Because the unit has discrete electronics built into it used to produce a pulse, the output impedance will not give you an accurate measurement that can be used whether or not the unit is good. The testing to see if the unit is functioning is to produce the pulse, no pulse, bad. Pulse, good. If you want a more technical description, I can provide that.
Can somebody explain wheel speed sensors to me
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by MTMAUS, Mar 16, 2025.
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Jack up a wheel, spin it, and read the AC output?
Pull it down the road while hanging under it with a meter and two tiny holes to try to get the probes into?
No, they expect you to OHM it
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Rotate wheel and verify a minimum of 0.25 VAC sensor output at ~ 0.5 RPSRideandrepair Thanks this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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No they don't expect to "ohm" it, I never saw that.
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I concur with DOSGATOS information he provided and it is correct. That is a an operational test, however it is not a one all be all means of diagnosing a wheel speed sensor. Being that Bendix has been refenced in the discussion, please see accompanying guide copied and pasted directly from Bendix's site concerning Electrical Diagnostic procedure for their sensors. They put not as stated in capps not me.
Normal resistance range across pins at room temperature should be 1500-2000 Ohms. (Note: Previous model WS-20™ sensor was rated at 2000-2500 Ohms.) Individually test the resistance of each pin to vehicle ground and note there is NO CONTINUITY. If the resistance readings are as shown, the wire harness leading to the modulator may require repair or replacement. Before attempting repair or replacement of the wire harness, refer to the test procedures specified for the antilock controller in use for possible further testing that may be required to substantiate the wire harness problem. If the resistance values are NOT AS STATED, replace the sensor. Resistance could be as low as 1100 Ohms or as high as 3300 Ohms if wheel end has recently been exposed to extreme temperature. -
Nope Nope Nope... you guys are running down a rabbit hole.
Sensor is fine, reading correctly, tone ring is out of round.
It's a Freightliner. It's a common problem, the tone ring is out of balance on the hub.
Corrosion in between where the tone ring mounts to the hub. Sensor is fine, don't go buy one.
Pull the wheels, brakes, hub off offending axle, wire wheel were the tone ring sits on the hub, and replace the tone ring, $55 part at freightliner, $600 in labor.
Southern tire mart in Corsicana TX did my last one. $700 out the door.JB7 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
If the wheel speed sensor can see a variance between the other axles, then the sensor ain't bad. No need to go Ohm'ing wiring harnesses.
It's what the sensor is reading, thats bad -
If it was the tone ring, surely it would throw the code immediately, all the time.
It can't be the tone ring when you can drive 5000miles of no issues.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Finally got to test some today
4.94 volts at first plug I can find before all the wires disappear into the harness .
4.94 volts at plug where the sensor plugs in, 1150 ohms at for sensor.
when you jack up front wheel and spin it, the sensors creates voltage and the ohms fluctuates.
Tested both front wheels, both the same.
What's the next step here? find the waebco controller and test there?
ABS dash light was coming and going before, now it is on permanentlyRideandrepair Thanks this.
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