Clutch R&R questions

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by God prefers Diesels, Dec 3, 2020.

  1. Inderjit

    Inderjit Heavy Load Member

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    There is a stamped steel spacer that goes in the pilot bearing bore in front of the pilot bearing.
    Don't forget it.
     
  2. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    I see what you're talking about, but my installation kit didn't come with one. Am I supposed to replace it?
     
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  3. Inderjit

    Inderjit Heavy Load Member

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    It can be reused.
     
  4. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    Okay. So if it stayed stuck in there, just leave it? Also, you are talking about the one stuck in the end of the crank?
     
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  5. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    Yes and yes. If they fall out i stick it in with grease. It just stops the pilot bearing from sliding in all the way to the crank
     
  6. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    Ahh, okay. Thanks.
     
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  7. black_dog106

    black_dog106 Road Train Member

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  8. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    And now converted into an installation tool. I set the protrusion to the same depth as the old seal. Measuring on three sides, I've got 16mm on two sides, and 16.5mm on one side. Good enough? Or does it need to be perfect?

    Also, I read somewhere to use a 10% soap and water mixture to coat the rubber outside part of the seal. I completely forgot, and used a light coating of engine oil. Does it matter?
    20201207_173424.jpg 20201207_174750.jpg
     
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  9. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I don’t remember a spacer on mine at all. Hmmmm. I put a new flywheel, everything was the same. Hopes it’ll be ok!
     
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  10. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    .5 MM is pretty close. You could keep messing with it and find yourself worse off. Never heard of soapy water believe the book says install dry.
    After the flywheel is installed you can run the engine. Bump the RPM up to about 1500 for a half hour. No leaks? Carry on.
    When trying to find leaks some times I stick a rag in the blow tube for a few minutes. Trying to simulate crankcase pressure under load. It helps some times but it is a bit of a judgement call when to say when. I have never had a problem doing that be you are at your own risk.