The journey begins - purchased a truck.
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by blairandgretchen, Dec 10, 2014.
Page 21 of 565
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Hey Blair, fogline has a Bco version of their software with a 30 day free trial. It's pretty cool and cheap compared to 20 bucks a month.
http://bcobiz.com/bcobiz_manager.htmblairandgretchen Thanks this. -
I have found my scanguage to be about 1-1.7 higher in MPG than the real fill up MPG that I calculate with miles driven divided by the gallons it took to refill. It is useful to use the boost gage though. My setup on it is mph, rpm, instant mpg and boost. Between those four you should be maximizing your fuel economy by keeping your boost below 10Psi-15Psi, shifting at the right RPM's etc
RANGER68, Lepton1 and blairandgretchen Thank this. -
stwik, Oxbow, Big_D409 and 1 other person Thank this.
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Also, use a gps to see your actual speed. In the advanced settings you can adjust the scangauge speed to match.
If you do those 2 things, your scangauge avg mpg should be well within 1% of actual. -
I get weekly monthly yearly profit/loss reports fuel reports all expense reports broke down Revenue reports.
Its been completely reworked and more added changed fixed updated fairly regularly. (Two updates this month took about 2 min each update)
Added in driver profiles if more than one single or multiple trucks. Maintenance reports auto hauler stuff.
Anyways just a suggestion and just one price then done no monthly subscription.fortycalglock and blairandgretchen Thank this. -
However, a word of caution about expressing how much boost is needed. When you say 10-15 psi that can mean vastly different things depending on your particular turbo. I found that out when I was first learning how to drive according to boost, when I read an article put out by Pittsburgh Power that talked about how you could be more efficient without cruise control in rolling hills. They said you should use 28 psi to start the hill and never let it get over 28 psi as you climbed.
28 psi on my brother's truck was maximum boost. So I tried that and got disappointing mpg on the run from OKC to St. Louis up I-44.
The NEXT article then described the author's setup as having 56 psi as maximum boost. "AH HAH!"
From that point on I understood that I should keep boost at or below 50% of maximum boost. THAT made all the difference.Blue jeans, Tyreman, Grijon and 2 others Thank this. -
Thanks for all the input - some things for me to check out.
Schaeffer Oil
Progress on three fronts today. Fed Ex rang to ask if I would be home to accept a delivery. This means that - a) Schaeffer Oil approved my credit application, b) Shipped the order I had placed, and c) was bringing me work.
I'd spied another filter on the oil cooler next to the oil filter that I didn't understand, so I took a picture of it, asked the machine shop, learned it is a coolant filter. Off to Fleet Pride to ask for a 'water separator'. Guy behind counter says "OK, you want a diesel filter with a water separator", "No, I said, it's the one on the oil cooler" . . . Blank looks. I pull out picture. AAAHHH. At this point I throw my hands up in the air and tell him it's my first truck and I'm going to be their newest dumbest customer for a while. All good.
Machine shop has agreed to SHOW me how to do an oil change and lube. Good stuff. I arrive at 1.30pm. He says "They give us 1.5 hours to do a full service". At 4 pm we're out the door, and haven't hit any of the zerks. Learning experience. Did manage to drop oil, change oil and coolant filter, fuel filter, refill with oil, check gearbox and rear end oil levels, and locate all zerks for greasing. The rear ends are a little low, so off to buy some rear end oil this morning and return to finish the job.
The coolant filter on the oil cooler has a tap to shut off the coolant. SEIZED. Attempted to drop the filter and quickly replace new one. Nice hot coolant, dropped gasket in oil pan, find another pan to catch coolant, mop oil out of coolant with paper towels, find gasket in oil pan, replace filter, refill coolant. Need to get that tap/bolt/shutoff thingy replaced/repaired. I can see a few things to make the process faster and easier, it'll take me a couple of tries, I'm sure. Yeah, I know - I could go and pay the $2-300 at a shop to have it done, but it wouldn't teach me anything.
Looks like coolant filter on oil cooler hadn't been off for a while, and had a bit of gunk in it. Also some at the top of the coolant overflow tank, but it has had a new oil cooler in the last year, so I'm hoping it's just residue left over from the last one going out. Pulled a sample mid stream (oil), and sent off for testing last night.
Dropped off a credit application at MHC - see how that goes. Figure it's a good idea to establish some business credit early on in the piece.
Emails back and forth yesterday gave a confirmation for orientation the week of the 16th. Now, off to find some rear end oil and back down to the shop (it's warmer inside his shop than mine!) -
Check the coolant nitrate level(test strips). Very important to keep from pitting liners. The goon on the filter may be from mixed red and green antifreeze.
stwik, Oxbow and blairandgretchen Thank this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 21 of 565