My opinion is you need to do both. Paccar's recommendation is to pull each air management sensor and clean EGR cooler every 80,000 miles on the EPA 10 MX. Different ways to go about the EGR cooler cleaning. Paccar has a kit and sells solution to do it on the truck. If you got this route make sure you get it done with the updated kit that includes adding an inline heater for heating the solution. Next option is to remove it and have it cleaned off engine. Removing EGR cooler on EPA 10 is time consuming. Company that cleans my DPF also cleans my EGR coolers. They flush them with the solution, then put them in a ultrasonic washer, dry them, then put in kiln overnight with DPF's. Makes for a very clean cooler. This is how I have my EPA 13 and 17's done because they are easy to remove. Other option is a Diesel Force cleaning. I had them do a demo for me. It won't perform miracles, but is very good if you do it as a yearly maintenance cleaning. I wanted to buy their product, but couldn't get boss to see the value. I attached the EPA10 maintenance recommendations.
Paccar no pulling power
Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by jmjfarms, Jan 5, 2020.
Page 4 of 7
-
Attached Files:
Another Canadian driver Thanks this. -
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Ok. So the mechanic has the truck and is going to put in a different ECM to see if that is the problem. If not then I'm going to have him clean the venturi and then I'll go through and clean all the sensors myself. Since the EGR cooler is difficult to remove I'm going to leave it for now. I will let you know what happens with all that. He's not going to do the ecm swap until next week so it'll be a bit. Thanks for you input and knowledge and maintenance recommendations.
Another Canadian driver Thanks this. -
Well the mechanic finally swapped the ecm with a known good ecm and the truck did the same thing. Power and proper boost for a short time and then it goes away. So now I'm going to check all the sensors you referenced and also am going to have the venturi removed and cleaned.
Another Canadian driver Thanks this. -
Well after two years I finally fixed it. Before checking all the sensors, I decided to physically clean the inside of the four tubes going to the three sensors. The two for the Delta Pressure, the one going to the sensor before turbine, and the one going to sensor after BPV. Now I've "checked" these all before, but what I did was spray brake cleaner through and blew air. I figured if I had fluid and air coming out the other end, it must be ok. Well it wasn't. The long tube going to the sensor before turbine had a blockage in it, even though it flowed fluid and air. I took a small cable and kept working it until I got it past the block from both ends. It took me about an hour to do it. Once I did I hooked the cable to a drill and spun it inside to clean it while I kept spraying brake fluid. Once it was clear, it was very noticeable the difference in the amount of brake cleaner coming out the other end compared to before. Put it all back together and took it for a drive and it worked great. I hope this thread may help others with the same issue. I want to thank you for your help with this and sending those documents over. I plan to share with as many people as I can.
Another Canadian driver, Magoo1968, QUALITYTRUCK and 4 others Thank this. -
Another Canadian driver, QUALITYTRUCK and GYPSY65 Thank this.
-
Well I spoke too soon. When I hooked up the truck to use it for the day, half way through the day it was back to low power on the top end just like before. So I had my mechanic pull the venturi and clean it. There was a layer of soot inside. I'm assuming that's normal but I told him to clean that and anything else he could access at that time. I'm doing that because it seems every time I clean the delta pressure tubes and sensor, the truck perks up. When I cleaned the sensor before turbine tube that was plugged, I also cleaned the delta pressure tubes as well as the tube for the sensor after BPV. Other than that I don't know what to do. I'm not very hopeful that this will fix the problem. In your opinion, what should be my next step?
Another Canadian driver Thanks this. -
Next thing would be a good road test monitoring Nox readings before catalyst during overrun and start crankshaft overview monitoring.
Another Canadian driver Thanks this. -
I'm not familiar with the terms overrun and start a crankshaft overview. Can you explain more?
Another Canadian driver Thanks this. -
Another Canadian driver Thanks this.
-
Overrun is simply when the wheels drive the engine. On most modern fuel injected vehicles, if you completely let off the accelerator pedal, the engine management goes to zero fueling and wheels drive the engine. This strategy can help with diagnostics. Once the Nox sensor is in operation, you can monitor engine out Nox in PPM. In overun since there is zero fueling, if Nox is over 10 PPM after 8-10 seconds of coasting and Nox sensor is known good, it can be concluded that there is unintended fueling from leaky injector(s). Now finding the culprit.
In DAVIE, you can do monitor sets and record certain parameters and then view your recording. So basically after the road test, I run a crankshaft rotation overview monitor with truck idling for 5 minutes. Then I analyze the data in graph form. First is delta engine speed for each cylinder which represents in rpm the difference in engine speed between two succeeding cylinders. RPM should be +/- 3 RPM for each cylinder. Next is checking the difference of acceleration of each individual cylinder during power stroke in micro seconds. Slower could be lack of fueling, higher accel rate excess fuel. Last I compare normalized engine speeds. This shows in RPM "normal" change of speed for a specific part of the combustion event. When all six cylinders are graphed, you can see if a certain cylinder isn't like the others. Now, none of this is a "silver" bullet to find the exact issue but a series of test to help pinpoint a issue. Mechanical engine problems can cause similar results in tests. Anyone that thinks as a technician that computer tells us the problem is greatly uninformed. If you need more info ask away. Also with common rail injectors, I have found after 600,000 miles it is best to just replace as set vs 1 at a time.Magoo1968, RockinChair, Another Canadian driver and 3 others Thank this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 4 of 7