What is accepted battery draw down?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Keepforgettingmypassword, Nov 1, 2022.

  1. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    It's not the batteries. You have a major ground disconnected.
     
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  3. Keepforgettingmypassword

    Keepforgettingmypassword Heavy Load Member

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  4. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    Like I outlined in post #18 above.
     
  5. roddy55

    roddy55 Bobtail Member

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    Your dealing with very high currents be careful!!!!! Remove rings, chains and jewelry wear safety glasses around batteries.
    Its not hard to diagnose, just test and eliminate one circuit at a time.
    You need couple simple tools:
    12 volt automotive test light (get a quality lite with long ground wire and good ground clamp).
    Automotive jumper cables for checking grounds between cab, chassis and batteries.
    Working multimeter.
    1st. Trace all of battery cables from batteries to starter and to chassis. Be sure they are clean, tight and look good.

    2nd.
    Find ground cable between cab / sleeper and chassis or battery. Take apart, clean and inspect.
    With engine off; Turn on loads to cause light problems.
    Check chassis ground between cab and engine and or chassis with test lamp. If lamp lights you have found problem.
    Use jumper cables to provide path to ground. If this fixes problem you will have to find open ground wires or fabricate new wires.

    If not keep trouble shooting...
    Somewhere in the cab and sleeper there will be common ground post(s) where all the ground wires are connected to a stud or buss bar.
    Use test lamp between common ground and negative battery post. If test lamp is on, you have found problem, Use jumper cables to provide ground.
    Re test.

    Keep going, testing each subsystem until you find the problem.

    The way you describe it's a ground problem. It is possible the problem is on positive side of wiring, same procedure's EXCEPT do not use jumpers!
    Disconnect batteries, clean and check connections between fuse panel(s) and batteries.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2022
  6. Keepforgettingmypassword

    Keepforgettingmypassword Heavy Load Member

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    @lilillill @roddy55

    Thanks today is my 16 year anniversy. I'll get on it first thing in the am. Taking the ring off today may cause a issues ...lol.
    Thank you both. Will update tommrow.
     
    86scotty and lilillill Thank this.
  7. Keepforgettingmypassword

    Keepforgettingmypassword Heavy Load Member

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    Ok I got all the grounds that I know of cleaned and properly working. The charge is back to 14.2- 14.3. And the bunk lights are no longer flashing.

    Now when I turn the main power back on I have to leave it on for about a hour or so before the dash comes to life. And sometimes it comes back to life instantly. I replaced the pndb on june 16th. I'm thinking I have to replace it again.
    Is there something between the kill switch and the power box?
     
  8. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    You're working on a Cascadia, correct?

    This TSB says there is a Mega Fuse Junction Box on the frame. That probably is in the circuit between the cutoff switch and the PNDB.

    https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10039612-4715.pdf


    This TSB shows an updated PNDB for loose fuses. Did you install the updated version?

    https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10166800-0001.pdf

    Check the fuse for the instrument cluster. Does it have power when the cluster fails to start up? Is there a relay powering that circuit that's possibly going bad?
     
  9. Keepforgettingmypassword

    Keepforgettingmypassword Heavy Load Member

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    Thanks for this post. Where could I find such a well described manual? I can't seem to find one for this truck in particular,?

    I have some weird going on. I know every one said check and or clean the grounds. I did do this and the truck is still doing to same thing.
    I checked all the PNDB boxes as well.

    Unless freight liner runs a positive ground, I do have a serious issuse. Today I again disconnected all the negative batteries from the post. As well as from one of the ground post. I put the gator clip on the ground post then touched the light end the the negative battery post and it lit up green. When turned around it lit up red. This is telling me I have a live wire touching the frame or a larger enough ground wire to back feed to the frame. I'm not trying to just randomly start ripping zip ties off. Are there any know trouble spots where I could start looking?
     
  10. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    I’m not familiar with a Cascadia but my advice would be to start looking where wires are bundled and tied to the frame. My FLD had issues and it was where they had stuff bundled where it passed thru a crossmember. My last 579 had issues and it was where they had wires bundled and cinched tight on a bracket that came off the frame. The factories tie stuff up way too tight and don’t leave any slack at all it seems.
     
  11. Keepforgettingmypassword

    Keepforgettingmypassword Heavy Load Member

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    Does any one know how many ground are on this thing? 2016 dd13. I found 3 negitive to frame grounds. But I must have missed one.?
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2022
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