Buying a used truck. 97 w/12.7 Detroit or 13 with ISX15

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Seanp1226, May 18, 2025.

  1. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    A truck is more than an engine. I'd be looking at the frames, crossmembers, diff housings, suspension bushings, condition of the wiring, air lines, cab structure condition etc.

    Too many people see a truck has an overhauled engine and are then suddenly blinded to the rest of the truck being beat to crap or rotting away. Diff housings and frame rails are not cheap to replace and in most cases the truck gets scrapped.
     
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  3. ducnut

    ducnut Road Train Member

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    Have you considered something like an OEM lease? You’d have a set monthly, which is a write off. If things don’t go as planned, you just turn it in. I would never lease a PACCAR product, because you’ll be spending more time swapping trucks at the dealer than running miles. But, Volvo, Freightliner, and International all have truck lease programs. And, you’d be operating something that’ll actually fuel mileage, with the fuel savings probably paying most of your payment.
     
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  4. sbaumann14

    sbaumann14 Road Train Member

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    Just inframed my S60 in January using Detroit head and a PAI kit. Everything but injections and turbo. $18400. An ISX would cost ya double for that AND u still have all that emissions crap to deal with.
     
  5. blairandgretchen

    blairandgretchen Road Train Member

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    Thanks for an updated figure - it used to be 10-12, maybe 8 years back.

    I think I've got another 3 years or so on this one.

    Wait - bull gear as well?
     
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  6. abyliks

    abyliks Road Train Member

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    fuel lines with fitting. Tank to motor, motor back, and line to guage on the dash, I’d have to double check but I’m pretty sure those were $2500 alone + the ~15 hours

    drivers door hinge with the hucks $850…

    Adds up quick

    edit; oh the ####ing E con check valve for the air dryer $4xx, that one pissed me off for a single valve, but it’s fixed, and that was something that was changed so the original diagrams did me no good until I called bendix
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2025
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  7. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I'm about to re-start my restoration project and I am glad I saved nearly every single piece I took off the truck. It'll be so much cheaper to restore a lot of the parts or re-create them vs buying new or even decent used.
     
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  8. sbaumann14

    sbaumann14 Road Train Member

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    No. Did bull gear 2 yrs ago
     
  9. Joyce's Volvo

    Joyce's Volvo Light Load Member

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    Buying an older truck is not a crime, it’s what truck you need to do the work. Older trucks has pros and cons, usually cheaper to buy, lot of mileage, rust here and there, also some parts are harder to find ( mostly dealer parts ). I run a 91 W/S with 3406 cat , 13 speed with 3.90 , for my purpose and I couldn’t be more pleased. Fortunately, I can do most mechanical work that’s needed and so far , all has been what I consider as minor. I gave it a through look before I bought but, for the price I was satisfied I could come out better with it than other newer ones that I had inspected. The plus was no electronic engine, a $50.00 sensor , time you get a read out could cost $400.00 with parts and labor. Most dealer cab parts for this model are obsolete in 2002 however, they’re several salvage yards around that by good chance have these parts on hand. Bearings ,u- joints, brake components, tubing, hose and other common maintenance items are easily available. The big cost is labor. But I’m fortunate that I can do most repairs myself and if you’re a O/ O you need to be able to do at least the simpler , brakes components, wheel seals,u- joints, bearings and steer axle components. These things aren’t that hard , all it takes is help from one that knows and the want to learn. I’ve seen a many of newer trucks by the road and a tec with a computer hook up trying to figgier out where the problem is. A newer truck is not freed from break downs , payments go right on if you have to go that route to buy but , smaller payments are easier than big ones . The batteries are down in my “crystal ball “ so I can’t see the future and I wouldn’t want to get in a bind . New and improved isn’t always better. Don’t let the age of a truck be the main reason to make a decision, l have seen older ones look much better than newer for my purposes , you seem to be looking at the big picture and have your head on straight. K/W and Pete keeps cab parts on hand longer than other manufacturers , but other trucks haul freight just the same , the only major difference is the cab, Eaton,Rockwell now meritor, fuller, spicer, and others make the components for most trucks. You’ll find these same transmissions and axles in a number of different trucks, suspension will differ some what. You’re the one doing the paying so get what you’re comfortable with, cosmetics don’t make it more dependable. You’re the one that it needs to impress!
     
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