INSTALLING A POWER INVERTER (Pictures)

Discussion in 'Trucking Electronics, Gadgets and Software Forum' started by Pur48Ted, Mar 23, 2009.

  1. Pur48Ted

    Pur48Ted Road Train Member

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    Battery cable (or Welding cable) soldered into copper lugs.
    Be sure to use solder flux and plenty of solder.
    I always "fill" the lug with molten solder and then push cable into it while HOT.
    It might be necessary to keep heat applied for a few seconds to make sure the solder impregnates the cable.

    BE SURE to keep from moving the cable or lug for several minutes until the solder has cooled.
    DO NOT cool the lug with water.

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    I always have used this type of "Quick Connect" and installed it under the bunk; between the battery and inverter.
    You can buy these at NAPA Auto Parts stores. This one is larger than needed, because when I went to purchase one, the NAPA store didn't have a smaller one in stock.

    These "disassemble" by inserting a flat screw driver between the "catch" and the contact. Then remove the contact from the unit.

    AFTER your solder has cooled, you can re-install them by pushing them into the unit.

    MAKE SURE you follow "polarization".
    Once you have the "Quick Connect" installed, it will only snap together ONE WAY, so if you have your polarity correct when you first put it together, it will ALWAYS be correct.




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    In the absence of RED shrink tubing, I have always used RED zip ties to mark polarity.

    The reason the inverter end is RED wire and the battery end is BLACK wire is when I originally constructed this, all I could buy was RED battery cable.
    I have had to replace the battery end twice and have discovered that WELDING CABLE is about 40% cheaper than battery cable, and is by far a superior product; more flexible than battery cable.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2009
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  3. Pur48Ted

    Pur48Ted Road Train Member

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    If there isn't already a hole in the floor under the bunk, you need to drill at least a 1" hole. A "throw-away" 1" wood bit works good on aluminum flooring.


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    FIRST: Hook the POS cable to the POS terminal CLOSEST to the truck. NOTE: the RED zip-ties marking polarity.



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    NEXT: hook the NEG cable to the battery post FURTHEST from the truck.

    ALWAYS hook the NEG cable LAST, or unhook the NEG cable FIRST.
    The same applies for the INVERTER end of the cables.
     
  4. EmersonSC

    EmersonSC Light Load Member

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    where did you mount the inverter? how? How much cable in length did you need? where is a good place to get the welding cable?
     
  5. Pur48Ted

    Pur48Ted Road Train Member

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    1. Under the bed
    2. It has screw holes for mounting, but I have never used them. Mine just "floats"
    3. You will have to measure the cable needed for your own particular application.
    4. Any welding supply store. Home Depot and Menards usually DOESN'T carry it.
     
  6. rookietrucker

    rookietrucker Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    From my experience in the military from installing radios and comsec equipment. Anything that has a diesel motor, shakes and vibrates. Which in turn causes wear on the wires and will lead to a short or a fire. If anybody cuts a hole in metal as the view in this picture. Please use a rubber grommet insert to protect the wires from a possible hazard.

     
  7. Ken

    Ken Couch Commander

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    Along that line of thinking, wouldn't it be prudent to put a fuse/breaker near the battery in case you have a break or short? That would at least minimize the possibility of doing some unintentional welding.. :biggrin_25525:
     
  8. rookietrucker

    rookietrucker Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    welding, more like a melt down to nothing but the rims and chasis, LoL. Fuse link will help but putting a $2 grommet is even better.
     
  9. Pur48Ted

    Pur48Ted Road Train Member

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    Exactly. In my case, I used Silicone (post photo)
     
  10. Pur48Ted

    Pur48Ted Road Train Member

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    I have never used a "fuse/breaker". The only problems I have had is from salt getting into the cable (if the battery isn't totally covered) and a small nick in the insulation from road debris.
    All Inverters have internal fuses that will blow if there is a short.
    Try replacing 20 30amp spade fuses sometime.
    Not cheap buying 20 "sets" of fuses to get the proper number. LOL
     
  11. Scarecrow03

    Scarecrow03 Road Train Member

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    I too have used silicone for wiring an inverter. It worked just fine, and it created a better (imho) seal than a grommet would.
     
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