Can someone explain a mechanical neck spitting you out…? I got the hydraulic covered…. Just never seen a mechanical in action…….
P.S. I don’t get out much……..
What if it Snows?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Dave_in_AZ, Mar 19, 2018.
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Hooking up is just the same process in reverse. The final move picks the load off the ground as the rollers on the front of the neck roll up the ramps and then on to the fifth wheel. There is a lot of pressure on rears, gears, etc. as the rollers roll up the ramps. When it is slick out this pressure can overcome traction and spit the tractor back out away from the neck.
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Tacoma Screw Products | 5/8\x22-11 x 2\x22 Flange Cap Screws — SAE J429 / IFI-111 Grade 8, Phosphate & Oil, 25/PKG
That's a link to 2 inch long bolts, but probably only need 1.5 inch.
Here is a link to the nuts you want. They are a 100% steel lock nut, DO NOT use washers of ANY type with these nuts. Tighten them down with an impact if you can get one into where they are at... Otherwise use as big of a cheater as you can manage.
Tacoma Screw Products | 5/8\x22-11 Flange Lock Nuts — Grade G ASME B18.16.6, Phosphate & Oil, Coarse, 25/PKG
These are the EXACT bolts and nuts I've used when I've stretched truck frames or added a butt plate to a frame so a pintle hitch could be added to pull a pup. Yes they are expensive... But they are worth every penny... Nuts should only be used once, if you remove them use new nuts.
Edit: Upon further review of your photo and reading exactly how a mechanical neck works... I would go up to 3/4... But still black phos and oil, flanged bolts and that style of lock nut.Last edited: May 6, 2022
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