Cat 3406e Weak Engine Brake

You might be light even at that estimate. Long list of stuff to round up if it wasn’t built as a Brakesaver engine. The retarder housing, retarder and control valve. Brakesaver flywheel, not all of them will work. Brakesaver oil cooler, and all the plumbing that goes with the Brakesaver oil pan. Valve in the cab and the air lines down to the control valve. Clutch linkage alterations. And the truck may not have enough rad in it. Brakesaver engines usually got an extra row in the rad to support the bigger oil cooler. I’m sure I’m missing a few things but you’d throw a bushel of cash at what’s there already. Border on Cost Prohibitive I’m thinking, depending how bad you want it I guess.

 

It would make you poop your pants if you started pricing everything I know that... the 1 that's in the project truck Iam building now I bought back a truck I laid over and used the motor with the brake saver I had in that truck .. I had to buy the bigger radiator and lines like you mentioned but it needed a radiator reguardless

 

You had the perfect headstart. As long as you start with a Brakesaver engine, even if it’s blown up, you have all or most of the brake to swap over. Any 3406 will do from there. With a Brakesaver truck as well you have the chassis stuff for the installation too. You sound like me. I’ve got one the boys call the Johnny Cash Kenworth. That one is a fine ‘90,’94,95’97 Kenworth truck. Probably the nicest one I own. Sounds like you don’t mind a little nuttin’ and boltin’ in the back yard either.

 

The reason I bought back this lay over is mostly because it had a brake saver motor and the fact I wanted the 2 box's behind the motor.. it was a 86 that I was pretty fond of ..I been looking for along time for a builder truck finally found a 85 a couple years ago so it's going be a 85..86.. 05 with some various other years mixed in
I would rather build one than drive one anymore... I like wrenching on them as long as there no pressure to get it going immediately
I actually find it relaxing

 

Those were good years for trucks. Up until 2000 I drove an ‘85 Freightliner with a 3408 and 6+4. Had 4+4, 5+4 and 6+4’s over the years. I prefer the compounds. My first truck had a 4+4. I parked mine when Covid hit to keep everybody else going. To be honest I’ve been just as happy down in the shop driving my wrench-bender berserk. That one might not have me in it when it goes back out.

 

This is a 6+4 .. I cut the 85 and coupled a cut off with a set of Eaton 3:36s and stretched it to 280".. IDK if that was smart But I did it

 

Hope you’ve got re-entry burn resistant paint for it. Mine ran 65mph at 1600, with 4:33’s and metric 22.5’s. You should get a speedo reads in Mach.

 

Oh I don't think it's gonna be a big truck..like the chicken haulers roll with ...the sweet spot on that motor was the 1550 to 1700 rpm range..the truck it came out of I was running on tall 24"s and 3:70s I was happy with that set up 85 mph was about were everything fell together but maxed out .. Iam kinda worried I over did it and gonna loose my torque band now .. I wasn't shooting for triple digits when I did it

 

Only thing I would think is you’ll have to get both levers back before you fuel it right up on grades. Shouldn’t yard on either one of them too hard in OD anyway. You’re working with a 1400ft/lb rated main and 1200ft/lb a-box. I was pulling trains with an 8 that was wicked up pretty good, they’d get pretty hot if I put lots of manifold to it with both levers ahead. I only had to get the a-box back in direct and I could pressure it right up, but you’re packing way more gear in the back. I had coolers on both, but it was shocking how fast they’d get hot torqued up with both over.

 

Even on the truck I learned on with a 5 and 4 and 318, the boss told me to alternate OD between boxes for that reason. Of course with that engine I really didn't have to worry about running direct and overdrive very often.