensor, fuel pressure sensor.

    Inspect wiring

  3. #3
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    pablo,
    thank you.
    where's your tip jar...paypal?

  4. #4
    Road Train Member Pablo-UA's Avatar
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    I have no pay pal

    btw, have you solved your problem?

  5. #5
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    no- it must be related to my 'oil can' dash monitor, which still reads zero.

    I can't figure out how the sensor cord attaches.it wiggles in both directions; clock-counter clock.
    i'm sensitive to apply to much 'hand torgue' to the snaplock??

    same for the crankcase sensoe that was replaced last month.

  6. #6
    Road Train Member Pablo-UA's Avatar
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    what engine? D12D ore D13?

  7. #7
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    2006 vnl 780 d12 6n434786

  8. #8
    Light Load Member sbaumann14's Avatar
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    I'd start with the crank sensor that was just replaced...might not have tightenedit all the way

  9. #9
    Road Train Member Pablo-UA's Avatar
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    it is D12D. The last D12 in Volvo... Some D12F were in Renault but in F version with ECM like on D13.

    Ok, where to find problem.... really everywhere. Dealers use brake boxes to find bad sensor ore bad wirng. I use the other way - separate ECM connector and check all sensors one by one, I have wiring diagram of D12D EU and US versions, so I can post it to you. Simple DVOM really helps

  10. #10
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    so.
    Volvo dealer is saying that the 5volt was traced to the egr#2.

    my response- If you replace the egr#2 , will it solve the "zero" reading on my oil pressure dash gauge? (because they say it operates off the same circuit.)
    If I'm not throwing any fault codes for EGR, why would replacing the unit solve the 'short' problem. should'nt they instead look for the 'short' problem?

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