No communication with ecu or body builder module.

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by bowtieboy77, Nov 28, 2013.

  1. bowtieboy77

    bowtieboy77 Light Load Member

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    I am wondering if anyone has had this happen. 2005 volvo vhd with d12 engine. Finnished variouse repairs started it up it ran for about 10 secs and died no repairs were made to engine or wiring. Would not start after repeated attempts crank but not fire. After several attempts it started. I drove around the yard a little parked it and as it idled it shut down again and would not start. This morning checked fuse at battery and in fuse panel all good. Tried to start and it started went for small drive worked fine. Got back shut it off and would'nt start. Checked codes nothing on scanner except a egr reed valve not a code to allow not to start. Checked codes through cluster and found to codes error communicating with ecu and error communicating with body builder module. Tomorrow I guess I check every connection from battery, firewall, to fuse panel. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
     
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  3. bad-luck

    bad-luck Road Train Member

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    Might be the starter
     
  4. Pablo-UA

    Pablo-UA Road Train Member

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    BBM and VECU are in one box (if it is not MACK ore Renault), so you got now power on VECU+BBM ore bad J1939 ore J1708 wiring

    Dashboard uses both, datalink (1708) + CAN (1939), so both lines cant be damaged.. usually..... but CAN and datalink runs around all the truck including chassis wiring. so check all places U worked on

    No start - becouse START operations are all by CAN!
     
  5. bowtieboy77

    bowtieboy77 Light Load Member

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    Well thats the wierd thing I did'nt work on any wiring that has to do with the starter, batteries, or any wiring behind dash. I do have a thought. I did some minor welding on the plough (its a salt shaker) with mig set around 18.5 volts but the antizap device was connected to batteries. We have had no problems when using the device. If I did overload a circuit caused by welding why would it be a intermittent starting issue it should not run at all. The only other wiring I did was a minor wiring repair on the plough lamps and it started and moved over to another part of the shop after to get to the welder. It looks like I'm looking for a needle in a very large hay stack tomorrow.
     
  6. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    did you just weld on the same truck that wont run now?
     
  7. Pablo-UA

    Pablo-UA Road Train Member

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    welding kills electronics, especially if you disconnect batteries....

    but I hope u got wiring problems only
     
  8. Richter

    Richter Road Train Member

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    what were the "various repairs" thats where i would start.
     
  9. bowtieboy77

    bowtieboy77 Light Load Member

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    Southern, Ontario
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    I realize welding kills electronics thats why we have the device that goes on batteries to for lack of better term "catch" the stray current and it does work. If it were damaged electrical due to welding it should'nt be intermittent. The repairs were simple plow lamp repair which would not effect ecms. I'm thinking its just coencidence. In any case power from battery to cab is good and fuses is good. It got towed to volvo dealer today they have the diagnostics to investigate deeper or reprogram if needed. With 13 other snow plows to keep going no sense me spending hours on it when other trucks have maintenance required. Let you know what it was thanks for the replies.
     
    baha Thanks this.
  10. fok98156

    fok98156 Bobtail Member

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    Hi any news after towed to the dealership? did they fix it? if so how and what did they replaced? I got a same problem said the J1939 and Can Data Link issues! After my driver play with the connecting cable, I think he burnt out some wire some where! Any thoughts? Thanks
     
  11. bowtieboy77

    bowtieboy77 Light Load Member

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    Yes the dealership found the problem. Unfortunatly for me it was a very simple problem which I should have caught but mistakes happen. What they claim is the 10amp fuse holder at the batteries was melted and not a weatherproof holder which it was'nt. I checked for power and both sides of fuse had power but I should have pulled the fuse out and closely inspected the fuse holder inside oops. So that was all it was a $3 fuse holder melted due to corrosion on contacts.
     
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