What you’re describing is called “brazing”
YouTube to learn how, it’s not hard, just got to do it right and set the metal evenly and keep it really clean prior.
if you’re bad spot is aluminum you can braze with aluminum brazing rods and a matching aluminum plate (cut to fit space). Make sure they’re the same type of aluminum grade.
you can put some steel under the spot to avoid burning the insulation (aluminum won’t stick to steel) , but aluminum dissipates heat really quick so you could “spot” braze it if you’re afraid to burn under.
KEEP IT CLEAN, or the aluminum will have bubbles inside the weld that will crack
Reefer floor repair
Discussion in 'Refrigerated Trucking Forum' started by TCF, Mar 16, 2022.
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I'm good with brazing... Used to sweat fit a lot of copper... The product is just called "aluminum welding rods"..
Most of it is cracks.... Wire brush and non chlorinated brake cleaner I was thinking...
The few spots with holes..... Steel is a great idea.
As far as the insulation... That's what I'm worried about.... The floor is just one giant heat sync and aluminum is a great material for that... Even with the spots that I'm just trying to fill cracks.... Do you think I should even care about the insulation or just crank up the Mapp and let it roll?
Since I have to keep constantly applying heat to get it to the right temperature... I assume it will do much more damage that normal welding would because the contact time will be drastically longer...
And apparently some call them "aluminum brazing/welding rods"...
Whatever... Harbor freight... Aluminum magic sticks... -
i would try to figure out a way to cool the underside while applying heat on top, but I’m normally over cautious.
maybe a waterhose fastened to a saw horse with a vice grip and zips? Lol -
Will that work through the under side with the insulation in between?
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If the floor is cracked from flexing, welding it won't fix a thing. If something hit it and gouged a hole you can weld that back up.
You don't have to worry about the foam, unless you put heat directly to it.jbatmick Thanks this. -
If you get the Hobart 210MVP with the spool gun and correct gas bottle, welding the inside of a trailer is a breeze. It welds it like a champ. Make this your dedicated aluminum rig. The spool gun is best because the aluminum wire is soft. It is fast and does not heat up the insulation unless you are welding a long stretch. It is pricey, yet, once you get it dialed in, welding aluminum is like zipping up a coat.
rollin coal Thanks this. -
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That is not an inexpensive piece of equipment. I was hoping for the rods because of price....
I definitely know welding would cause less heat and damage but I definitely don't have the money to be able to afford that currently.... Nor a use for it once I'm done with this one repair? -
Weird... I did a reply and it looks like it inserted it into your comment...
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This is true. I tried the rods back in 2012 or earlier. Just would not work for me. I bit the bullet and purchased this Hobart mig. At the time, Northern was running a special on the 210MVP with the spool gun for $899. The bottle was another $300. It is a dedicated aluminum welding unit. We have probably used it twice. Once on a floor crack from a forklift fork. Once on a hood bracket for a whopping total of about 8 inches worth of weld. Yet, like I stated, once dialed in, that puppy flat out welds.
TCF and supergreatguy Thank this.
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