08 780 D13 water pump and pump housing removal?

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by justsomeguy, Apr 16, 2015.

  1. justsomeguy

    justsomeguy Bobtail Member

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    Anyone have any insight into this? We're looking at driving upstate and trying to remove all the junk in the way of the water pump and housing, taking both of these off, and replacing all the seals and gaskets involved because there is a huge catastrophic leak in this area. How difficult is this? How do we lessen tension on the belt, etc? The owner paid for some sort of service manual (turns out to be a collection of pdfs) but it looks like it omits anything about this job.

    And does anyone know anything about a coolant filter in this general area?

    This started as diesel in the coolant. Suspected water separator, so bypassed it since it's been warming up. (coolant lines serve to warm it, figured that might be where the mix was happening.) Flushed coolant system and days later had a liiittle bit of diesel in the coolant, which could just been pockets that didn't get flushed or something. Was a tiny amount, so we weren't worried.

    Then on an overnight run the engine started bleeding water from the front right corner, turned out that the water pump housing was leaking like a sieve - add water to the overflow tank and it would immediately drain out of the water pump housing. Paid roughly $1000 in Atlanta to have the seals replaced. Mechanic/owner wouldn't/couldn't give part numbers for seals after the job was done, saying "Oh, these were just seals that Volvo had on hand." Well obviously, and if that were true, they'd have !@#$!@$ part numbers.

    So at least it was holding water, but that didn't last. Two nights later it's leaking again from the same place, but the owner drove it hot (up to 260F oil temp, something I never would have done) and now the EGR cooler is leaking too. He bought a new one, so we have that, but the water pump housing is a problem since it was allegedly fixed once and started leaking again. There is also now a little bit of what might be oil in the coolant.

    He saw a coolant filter in that area around the water pump in his new manual too, does anyone know anything about that? He's wondering if it could be clogged and creating back-pressure sufficient to blow gaskets/seals in the area.

    maybehousing1.jpg maybehousing2.jpg

    Do these look familiar?
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
    Johny41 Thanks this.
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  3. nasriza

    nasriza Road Train Member

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    This engine is putting compression and fuel in the coolant what you're explaining you need to take this truck in and have the cups replaced all you're trying to do right now is fix the damage that can happen when you have pressure in the coolant you have to fix the cause of the fuel and psi in the cooling system water pump is not hard to remove but if you're wondering how to take the belt off in my opinion this isn't something you should take on and on top of all this the truck was overheated so god knows what the damage it caused but first thing is cups and get it done properly maybe an injector or two
     
  4. justsomeguy

    justsomeguy Bobtail Member

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    I should have mentioned cups is a suspicion but there are a lot of other areas it could be getting in, so he's a little unwilling to spend another $1500-$2000 minimum on cups when it might not be the cause. Thanks for the response, though.

    Also I guess I wasn't clear - it doesn't really appear to be pumping much or any fuel into the coolant now, compared to how bad it was at first. If it was cups, that would be pretty constant, right?
     
  5. nasriza

    nasriza Road Train Member

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    It's not the fuel you have to worry about u have to make sure there is no compression in the cooling system this will cause more damage then fuel it will cause hoses radiator pump all kinds of stuff to start leaking water pump is easy to remove you take belt off with 1/2 " ratchet and remove 12 mil bolts better to replace it if leaking as long as coolant manifolds if I was you I wouldn't touch them they take more experience to put back all the rings nicely so they don't leak
     
    justsomeguy Thanks this.
  6. justsomeguy

    justsomeguy Bobtail Member

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    I've spoken to two mechanics about inding out if it's cups, and they both said the only way to tell is to really do the job and see, which sounds like bs to me. Is there any inexpensive way to tell if the cups need to be replaced? And is there a compression test for coolant system or something?
     
  7. nasriza

    nasriza Road Train Member

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    U can do a compression test with scan tool on engine and also a cylinder balance test it gives u a little bit of a better idea if nothing is found then run shop air to air compressor and drain air tanks and see if still pressure being made in the cooling system if still making excessive psi then has to be cups or head gasket but from what you're describing cups are done if that truck came in my shop that's first thing I would do based on experience Volvo engines need cups done at least one in some cases more depends how they get abused
     
    justsomeguy Thanks this.
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