AC trouble - How do you check this circuit?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Jed2009, Jun 14, 2022.

  1. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    7FDB4526-8C65-4B1E-A075-4B8AE2E12527.png You can test the low pressure by jumping the plug with a paper clip. If it’s bad, jumping it will make the compressor engage. It’s to protect the compressor from running when Freon leaks out. Some people jump them when filling an empty system to speed things up. Bad practice. Best to put one can, 2 if needed to activate compressor when charging. It takes longer, but avoids damaging compressor. This is the switch I’m talking about. I still forget and get them confused. Lol. This one definitely controls low pressure, and high pressure, so running it too long jumped may blow a hose, if the high side of the switch is also bad. Pretty sure other one with pigtail is fan only. I think that’s how it works.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2022
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  3. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    Best way to speed things up is to rev the motor.

    You also get a better idea what your pressures are.

    Sticking with idle isn't the greatest idea.
     
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  4. Jed2009

    Jed2009 Light Load Member

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    Thanks fellas. I will replace these when I get home today and update. I’m in the Midwest so yes it’s been a scorcher. Undies and cutoff shirts for me (while INSIDE the truck of course) for now.

    You’re mentioning Freon maybe down the road. When I plugged in the basic $35 hose and can combo the other day the pressure shot up to 100+. The can maxed at 100. The compressor was not running of course. Engine was running at 900 rpm. Should this eliminate the low on Freon possibility though? I know pressures are only accurate with it running so I’m not sure on that one.
     
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  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Sounds like you have Freon in it. So I doubt being low is causing it not to work. You’ll find out when changing switches, if it’s under pressure. Little poof as they come off. If the fans not operating and engines getting too hot, fans a separate problem, the switch with pigtail only kicks it on when pressure gets too high on a/c. When it kicks fan on, the other switch should kick compressor off. I think that’s right. One pressure switch with low and high pressure settings. One fan switch with high and low settings. Those are the simple most common problems. Worth just changing, since they don’t last long anyways. The chances that both switches, and solenoid went bad all at once seem unlikely, if everything was working fine. The other stuff Dino mentioned, Temp cool probe and PCM in the fuse panel would be my next suspect. Don’t want to guess much more past the parts you have. Inspect all the wires from switches to compressor, and solenoid wires, Often a chafed wire, or almost chafed wire somewhere. You should just throw the 2 switches on now. A 7/16 wrench, even pliers is all that’s needed.
     
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  6. Jed2009

    Jed2009 Light Load Member

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    Alright update! I started off replacing the fan switch because the “low high” switch was not correct fit for the dryer. Didn’t help. Tried jumping plug for compressor. Nothing. Rewired a questionable butt connection from compressor sensor to dryer switch. Nothing. Went to swap the part that didn’t fit for the proper part that fits the dryer (“binary pressure switch”). Nothing.

    One last hunch. A month ago I had my park brake knob valve replaced so they removed dash panel. I thought maybe somehow something back there is loose and it has to do with the AC. Remove panel and boom… the part that didn’t fit the dryer, was sitting back there with a wire unplugged. Posted a pic. Plugged it in and the compressor turns on!!

    It was blowing ambient. I plugged in Freon and it was reading like 25 lbs. I ended up adding 42 oz of Freon until air blew cold and pipes were cold. The labels call for 55 oz but I didn’t want to overdo it and freeze anything or blow the can up. Should I add the final 12 oz can tomorrow? I couldn’t get pressure to go over 30 lbs. I was reading 40-50 is best?

    Thanks for the help everyone!!!

    PS…
    I am guessing y’all knew the red tape sensor was what it was. I just meant I was confused and thinking they gave me the wrong one. Assuming you know what it was the whole time, hehe. But it’s all good! I had time in the shop Friday afternoon reserved for this and now I can get an overhead done instead.

    943B7B6A-DF7A-4B1F-BD5F-8BBD81101C23.jpeg AFFF24D6-D994-4615-87C7-B78A217AC197.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2022
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  7. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    Low pressure isn't how you determine charge level. It's only used for diagnostic.

    High pressure is what you want.
     
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  8. Jed2009

    Jed2009 Light Load Member

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    Ah. So should I buy a hose set and plug it into the bigger diameter plug (high) and see what it reads?
     
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  9. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    you need a gauge set.. YES.

    The can gauge gets you NO WHERE. Specially since it's not accurate and does more harm then good by allowing air in to the system.
     
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  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I meant the fan switch and bianary switch. Never knew about the one in the dash. Learn something new every time, working on A/C. It’s good to know. No telling how many oz. of freons in it. Since it had pressure already, I wouldn’t add any more. It needs about half a can to engage it, initially. You had to have at least 5 or 6 oz. to begin with. Probably more, unless it has a leak, was already low, or you lost a lot changing parts. I’d say you have plenty in it, probably a bit too much. Too much will cause high pressure, and compressor clutch will cycle on and off a lot, fan will kick on while compressors off, till pressure drops. Then fan kicks off and compressor engages. As long as its not doing this short cycling while parked at high idle, I’d leave it alone. 30-40 on low side is good. Higher the outside temp and especially humidity, higher pressure will be. If it’s not short cycling, but still not cold enough,when it’s real hot outside, and/or compressors running constantly, never cycling off, It may be low. You can try adding a bit more. Not too much too fast. Can held upright only, not upside down, you’ll split the compressor open doing that. Add it slowly, till compressor cycles off, then stop. Watch the cycling process, compressor should stay on almost twice as long as it stays off, at least longer. Typically on for 50 seconds, off for 20 seconds is a good operation. Too much Freon, and it will stay off longer, and fan will run longer. It’s easy to overcharge it guessing this way. Sure fire way is to start from scratch, adding 5 cans, 60 oz. After putting hose on can, bleeding the air from the hose, just for a split second, hearing a bit as you’re hooking the hose up to the low side port. Check out Chris Fix on YouTube. He’s good at explaining vacuum, gauges, pressures, etc. in real clear simple terms. His videos are working on cars. Same procedure though using gauges. Glad it’s fixed.
     
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  11. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    You can get vacuum pump and gauges at Harbor Freight. Freon and nipple adapter at parts house like Napa or whatever. You'll be under $200 for everything.
     
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