Question for the KW/Peterbilt folks. What material should a guy use for cab fasteners? Been ripping and tearing on the old A model the last few days. Obviously aluminum would be fine for aluminum to aluminum but this cab has more steel in it than aluminum. So what would be best for those steel to aluminum connections?
Where is everyone #5
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by DDlighttruck, Aug 27, 2017.
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Wife & I came to chattanooga today to do some Christmas shopping. People watching at the mall is some of the best free entertainment you can get.
Feedman, exhausted379, CAXPT and 7 others Thank this. -
Do you mean like a monobolt?
what about stainless hucks?Feedman, exhausted379, CAXPT and 4 others Thank this. -
Seems like this cab is about 25/75 aluminum buck rivets and steel monobolts. Most of the ones around the front of the door frame and up by the windshield look like aluminum buck rivets. Not sure how the steel monobolts didn't corroded the aluminum skin, the exposed heads on some are rusty.
I though stainless and aluminum reacted with each other? I keep getting mixed info off the net. Some sources say stainless reacts, others say galvanized will (or won't).
In all honesty I was quite surprised how well the aluminum buck rivets up front had held up being in direct contact with the steel part of the cab behind the air cleaners. Heads were a bit powdery under the paint but still holding pretty tight. The shank was still more or less solid. Previous owner said he had repainted the truck about 30 years ago so they've held up well.
Maybe I'm just looking too far into things.Last edited: Dec 6, 2025 at 5:03 PM
Feedman, exhausted379, MACK E-6 and 8 others Thank this. -
I will be honest here i probably don’t have an educated answer on what your seeking. As far as the wills, whys and should i’s.
If im not drastically mistaken Pete uses a stainless Huck to mount the grill which is stainless to the grill surround which if its factory is 100 percent aluminum. They make some stainless in aftermarket but the material is thinner and I’m not the biggest fan. I’ve never seen a stainless Huck corroded there. Course I realize now that I’m hucking stainless to aluminum. That may be a difference.
Buck rivets work well. I’ve been taking care of some older Great Dane wagons with aluminum and steel connections. I haven’t seen anything to worry me in those….other than you need a helper to put em in .Feedman, exhausted379, MACK E-6 and 8 others Thank this. -
In wildwood. Stopped at Dani’s. 4 ####en dollars for a miller high life. So I went next door and got a six pack for 9. Still high as camel cooch, but not 24 bucks for a 6 pack. Other than that it’s the same. A bar full of unwashed fat bodies talking loud and telling trucker lies. So…. Yeah nothing has changed in 4 years. (The last time I was in there). Except the bar tender is an Indian(dot not feather). But she had the uniform on. Shirt and shorts about 1 size too small. I estimate them to be a large.
Feedman, exhausted379, MACK E-6 and 10 others Thank this. -
I'm not sure if the hucks are stainless, galvanized or uncoated steel on this cab. I just mainly want to avoid having to do it all again 10 years down the road or having it corrode the aluminum skin underneath a really expensive paint job. I don't see washers under the heads of any steel monobolts I've drilled out so far.
I plan on putting some thin plastic between any points where the steel and aluminum would be in direct contact, which would mostly be where the back wall meets the steel frame at the bottom and along the bottom of the door frame where it sits on the steel frame.Feedman, MACK E-6, OLDSKOOLERnWV and 5 others Thank this. -
Fat chicks can be hot…. Wait I’m a cowhauler disregardFeedman, exhausted379, OLDSKOOLERnWV and 6 others Thank this.
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You know what the red dot is for? It’s the husband reset button. “Nag NAG N A G NAAAAG!” (red button…reset…silence) “Thank you come again.”wore out, Feedman, exhausted379 and 5 others Thank this.
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stainless
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