You can test the low pressure by jumping the plug with a paper clip. If it’s bad, jumping it will make the compressor engage. It’s to protect the compressor from running when Freon leaks out. Some people jump them when filling an empty system to speed things up. Bad practice. Best to put one can, 2 if needed to activate compressor when charging. It takes longer, but avoids damaging compressor. This is the switch I’m talking about. I still forget and get them confused. Lol. This one definitely controls low pressure, and high pressure, so running it too long jumped may blow a hose, if the high side of the switch is also bad. Pretty sure other one with pigtail is fan only. I think that’s how it works.
AC trouble - How do you check this circuit?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Jed2009, Jun 14, 2022.
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Best way to speed things up is to rev the motor.
You also get a better idea what your pressures are.
Sticking with idle isn't the greatest idea.Jed2009 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Thanks fellas. I will replace these when I get home today and update. I’m in the Midwest so yes it’s been a scorcher. Undies and cutoff shirts for me (while INSIDE the truck of course) for now.
You’re mentioning Freon maybe down the road. When I plugged in the basic $35 hose and can combo the other day the pressure shot up to 100+. The can maxed at 100. The compressor was not running of course. Engine was running at 900 rpm. Should this eliminate the low on Freon possibility though? I know pressures are only accurate with it running so I’m not sure on that one.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Jed2009 Thanks this.
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Alright update! I started off replacing the fan switch because the “low high” switch was not correct fit for the dryer. Didn’t help. Tried jumping plug for compressor. Nothing. Rewired a questionable butt connection from compressor sensor to dryer switch. Nothing. Went to swap the part that didn’t fit for the proper part that fits the dryer (“binary pressure switch”). Nothing.
One last hunch. A month ago I had my park brake knob valve replaced so they removed dash panel. I thought maybe somehow something back there is loose and it has to do with the AC. Remove panel and boom… the part that didn’t fit the dryer, was sitting back there with a wire unplugged. Posted a pic. Plugged it in and the compressor turns on!!
It was blowing ambient. I plugged in Freon and it was reading like 25 lbs. I ended up adding 42 oz of Freon until air blew cold and pipes were cold. The labels call for 55 oz but I didn’t want to overdo it and freeze anything or blow the can up. Should I add the final 12 oz can tomorrow? I couldn’t get pressure to go over 30 lbs. I was reading 40-50 is best?
Thanks for the help everyone!!!
PS…
I am guessing y’all knew the red tape sensor was what it was. I just meant I was confused and thinking they gave me the wrong one. Assuming you know what it was the whole time, hehe. But it’s all good! I had time in the shop Friday afternoon reserved for this and now I can get an overhead done instead.
Last edited: Jun 15, 2022
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Low pressure isn't how you determine charge level. It's only used for diagnostic.
High pressure is what you want.Jed2009 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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The can gauge gets you NO WHERE. Specially since it's not accurate and does more harm then good by allowing air in to the system.Jed2009 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Jed2009 Thanks this.
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You can get vacuum pump and gauges at Harbor Freight. Freon and nipple adapter at parts house like Napa or whatever. You'll be under $200 for everything.
Jed2009 and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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