Hey folks,
Rookie question. How do you check and remove these circuits on a 96 FLD? I unscrewed the nut but nothing seemed to want to move and I don’t want to bust anything.
I’m troubleshooting why my AC compressor / dryer won’t turn on. It won’t turn on for either AC mode or defrost mode. I have cleaned and replaced the connections going to the dryer/condenser and also the ground on the AC compressor.
I thought perhaps low on 134 but when I plugged in the hose yesterday the pressure shot right up to 100 psi. But the compressor wasn’t running because I can’t get it to turn on.
AC trouble - How do you check this circuit?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Jed2009, Jun 14, 2022.
Page 1 of 3
-
Attached Files:
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
There are a number of reasons why your compressor will not turn on. You can have refrigerant in there and if it's not enough or too much the compressor won't run. It has to be exactly the right amount.
With the engine off you can manually put 12 volts directly to the compressor and see if your clutches lock up. If you have bad high or low pressure switches your compressor won't come on.
Also that year truck has a control module that is below where the circuit breakers are. At least mine is a 95 and I had that module on there. Some of the later trucks had them on the firewall I think but you'd have to look into your system to see what you have but that module controls the fan circuit/ AC and it's problematic they often go bad. There also is a temperature probe in the cab that can go bad and cause problems.
I think to get to the whole circuit breaker you have to take that centerpiece off that has all the markings for which breaker is which.
I would look into the wiring diagram but going from memory, and it's been a few years, I think the electricity first goes to the high pressure switch so if you turn your AC on and you test the wiring there you can see if you're getting electricity from the cab.
I would double check that with your wiring diagram.Keepforgettingmypassword, Jed2009 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
The plastic just a cover for the breakers. No need to take it off to test with a test light. Like Dino said, I’d try jumping the pressure switch. Unplug it from dryer, jump the plug. See if it turns on. If so, low side of switch is bad. Replace switch. The other switch on drier with pigtail is fan switch. Pressure switch doesn’t have pigtail. You can change switch without losing any Freon. I think there’s a constant power wire running from starter maybe? Cant remember. Follow the 2 wires from compressor, inspect for chafed/broken wires. I’d leave the fuse box alone. Unless necessary. I had one 3 prong breaker on my last Truck that the plug went bad. I had to twist one of the prongs and plug it in. It worked, Lol. Considering I’ve heard a lot of problems with Freightliner wiring, and haven had hardly any problems. I’d leave it alone. It’s a can of worms.
High Stepper, ProfessionalNoticer and Jed2009 Thank this. -
Freightliner wiring is pretty easu. Check power at thermistor first, then at low pressure switch. You can jump both to verify quickly
Rideandrepair and Jed2009 Thank this. -
Thanks fellas. With the high temps today I actually noticed that my fan is not turning on when the water temp reaches higher temps like it should. That suggests some sensor is bad. Could these two issues be related? If my fan is somehow not getting a signal to turn on - I know it needs to run to cool the AC compressor.
I picked up an “AC switch”, “Switch - Normal open”, and a “Fan Clutch Solenoid” on the way home. They gave me all of them to replace if the fan isn’t running when water temps get high. The AC compressor and condenser were new about a year ago.
I did put a test light to the circuit for the AC clutch and power and it lit up. Is that all y’all would suggest for testing those? I figured something was wrong because they were all lighting up even with the truck off. I literally know crap about electricity.
Dino - when you say manually put 12 volts on, what do you mean? With a multimeter or something?
When you guys say jump the switch what do you mean? Unplug connections and put a paper clip on?
I should be able to get the sensors on tomorrow. Thanks for the help!Last edited: Jun 14, 2022
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
These are the switches and sensors I ended up with. I think two are the ones you were talking about @Rideandrepair They can both be replaced without fear of Freon blasting out or anything?
Attached Files:
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
-
Rideandrepair and Jed2009 Thank this.
-
Grab a test light and test for power at the compressor. High pressure switch and low pressure switch.
You say you got power at the compressor. So there's either a ground problem or the compressor itself isn't completing the ground.Rideandrepair and Jed2009 Thank this. -
On the pressure switch I did notice the female connectors were a bit crispy and dried out, one of the wires was frayed. I cleaned the switch connectors and put on new female ends. Didn’t fix it but maybe the switch itself fried inside.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
I’d replace both on the drier. The drier has schrader fittings, you won’t lose any Freon. Just a slight poof when they pop off. If the problem still exists, keep the old ones for spares, or future diagnosis. Hold off on the solenoid for now. One thing at a time, so not to get lost in the process. Please update progress. Hope it’s not 100 degrees where your at.
Jed2009 Thanks this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 1 of 3