What to do to make my c-15 a little faster?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by ronnyenns, Jul 4, 2010.

  1. Mr. Haney

    Mr. Haney Road Train Member

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    I forgot one point............PDI will write a customer a custom file.......I now have in my possession an ECM with a file written to my specifications for a customer.......it has a very custom tune in it for a Australian road train that grosses 330,000Lbs........I think that's customer service...........we'll see if the customer thinks the same in two weeks
     
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  3. Far_Call

    Far_Call Medium Load Member

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    I suppose its all open to how you operate and what you know.
    ET lic numbers are stored as explained by Mr. Haney however with the correct knowhow the ET Lic number can and is changed to suit any Lic number you want and as such it's not an issue.

    At the end of the day both methods are working very well for people and no one will ever agree as to whats best.
     
  4. Donk

    Donk Have a Cup Of Concrete

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    let me tell you this, if you want to change any power parameters on a cummins, its flash a new tune... there are no settings like FLS.FTS or whatever in there... besides, with cummins STERLING signature reliability record, im leery of even allowing the 620 tune to be put in mine.. i would like the lowdown TQ curve, but i will stay with the 585 tune.. at least its less likley to turn into a cummins colored pile of iron on the road..
     
  5. ronnyenns

    ronnyenns Bobtail Member

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    Ok my PDI tuned ecm got back to me monday morning and just installed it today and truck runs real smooth, i havent tried it yet with load or anything, ill let ya guys know once ill run it a bit longer, btw where can i buy a good fuel pressure tester to test the FP? I googled it but i dont know which one to look at..any help would be great..
     
  6. ronnyenns

    ronnyenns Bobtail Member

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    I got myself a fuel press gauge and tested the pressure, it did 85 psi at 1500-1600 rpm, which should be 110 psi at least, what needs to be done or where could i find shims for the spring?
     
  7. milskired

    milskired Road Train Member

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    I read somewhere 110psi was about the max you want. 100psi was what you should be running at a constant IIRC.
     
  8. Far_Call

    Far_Call Medium Load Member

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    100~110PSI is fine..... The spring is in the Fuel Transfer pump on the front cover on the left side of the engine.
    The old pumps had a 5/8 socket size plug retaining the spring and the later pumps have an Allen key plug retaining the spring.

    The new Spring Kit should bump up the pressure assuming all else is OK.
    You can shim it or what some do is stretch the spring but most of all if after doing either it doesn't alter the PSI then you need to look elsewhere and rectify that fault and then set the spring tension back to where it should be to give you the correct/ideal Fuel PSI.
     
    ronnyenns Thanks this.
  9. ronnyenns

    ronnyenns Bobtail Member

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    Thanks a mil this info was very usefull, i shimed it with a 1/2 inch shim and now i've got 100-105 psi, i think ill leave it like this and get on the road for a test drive.
     
  10. Far_Call

    Far_Call Medium Load Member

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    Here is some info to help you ascertain if the Pump or pressure regulating Valve in the pump are OK:

    1. [FONT=&quot]Use the following procedure to check the output of the fuel transfer pump: [/FONT]
      1. [FONT=&quot]Remove return fuel line (Line from the back of the Cylinder head where it meats the filter head.)
        [/FONT]

      1. [FONT=&quot]Install 0~150 PSI Pressure Gauge into the port that contained the return fuel line fitting.[/FONT]

      1. [FONT=&quot]Adjust the engine speed to 600 rpm with no load.[/FONT]

      1. [FONT=&quot]The fuel pressure should be 690 kPa (100 psi) to 724 kPa (105 psi).[/FONT]

      1. [FONT=&quot] If the pressure is less than 655 kPa (95 psi), the fuel transfer pump is weak. The pressure regulating valve in the pump may be stuck or worn. The pressure regulating valve is located under access plug. Remove the access plug. Remove the pressure regulating valve, the spring, and the pin. Inspect the pressure regulating valve. If contamination is not found and the pressure regulating valve is worn out replace the fuel transfer pump. If dirt is found, clean the valve assembly and reinstall the valve assembly. Reinstall access plug .[/FONT]

      1. [FONT=&quot]Check the fuel pressure again. Replace the fuel transfer pump if the fuel pressure still measures less than 655 kPa (95 psi). The fuel transfer pump is operating properly if the fuel pressure measures at least 690 kPa (100 psi) to 724 kPa (105 psi).[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]Once the fuel transfer pump has been confirmed as properly operating, check the fuel pressure again at the secondary fuel filter base.

    Just don't increase the RPM above 600RPM whilst you have the return line plugged with the Gauge!!! :biggrin_2555:

    Usually you can tell if the pressure regulating Valve is cracking off as the pressure will jump back and forth on the gauge especially if you have the gauge close to the pump outlet.
    If the pump is worn or the valve not seating the pressure is usually low and steady.
    [/FONT]
     
    ronnyenns Thanks this.
  11. T800H

    T800H Medium Load Member

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    The Keys
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    What to do to make my c-15 a little faster? Well just got my ECM back from Mr Haney , if you really want your C15 a little faster he is the man, how does 99,1 mph sound to you? power to spear, I don't ever drive not even near that fast, but since I got it I had to try it, talk about a much smoother running Cat now, I got the feeling that fuel mileage is going to improve the way this thing just kind of glide over the pavement with hardly touching the pedal, have to watch it now it goes away and by the time you realize your doing 75 mph and this is on a 55 mph road, it goes really smooth,I LIKE IT. Thank you Mr Haney .Eddy
     
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