I am trying to trace an air leak
Its 2009 kw t660
When i I push the tractor brake valve sometimes "P" on the dash still on and i clearly hear leak behind the dash . Takes several times to pull out and push in for sign to disappear and stop hearing the leak . Later on i pulled into rest area to check it and when i stopped i pulled only trailer brakes out and tractor left pushed , shut the truck down and heard some leak still , disassembled dash and noticed where its leaking ( marked tractor brakes ) , as soon as i i pulled out tractor brakes - it stopped . Can anyone advise whether its part that leaks has to be replaced or its its indicates that there is somewhere else leak . I circled the part in yellow
Air leak behind panel
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by pavrom, Apr 25, 2020.
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You should be able to unplug the 2 wires and the sensor should just screw out with a wrench. At least that's how mine work.
Pump your air pressure down before you take it out.Last edited: Apr 25, 2020
Dave_in_AZ and pavrom Thank this. -
Kinda hard to tell but it looks like a pressure switch.
whoopNride Thanks this. -
Found a picture. This is what mine looks like once you get it out. $15 each. I have 5 or 6 in my truck, I carry a spare just in case.
Yours look different, but should screw out.Dave_in_AZ and pavrom Thank this. -
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Sometimes the buttons on parking brake leaks, before they go bad. Try moving the buttons back and forth, up and down, after you push them in. Any difference in the leak, Parking brake valves on its way out. As far as the other leaks, welcome to my world. The quick connects on everything seem to go bad. Sometimes a fresh cut on the air lines, and re install, fixes it. Otherwise a perfectly good switch, for fifth wheel, or differential locks,dump valve, has to be replaced. Because of the quick connect. I’d like to do away with them. Thread a fitting into their place, add a compression fitting. Easier/ Quicker to just change the switches.
pavrom Thanks this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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Pull the end of the quick connect out with some needle nose pliars. Take a dental pick (paper clip will work) and dig the oring out. Replace with a new one, put end back. I have had real good luck repairing them instead of replacing valve
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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