What is the best truck out for an O/O?

I would go with a longer wheelbase quality built truck. Like a Rawhide Mack, 379 or w900. I would stay away from the cheap areo trucks, knee and hip replacements are pricey. I think you,d be able to work harder and take less time off, because the truck isn,t beating the hell out of you.

 

03 or newer(updated interior) w900/379
86inch sleeper/70inch
c15 550-625 or red top 600 cummins
13sp-18sp
3.36-3.55 gears on east/west cost
3.08-3.36 gears on the plains

I know there a little more money and there alot about the image but Id be proud and its my home away from home so i want to be comfortable and its worth it to me for a few more dollars

 

99-03 379Ext
Cat C-15 at 550
13sp -18sp depending on what you like. My pref is 15sp with the high hole up against the dash.
3.55 gears - unless you plan to pull a hopper, then 3.73
flat top sleeper with adjustable air dam - again unless you plan to pull a hopper, then just a flat top if you have to have a sleeper.
Unless you are going to be an Interstate rat, get the longest wheel base you can find, those state roads are not going to get any better any time soon.
24.5 open shoulder drivers
On a personal note, I would pass on a truck with only basic gauges. As an O/O I want to be able to keep an eye on everything.

 

Highlited in red is the primary reason that I won't get a newer W900L...The cheap plastic crap dash like a stinkin' car.
My interior is identical to the newer ones only without the cheesey plastic dash!

 

If you are buying used be very careful of buying an ex-fleet truck. "Fleet maintained" is not always a positive thing these days. Some of the ones our fleet is trading in or re-selling have been flogged to death and patched up to keep them running for the past year..... especially those that have served as "spares". Kind of depends on who drove it; someone who knows trucks or a fuggit kind of steering wheel holder.

For example, mine is a 05 Binder with big bunk, ISX Cummins, 10 spd, air susp, 600K on it. I've driven it for 4 years. If I were buying I'd probly go $40K for it because I know the truck and it's ways. I know it's go at least another 2-3 years with no big problems because I don't let stuff go. On the other hand, I drove a "spare" last week (identical equip, identical truck) 'cause mine was in the shop for a couple days. I wouldn't give you $20K for it.

A good clue is look at the interior. What kind of shape are the seats in... loose suspension, air leaks off, armrests flopping around? How's the cabinetry.... loose or missing doors, big screws and washers holding stuff together? Interior lights work... if not why? Same for bunk controls,etc. Check the "fuse box", look for non-match wiring or non-match circuit brakers and fuses. Look under dash for "hanging wires" or odd drilled holes. Dash controls all work, including guages and their lights. These are all signs of a "fuggit" mentality.

Mechanically, the best plan is to ask if you can take it to an independant shop for a lookover. A "competing" brand is best 'cause they don't have any reason to gloss over something (and you'll be amazed at how thorough they will be). If the seller hesitates or says no... walk away.

 

There should be no reason for a place or person selling a truck to let you take it to your mech or a good mechanic shop. If that person says no I would give them the fuggit attitude and walk the heck away from that truck.

 

what does full lockers mean on a truck? i don't think i've driven one with them.

 

My present employer has a glut of old International 9400i's. They don't look like much; and, at first, I didn't really care for them (I wanted one of the Petes, Prostars or Freightshaker Cascadias but got one of these beasts instead).

But, as I drove this present truck, I've come to appreciate it a lot more for the following reasons:

• The Cummins ISX powerplant comes standard in these things. Nothing special on flat land but, whenever I run into an uphill grade, I often end up outpulling all but the most powerful rigs carrying a similar load, even under a heavy load. Depending on the length of the grade I often drop only 1 gear (in a 10-speed tranny); sometimes I can pull the whole grade in 10th.
• The sleeper is surprisingly roomy.
• Company-spec'd 9400i's are often base-model trucks, and mine is no exception. The upshot is that there's nothing fancy about it; it's nothing more than a good, solid, basic truck; this translated into fewer maintenance headaches (usually).
• Most trucks made after 2006 (?) are required by law to run ULSD fuel (ULSD=Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel). The 2006 (maybe also 2007) model 9400i's can run on either ULSD or LSD fuel with no issues. This can be helpful when the only fuel stop for miles carries only LSD fuel.

If you can find yourself a used one that's been well-maintained then you may have yourslf a winner. I'd probably never buy one from my particular company, though; I know too much about the practices of our maintenance department, and it ain't always pretty.

 

Can you back this up with proof other than say-so.

I might just be lucky but my new inframed isx 475 gets 7.7 @67mph on flat, calm day pulling 80,050 LBS gross.

And in almost continious bad mountians working the piss out of her 4.98mpg trying to maintain 67mph pulling 86,700 lbs gross.
And that was with fuel starting topped and ending topped on both runs.

 

My opinion if you have the purchase money!
1st T-600/660
2nd Aero KWs
3rd Aero Peterbuilt

Spec'd combination mountians and flats
475 ISX Cummins
13spd
3:55 rears
22.5 tall or 24.5 low pro
IF sleeper72" min 82"or 84" even better