First and Foremost this is My Suggestions and is not the opinion of this Forum, the members, or any Company. I am not a recruiter nor am I about to Sugar Coat anything, As you all know not any two truckers will agree(otherwise we would be making a lot more money than we do now) This is simply what I would tell any of you who are interested in Driving, or are in the process of finding a JOB in the Industry.
I am going to Pose the question and I am going to give the answer,My answer anyway, and why you should carry tools on your Truck.
I just read a Post where a Driver's Wife ( yep she does not Drive but knows more than most Students obviously) Tried to explain how to Adjust Brakes to a "Newbie" freshly released student, who knew more than them, I pray you made it to where you were going pal.
So the Question DO I need tools on my truck.
The answer is simple YES, you will need tools no matter what you drive, no matter how good the Company says their shop is.
It is your Responsibility as the Driver to perform a check on all systems, it is called the pretrip, unfortunately MOST Schools do not teach you how to correct problems you encounter, nor do trainers as all they care about it the Money they make from you being in the truck.
Now there are a few who give a dang about you being safe, very few but they do exist out there.
When Checking the Alternator belts, etc, you might encounter a loose bolt, You can tighten these and you can call your company and have it done like Most Steering wheel holders would. Or you can use some common sense and tighten the belt, or bolts yourself. Lefty Loosey, Righty tighty, pretty simple. If the Belt is loose find the Pivot point on the Alternator, Usually has a long bolt through it, the two other bolts are short and used to keep the alternator in place, You will have to loosen them up, DO NOT REMOVE them, once you have loosened them Put a pry bar, or Big Screw driver UNDER the Alternator so you are pulling tension on the Loose belt. NOW in Reverse order tighten the TWO locking bolt, and the adjusting bolt.
Now if you happen to find an "Adjustment" bolt that is threaded itis easier to adjust, simply loosen the Locking Bolts, tighten the adjuster, looks like a LONG threaded bolt that goes into a Stationary nut, get the belt tight, but not to tight.
If it is TOO tight it will break and you are screwed.
Now for those of you who do not have any Mechanical common sense and before you drove had not as Much checked your own oil, or changed it, call Your DISPATCH get it fixed, next time you are in the shop, befriend a mechanic and Watch and learn.
Now onto the Wonderful Slack adjusters, yes you are required to check them on every axle. and every wheel, every day, Now some folks think getting out of the truck pissing between the tandems, walking around thumping tires and checking lights qualifies as a PTI, NOPE and The DOT will hold you responsible. Also with the NEW CSA 2010 You will get points against you for simple things like improperly adjusted brakes, but hey if you do not want to check them, or are to #### lazy just do not do it. When you and the 800,000 other lazy drivers loose their jobs, and can not get one the roads will be better without you anyway.
Just because you have a CDL does not mean that driving is the only thing you have to do, PTI is part of the job, as much as your log book is.
So Adjusting your Slack adjuster ( if you are reading this far you actually give a #### about your job) there are some Auto Adjusting Slack adjusters, yet they have the adjustment nut on the back, FOR the PROPER METHOD of ADJUSTING THESE REFER TO THE NEXT POST FROM ROLLOVER ORIGINAL.
THIS IS FOR MANUAL SLACK ADJUSTERS ONLY, DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST AUTOMATIC SLACK ADJUSTERS WITH TOOLS. READ ROLLOVER'S Post below.
So when you are looking at the back of the Slack adjuster you will see a nut/bolt whatever you wish to call it sticking out, after pulling on the slack adjuster, ( BIG thing to do first, CHOCK the wheels or do the Trailer first then the truck but do not RELEASE the Brakes on BOTH as you might be chasing your TRUCK or worse get run over by your own rig, If you do not have a chock release the trailer first adjust them then set them, release the tractor and adjust) if it is out of adjustment you will need a 9/16 or 1/2 inch wrench turn it clockwise to tighten it, when it is tight back it of 1/2 turn.
Pull on it, look at the Brake shoes to make sure that there is a small gap between the pads, and drum. As long as you do not HAVE more than 1 inch of FREE PLAY in the slack adjuster you are good to go.
AND IF IN DOUBT AT ALL ABOUT DOING THIS TAKE IT TO A SHOP, LET A MECHANIC DO IT IF YOU ARE NOT 100% SURE!!!
Air chambers, vary as for the airlines going into them, some are 5/8 right up to 1 1/4 some might be bigger nut usually not smaller than 5/8.
Now you will need to have some wrenches, screwdrivers, and DUCT TAPE, laugh but think about this you pick up a Dry Box, or Reefer.
The dry box has a small hole in the SIDE shipper refuses the trailer, none around to swap it out with, Well you lost a load.
The Reefer has an air curtain that runs most of the trailer, it has a rip the produce shipper will not load you with it hanging down, you are screwed.
DUCT tape works wonders in a pinch.
There is a thread with a list of tools you should carry, also if you are not mechanically inclined and you are not sure about something, ask someone on the CB, yea there are a ton of smart asf's out there but there is usually a few good drivers who will teach you how to do it right.
To those of you who say it ain't my Trailer and it ain't my truck I seriously suggest that you go read my thread "advice about trucking without the SUGAR Coating"
Do I need tools ?Will I use them ?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by DocHoliday, Jul 25, 2010.
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Just a little warning about self adjusting brakes: DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH ANY TOOLS! All of the manufacturers advise that if the are not adjusting by themselves then there is a problem that needs to be located and dealt with! About the only time a shop manually adjusts them is #1 when replaced and it's the first adjustment and #2 after a repair.
Also you are NOT a mechanic so you do not need to be messing around with them because if you screw up, then after the accident you're about to have all the lawyers that come out of the wood work will be all over the post accident reports and BRAKES is in the top 5 things checked and when they find a bad manual adjustment then someone is in deep sheep dip! Also, here are several different ways to adjust self adjusting brakes.The best is let the shop do anything related to self adjusting brakes!I can't stress this any more!
Manual brakes. #1 are on the way out! They are old technology. If you are taught how to adjust them it's ok but not in front of a DOT or after a DOT inspection unless you own the truck and trailer. You have to call a mechanic now a days!
Auto slack adjusters are adjusted from INSIDE the tractor sitting in the drivers seat! The easiest job you have on the truck related to a PTI!
It's simple and NO it will NOT wear out your brakes as some O/O's think or L/P drivers are led to believe. I'll explain during the lesson!
Release the brakes while at the fuel island or in the parking lot but I'd be sure you're not going to pissoff a sleeping driver when you do this! You can also do this while sitting at a red light!
Let the truck roll forward a little and then put at least 30 pounds of pressure on the brakes and release and do this a few times. If at the fuel island or in the parking lot put it in reverse and do this again. Roll and apply the brakes and you'll feel them go into adjustment. They just start to brake faster and you'll feel it. AND because you are not creating heat you are not wearing them out! Doing this several times a day while doing city driving keeps them in adjustment and if doing a lot of mountain driving also. You can do this when you have to stop at a brake check area in mountains or on the shoulder if you feel like your brakes are fading.
You will also be doing two PTI checks at the same time while adjusting the brakes! You'll be doing the low pressure warning and the emergency brake check.
One thing a lot of drivers do not know what to do is check the travel on the slack adjusters! There are several tools to use, one is a tool that you slip onto the adjuster and it allows you to manually move the adjuster so you can measure the travel on the rod. The other is a set of yellow plastic washers that you put on the rod then go up and apply and release the brakes and then go back and measure the travel.
You can also tell how the adjustment is by looking at the space between the brake shoe and the drum. You'll learn what it "looks like" after a brake adjustment.
Then there is the two person method. One person sits in the drivers seat and the other is under the trailer or tractor with a tape measure. (I keep a 25' retractable Stanley in my tool box along with a 100' measure too). Put the tape over the slack adjuster and the brake rod. Yell brakes and then look at the amount of travel and there you have it. Anything over 1" and they are "out of adjustment" Do this for each brake or, as in all 10 of them! This is what DOT does when he pulls you in. Best alternative to this is get the washer thing!rocknroll nik, DocHoliday, American-Trucker and 12 others Thank this. -
Thanks For that Rollover, I am going to edit My Post, I am not much on adjusting them manually. I am going to advise anyone else to read your post.
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Good words of wisdom gentlemen Thank you!
Everett and DocHoliday Thank this. -
What I mean is that I was taught that when you are sitting still doing your PTI and pump down the brakes to set off the buzzer and eventually pop the spring brakes, this will adjust your brakes (nothing said about the truck needing to move). But, I've recently had a few different mechanics and/or instructors tell me that this does nothing to adjust them. Haven't had issues with brake adjustment since I made this part of my PTI, so I'm assuming it's working.
As a side note, I recently took a very odd driving test for a job I was trying to get. Tester marked me down a few points for doing this on the basis that it was going to now take time for air pressure to build back up. Never crossed my mind, as this is always the time that I do my paperwork so the time factor is irrelevant, and it's kinda wrong to have a company be against me doing anything to test for safety. -
have you ever heard the saying it's better to have them and not need them than need them and not have them I had a driver call a service guy ot at 2am to tighten batter cables don't do that to your company
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While we're on the subject of self adjusting brakes....... I was talking to our shop forman a couple of days ago and he's gonna have this little item about brakes in our next safety bulletin.
It seems that we recently had a driver smoke a new set of brakes on a grade. When he got to the bottom he set all of the brakes and waited for everything to cool down.
When he went to move the truck after a while, the brakes wouldn't release.
Why?
Because the automatic adjusters had adjusted the brake shoes out while the driver was applying heavy pressure to them on the grade. The heat made the drums expand slightly and the brakes were now "adjusted" to the new oversize drums.
When the drums cooled they tried to contract back to their original size and "presto", instant brake lock-up with the shoes jammed against the drums and a call to the shop to get him going again.
For me it was one of those "forehead slapping Duh!" moments..... I had never really though about it ('cause I try like heck to never abuse the brakes) but it makes sense.
just sayin'
.............. Jim -
Never mind!!! I just realized it was a typo!!!! Oh dopey me!!!Last edited: Jul 26, 2010
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I hope this gets out to all drivers. There's been lots of studies done about adjusting ASA and the results were simple. If you adjust them manuelly they will not stay adjusted. I believe the last study was done by the NTSB but if you do not want to believe any of us please look up the slack adjuster on the net and it will tell you there to have them in the shop if they are out of adjustment. I wonder how many schools teach this???
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Good right up! I've helped a lot of drivers, because I know how much is sucks to have a break down, and I'm always surprised how un-prepared some drivers are. I helped one guy who didn't even have a flashlight. I keep a toolbox that fits in any sleeper-side box and it has a couple dozen metric/standard wrenches, a big channel lock, cresent wrench, multiple screwdrivers, torque bits, allen wrenches, multi-meter, mics screws, bolts, washers, hammer, wire snips, needle nose, tape, zip ties, extra flashlight, tape measure, jumper cables, extra lights, and a few other misc things. Granted I normaly only remember the times when I don't have the right tool, but if I really think about it, that little toolbox has saved me dozens of times and therefore has paid for itself dozens of times over just in downtime, let alone mechanics bills. I've always tried to do the basic maintenance and repairs whenever I couldn't get to a shop or terminal. Having said that, you have to know when to ask for help, or accept defeat so you don't make a bad situation, worse.
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