drive away companies

Ok, sorry for my slow reply---i was busy, plus my mental state is not that good but that's neither here nor there.

Since you had a hotshot, then you probably know that for hottshotting or driveaway or any IC deal, then minimizing deadhead is one of the keys to sucess. So, i would suggest contracting to more than one company---this way the possiblities for loads and to minimize DH is much greater. But don't contract to too many companies because you don't want to overbook yourself, then you can't give good service to anyone and then your customers(the companies you contract to) won't be happy.

Truckmovers does have quite a bit of trucks to be moved. That, in conjunction with maybe contracting to one or 2 additional companies should keep you very busy to the point where you can and will make decent bread provided you're willing to stay out there and drive.

Another thing i thought of was that i felt that around or under 300 miles deadhead per week would be acceptable, provided that it would payoff in the longrun, in other words after all expenses of deadheading, what would my profit be? If i worked a "normal" local job, then i would probably be commuting around 300 miles per week. So, if by deadheading it put me in a more favorable location(as you know, it's funny how the week can go based on the first load you run, which leads to another one etc. etc.....), then it would be and often was, worth it.

a) i feel a minivan or smaller pickup would probably be best as your tow car. AND YOU NEED A TOW CAR or else it won't work financially. However, i did it with a compact car that i was able to sleep in---some of the seats were removed. And it worked out ok. Hotels are do-able, but this cuts into the profit as you proabably know.

b) don't be afraid to stock up on different types of hitches, chains, ubolts etc. But as you go on you'll get a better feel for what you need. This is one reason why the pickup or van may be the better choice---so you can carry all the junk you need, plus a van is ideal for sleeping in.

c) if you carry a fuel/diesel tank with you, you may be able to go a long time without purchasing fuel. In the driveaway industry, it's customary that any fuel left in the trucks tanks is yours. Of course you have to leave a little for the customer, but basically any fuel left over is yours. And fuel is a major expense for anyone doing this type of work.

You mentioned laredo and dallas; i would actually suggest first looking into the companies that hire company drivers out of these locations i believe auto-truck and/or iron tiger. As i said, i've done it both ways and i much prefer being an employee. However, one thing about IC is that your on your own and it is more freedom and some people like it that way, plus there are massive tax advantages for IC.
Looking at just the money, if one were to be very judicious and make the right decisions, then an IC could make as much or more than a company hand depending on the circumstances. Again, i generally prefer being a company driver vs. IC.

Most of the people, at least w/ truckmovers and unimark seemed like roaming gypsies/not all that happy of indivduals, not exactly regular sleepers, rolling stones, you know that type of person. Kinda struggling financially, but i feel their home/personal situation was the reason for financial problems, not because they couldn't make money moving trucks.

i did meet 2 individuals who were very together not only in personality, but financially, so it CAN be done. The numbers do add up. i would say consistency is the key. But then again, that's the key to almost anything.

i can't think of anything else, i will probably PM you or you could PM me.

 

Oh, i thought of another thing: i feel that in the long run taking the short runs pays off; Every now and then, they might want you to do a "favor" for them by taking some short, shuttle-type runs which, on paper, don't seem to pay a whole lot and don't seem to be worth it. Your still making a profit, but not a whole lot. But 9 times out of 10 when i did that, the dispatchers remembered this, and of course this leads to better and better things, longer runs etc.

Just some posible stategy tips.

And i just remembered, you asked how much i made--depending on luck and my willingness to be out there and drive (just like when you're a company driver) the net was anyhere from 400-1100. Again sort of like a company driver. i've acutally posted some settlement checks on another site and i will try to find the link or the actually settlement checks and/or 1099's. The 400's and stuff in that range, i maybe did one long run to chicago and then ran another one home because i wanted to be home. The higher checks, i ran wherever they had trucks to be moved to and got another load close by. Again, it's a combo of luck and willingess to be out there. But luck is largely determined by willingness to be out there i think.

The bottom line is that this CAN work, if you're organized and business minded. It can be a blessing for someone who wants more freedom and OTR at the same time. i guess the big thing is you can go home whenever you want vs. company driver----that doesn't always turn out that way.

 

i PM'ed you the link. If you can't find it, i'll send it again.

i'm not really sure on an average to the next load, but all i can say about that is i NEVER deadheaded more than 300 miles per week. And most weeks was considerably less than that. Again, contracting with different companies can help.

i don't know if Chuck himself can help you with hitches etc., but someone at TM can by giving you sources. If i have time, which i don't, i will try to look up some of my sources that i used.

Here's one:
http://www.towhitches.net/towhitches.shtml This is the hitch i used, however, i would recommend using more than one type of hitch, because this one does not work on all brands of trucks and required some modification to be used on Volvo because they're frames are a little wider than everyone elses (another reason why i don't like volvo).

 

P.S., i'm thinking the f-150 would probably be better than the grand am.

i don't think RWD is nessesarily harder to tow than fwd. Really all you have to do is drop the driveshaft and plug up the trans where the yoke goes into the trans.

i think there is a kit for RWD vehicles that let's you disconnect the driveshaft automatically and you'll want to look into that because i'm thinkinng that if you disconnect and re-connect the shaft too many times, the holes on the pinion may strip out. So i would use WD-40 or light oil on the bolts when you put those straps back in.

 

Whoops! i forgot to send the link; i will send it in a few.

i don't really have time to get into the hardware---i guess you'll have to do your own research on that but basically, when you tow a chase vehicle, the the chase vehicle must have, usually, a baseplate which is where the tow bar connects to. The baseplate is usually bolted(sometimes welded) to the frame or other structure of the chase vehicle. i think blue ox is a good comapny and both your vehicles are pretty popular so blue ox and other companies should make baseplates that fit both of those cars. In some cases you could bolt flanges onto your bumper and then connect to the towbar like that, but i'm not sure if that is the best/safest way to do it? i'm not sure. But this would be cheaper/faster/easier than getting a baseplate installed.

Also i recommend safety chains over cables, but cables will do the job. i just prefer chains.

i think any good RV shop could really help you. In fact, if you go to any of the larger RV forums on the net they could really help with researching tow hardware, because you notice most RV'ers tow a small car behind them usually?

Now, as far as sleeping in my car. Yes, if the truck had a sleeper, then yes i would usually go use the sleeper. However, sometimes when deadheading to the next load, i wouldn't get there until next morning or couldn't pickup until next morning and then often times i would pull into a truckstop or walmart and sack out there. Even when i did have a sleeper, sometimes i would still sleep in the car because it was actually more comfortable in there alot of the times and i was more settled in the car.
NOTE: TM and others have a lot of trucks to be moved w/out sleepers.
AlSO NOTE: that in order to be legally off on line one, you must disconnect your chase vehicle from the truck. You can legally sleep in your car and be off duty, line one, but you must disconnect it from the truck.

For the light cord, i used the 4pin type wiring that you can get at any rv shop or even walmart. i used several of them tied together in series. In other words, one plugged in after the other to have enough lenght to make it to the lights on the back of my car. And i plugged this into the 7 pin outlet on the back of the tractor using a 4pin to 7 pin adapter which i think you can also get at walmart, but if you cant i have a link for that as well. It shouldn't be more than $10. This worked well for me. Oh yes, i remember another thing---you'll want to stock up on zip ties at walmart/homedepot etc. to use in securing the wiring to the frame of the truck so it doesn't fly around.

There is another way to do it, and if you move a straight truck, bus or some other truck that doesn't have a 7 pin outlet, you'll most probably have to do it this way: You'll notice that on the back of a straight truck, there are usually two squarish tailights. There is a group of wires that plugs into these lights. This wire harness can usually be unplugged from the lights and you would need to plug in your lights to the back of the car into this wiring plug off the truck. i wish i could get a picture, but basically you'll need an adapter or plug that will go into the truck's wiring. Basically another plug.

i still drive for a living---i'm just local regional now. i still have an inkling to do this type of work either company driver or independant. i will have to say one thing about this type of work---it's fun.

It's funny you ask my age, because i was making a big deal about it in the EVERYTHING section. i'm 39 which i can handle. i just can't handle 40---i'll probably die the day i turn 40. i actually like being 39 and wish i could be 39 forever. And this is actually the reason why i said my mental state was not good. Seriously.

 

Thanks for all your information Powell! Very interesting. By the way, I wish I was back at your age. Enjoy the 40's. That's a great time of life.. I just became Social Security eligible a month and a half ago. Now that's something to be depressed about.....

 

I see you wised up and found work elsewhere, according to your comments in the SEFL thread. Can't make any real money consistently working non union driveaway; most likely loose money anymore. Huge turnover for all too obvious reasons.