Is it your MPG improvement TODO list?

Guys, just want to share with you my MPG improvement TODO list.
I did a lots of research on aerodynamics, driving techniques, tractor tweaking, etc.

This list is made up for my Volvo VNL 670 '04, 13sp manual. Pulling 53' dry van. Some of these techniques may not be applicable to some other configurations.

I trust many guys will find this list helpful. If you have anything to add, welcome to do that.

This list has three categories:
1. Driving techniques.
2. Aerodynamics.
3. Tractor & trailer tweaking / adjustments.

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DRIVING TECHNIQUES:

1. Fuel efficient speed 55 mph -> max. 60 mph. Every 1 mph over 55 mph will kill 0.1 mpg.
2. Progressive shifting at lowest RPM possible with no lugging of the engine.
3. Always splitting gears on 13 spd transmission.
4. Ease up on fuel pedal while accelerating.
5. Use engine brakes for gradual slowdown. Least use of service brakes. Time your highway exit slowdowns, city driving, intersections approaching, etc. Keep rolling as long as you can!
6. Read the road: keep sufficient distance between you and vehicles in front of you, use cruise mostly on plain terrain, drive w/o cruise on heavy hilly terrains (let pickup speed when down the hill, start accelerating when approaching lower RPM climing the hill). Gradually accelerate on plain ground and down the hills.
7. Downshift at lowest RPM (1000-1100 RPM).
8. Stay in higher possible gear with lowest RPM combined.
9. Drive slower with head and / or side wind.
10. Idle not, or if you do, do it to the bare minimum. Idle 5 min to torm up the engine to about 130F, or to cool down to about 170F. That is necessary idling. Setup your ECM to shut off the engine at 5 mm idling limit. Every hour of idling wastes up to 1 gal of fuel in summer, up to 1.5 gal in winter. I idle to the mostly minimal point, but still burn about 30 gal. every month (30 gal x $3 per gal = $150 every month fuel loss). If you idle all the time then you probably waste $800-1500 every month! Better buy yourself an APU and eventually save a lot hack of money!
11. If driving in caravan with your buddies, make an agreement between all of you to keep certain close but safe distance (200-300 ft.) between the trucks in order to decrease wind resistance (some may argue this advise). Don't tailgate anyone without making an agreement with the other guy!

AERODYNAMICS:

1. Slide fifth wheel to the very front of axle weights permit. Decrease tractor-trailer gap to the minimum.
2. Install flat aerodynamic wheel covers to shut off air flow into all your wheels. Appr. $140 per axle.
3. AirTabs application on a tractor and / or trailer. Eliminates air cutting in between tractor and trailer, makes the unit more stable on the highway, greatly improves mileage at any head winds, eeases up side wind fuel loss. http://buyairtab.com/
4. Remove all extra exterior addons such as hood bug deflectors and moose bumper.
5. Periodically clean hood mesh and radiator front side (let more air flow through into your Hot Air To Air and radiator).
6. If puling dedicated trailer, install aerodynamic skirts underneath it.

TRACTOR & TRAILER TWEAKING / ADJUSTMENTS:

1. Use low rolling resistance tires such as Michelin 11R22.5 XDA3 (steers), Michelin 11R22.5 XDN2 (drives). Keep in mind that new tires are more fuel consuming than the ones with higher tread wear.
2. Use A/C as less as possible. When ON, it draws more HP from your engine, thus heating it more and forcing the engine fan come on more often, and that draws even more HP from it. More HP drawn, more fuel out of your exhaust pipe!
3. Slide trailer axles to the very front but keep compliant with DOT rules and regulations.
4. Replace stock muffler with high flow Pittsburg Power or Donaldson M100463 muffler. Will improve torque, lower backpressure and save your fuel.
5. Make sure all air and fuel filters are clean and serviced on timely basis.
6. I use Diesel Kleen fuel additive (boosts HP, increases diesel cetane, lubricates fuel system, saves mpg for about 0.1-0.3 mpg). Cheapest Walmart price found - $15.99 USD for 80 oz bottle. I split it in half for to fueling top ups.
7. Disable EGR valves. Result: mileage increase up to 1 mpg, get more HP, less soot bildup, less engine wear, cleaner engine oil with less oil contamination and fewer oil change, colder engine temperature, better emissions level (strange, isn't it?) etc. EGRs - pure SCAM, rip-off, or whatever you call it! Some underground guys charge up to $1,500 for intelligent EGR disconnection, but you can do it yourself on ISX in 5 min ($0 cost), in 2 hrs on Volvo ($100 for 4 new metal gaskets and 2 modified studs to shut off two exhaust return pipes in there)!
8. Run strictly on pure synthetic oil. Runs longer, cooler and more economically!
9. Fifth wheel greasing with every hookup.
10. Monitoring proper tire inflation.
11. Inflate all tires with nitrogen gas instead of air. Will keep tires cooler and lighter.
12. Use metal-ceramic one time application oil additives ("XADO", made in Ukraine, initially made for USSR military use in tanks and other heavy equipment) in the engine, hubs, steering box, gear box, differential assembly. It covers all wearing moving parts with thin permanent metal-ceramic layer (10x stronger than steel), decreasing tension between the parts, restoring and prolonging lifetime of any assembly, greatly increasing fuel mileage and HP since when applied (only once) it creates way lower amount of back pressure and driveline resistance to keep your payload moving. Buying directly in Ukraine will cost about $450 for the whole KIT. In US / Canada - $1,500-2,000.
I used it on all three gasoline cars I owned, and on the truck I have. It does what the manufacturer claims. Check out here - http://www.xado.com/global/
13. Remove fuel heaters from underneath the turbo in order to open more way for air flow through turbo into the air cooler.
14. I DO NOT SUGGEST even trying AIRCELL and / or TURBO 3000D because it is proven to be pure SCAM aka BS. (Will save you around $500 not buying that crap).
15. Do wheel / axle alignment every year, preferably along with your next tire rotation.
16. Rotate steer tires every 30K miles, drives twice a year in order to keep tread wear even across all the tires.
17. Lube your truck every 10K miles. Grease job costs around $25 and takes 15 minutes of your break / lunch time.
18. Consistently check and fix any air leaks in your air system. More air out of the system, more often the air compressor will kick in, thus consuming more fuel to complete the job.

P.S. Tried to give out as much info as I can express. Active participation in the thread is very welcome!

 

I have '04 Volvo VE D12 465HP

 

Mine is D12D w/ EGR.

Reman EGR # VOLVO is around $900, brand new one - $1,500.

 

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