Ran into a slight issue at a quick lube , thoughts ?

This is from Davco regarding their fuel/water separators.
Extended Filter Life
Change the filter only when the fuel reaches the black band on the filter wrap. As the fuel rises inside the filter cover, the vapor pressure relief valve on the cap equalizes pressure and allows more of the filter media to be used.

The color of the fuel and the filter media is not an indication of when to change the filter as there is still unused media under the filter wrap.

Weekly water drains 1. Turn off the engine and remove the vent cap. 2. Place a suitable container under the Fuel Pro and open the drain valve. 3. Collected water will flow into the container. When fuel begins to flow out the drain, close the drain valve. Drain the least amount of fuel as possible. 4. Install the vent cap and tighten it by hand until it clicks. 5. Start the engine and raise the RPM for one minute to purge the air from the system.

 

I replace all three filters and change the oil (rotella t4) every 10000-12000 miles at home. I lose some money here because it could go longer between changes but I use dino oil instead of synthetic and want to get this isx15 to 1 million miles. Start changing your own oil and filters if you have a place to do it because so many of those techs don't give a crap about your equipment. Countless horror stories.

Feel free to post what shop it was because that's ######## for them to tell you that.

 

Curious about your rationale for dino and not syn. Full syn is superior (reduced wear and friction) even after taking out the longer drain intervals from the equation.. Also see post 2 above.

 

Got advice from a diesel mechanic I trust saying if I used dino and changed it very often it would help with the soot build up ISX15s are supposed to have. I change all three filters at every oil change because it just seems like good practice to keep a truck maintained for as long as possible.
I read post two, learn something new everyday. Still going to change out all three though. It's just part of my maintenance schedule now. Like changing the air dryer, engine air filter, IMAPS sensor (or at least used to they went way up in price), cleaning the 7th, etc every January.

I'm probably losing a little money doing it this way but my 2017 t680 is paid off and I want to get the absolute most milage out of it that I can.

 

I don't think that will help. I can't distinguish the water and the fuel inside the filter. But if you get a bad fuel the only solution is to change the filter. Maybe multiple times. I don't change it at PM's, only when it's necessary.

 

Technically oil never wears out, dino or syn. The additives deplete and the oil gets contaminated from byproducts of combustion. One of those is soot as you mention. Ever looked into or considered a centrifuge filter? Spinner II (one brand of centrifuge type) filters to a much smaller size. Some newer engines have the centrifuge option as part of a module on the side of the engine.

Spinner II centrifuges remove both large contaminants and ultra-fine particles as small as one-tenth of a micron.

According to the SAE, particles as small as 4 microns can cause up to 77% of engine wear.
Full-flow filters (or the full-flow portion of a combination filter) typically trap debris 30 microns or larger, while bypass filters (or the bypass portion of a combination filter) capture contaminants down to 10 microns in size.

 

So you do Oil Analysis every 5 to 6k?

 

Do it your #### self slacker.
Takes me 5 min tops, and I don't even have to get under the truck.
I carry the wrench and 3 spare 7 micron filters. Since I use 7 micron filters in the water sep, I only change the engine fuel filter once every 100K.

 

LMAO I just drain about 3 oz at the pumps with it running. No removing caps or anything.