12.7 Series 60- Issues after rebuild

Are you saying the engine that is in the truck now sits lower in the rear than the other engine?

Here's what to do. Google dtna connect. That will take you to Freightliner.

I don't remember what exactly you have to do but follow the instructions you may have to send your owner's card in I don't remember but just follow the instructions and you'll be able to get set up on dtna connect. It may take a week or a few days I don't remember perhaps they have a quicker way now.

That will give you the schematics for everything not only on a freightliner, but for what is exactly on your Freightliner.

When you are granted access you will be able to go to the motor mount detail and you can see what is supposed to be there from the factory.

The second thing to do is get a hold of that drive shaft shop. You have to know if they had to change the adjustment on the carrier bearing to adjust the Driveline angles.

If they had to change that your engine is not sitting the way it was. When you swap the same engine, you end up with identical engine and Driveline angles.

That will tell you if you are not sitting correctly. That is the best way to track this down because those angles do not lie.

I can only tell you that on my 95, that series 60 engine had shims.

Like I said get set up with dtna connect and you'll be able to see exactly what's supposed to be there.

 

Like I said verify that with the drive shaft shop because that will tell you if your engine is not sitting correctly.

Then get dtna connect and find out what's supposed to be there.

If I were you I would get to the bottom of this sooner rather than later. I don't know aside from drive shaft angles what the effect of not sitting properly is but your fan may not even cool your engine right you may be in a situation something may bump the frame I don't know but I would take a really good look at that and I would fix that as soon as possible, if it is not correct.

Here are the spacers that were on my engine.

 

The bolts are common problems. Mine had the same problems Fan has unused holes, if one or more bolts broken off, go to next set of holes. Should have 6 bolts total. There’s 10 threaded holes in cover available. Preferably 4 together near top, and 2 close to the pully. The alternator bolts break, usually due to a bad front cover(s). Hole gets wallowed out. The official Detroit fix involves drilling the hole out, and installing a solid bushing, or 2 bushings at each side of the cover. New bolts fit right. They fit loosely from original, the holes larger than the bolt. Once it gets loose, it rocks and eventually wallows the hole out. Inspect cover holes. If still round, new bolts kept tight should fix the problem. Some claim a bad damper caused the bolts to break. It’s definitely from vibration, and a bad design. They were known to break on almost new fleet Trucks. Thus the fix. The actual upgrade kit with bushings is no longer available from what I’ve been told. No problem standard bushings and grade 8 6” bolts are available at TSC. Dinos 95 had MM shims. My 2000 doesn’t. Don’t know about 97. Dealer will know using vin and catalog parts list/pictures. Those MM look good. I’m looking at mine now, just to make sure. Looks exactly the same. They’re definitely installed correctly.

 

Joey I would recommend to you that if you're not exactly sure what you're looking for on that engine just take it to someone and have them really look it over.

If these guys skipped putting things together or they left bolts out where they're loose you're going to have a problem somewhere. If that fan came off that would have sailed right through your radiator.

I'm really sorry you went through all this but at the very least you should go around that whole complete entire engine and make sure your starter bolts are tight make sure your oil cooler bolts are tight make sure that your turbo is tight just have to go over everything and like I said if not whatever you pay someone to do it is well worth while.

I would also get down underneath of that truck and take a really good look at where the transmission joins the engine and make sure you don't have any space. Not a bad idea to retorque them either..

Anything that you are not sure of use a torque wrench.

 

So I took pictures of mine. Looks like some idiot ( Me ) left the Drivers side MM loose. I’ve been meaning to check it, Been feeling movement of shifter when starting from a stop, thought maybe the oil leak ruined it. Motor mounts are 3 yrs. old. It’s good just loose. When they’re wore out, there’s usually a gap on bottom between washer and frame. You can easily feel it and move it. Same goes for the cab mounts. Any slop I’d space on the bottom, they’re wore out.

 

My fan did come completely off once. So did the whole a/c bracket once. Both times no damage. Here’s my fan now with new (used) front inner and outer covers. Bolt holes are still good. Been staying tight. I check the ac bracket bolts regularly. Once they get loose, it starts rocking, wallows holes and snaps bolts. Fan needs 6 bolts, preferably in these locations. They need to be real tight.