All right all you truck mechanics, Wrenches, & Grease Monkey's

I do not know about the weight of the 18s but I can tell you I sure could of used an 18 speed yesterday out in VA. I hate steep roads with stop lights.....

 

You can probably find it cheaper than this, but here's the knob.

 

about ecm programming... all about tranny is in VECU. You should change Top gear ration. I did it with VCADs Pro ore VTT (dealers have only).

I did not try to swap tranny w/o programming, so I do not know what prolbem may appeare if you drive truck with wrong OD ratio in VECU

As I understand you have D12D engine, 420 HP. We operate trucks with D12D 420 and 12st transmissions. Splitter helps, but do not change situation radically, so if you wanna climb fater you need bigger engine. May be ISX

 

No the 18 spd is just a few pounds more than a 13. Both are several hundred more than a 10 spd.

 

this link will explain the codes on the tranny: http://www.roadranger.com/Roadrange...tionGuide/TransmissionGeneralInfoHD/index.htm

you will need to shorten the driveshaft by 1 1/2 inches.

get the shift knob from volvo. all the knobs will work , but the one that volvo sells will be a different shape,on the bottom, to fit the rubber boot
that covers the gearshift.

according to which tranny you wind up with , you may need to swap yokes out as well.

the main problem you will run into will be the price. reason for that is that a 10 speed core will bring nothing against a 13.

most 9 speeds can be converted to 13. some cannot. the rtx series is one that cannot.

too much hype and BS is laid out there about the torque ratings. KTA's /CATS/DETRIOTS with over 1000 hp used to run in front of trannys that were not rated up to their torque outputs. some people can tear up anything with anything.

 

Changing transmissions may or may not help.You need to factor your rear ratios into this,along with transmission ratios.Being able to split gears on hills helps but not if you sacrifice fuel mileage and road speed.Change over should be fairly simple,probably just changing the driveshaft length.Mounts should be the same.
I changed rears from 3.55 to 3.70,which helped my truck alot.I have a 9 speed and my next step is to add the overdrive to the back of the transmission.
With newer computerized trucks it probably wont be as simple as mine is,though.

 

I swapped a super 10 for a 13 3 months ago and kicked myself for not doing it sooner. Depends on exactly what tranny you have and what you're getting, but mine used the same shift tower and shifter (obviously had to have a new knob), same yoke, same speed sensor. The rear support was exactly the same on mine, and the length difference was less than 1/4", so didn't have to do anything with the driveshaft. The eaton website has a ton of useful info on it, and this one http://www.heavytruckparts.net/ is great for searching for parts and finding prices and part dealers. The 13 I bought was a reman, seems to run fine, the guys I bought it from weren't interested in my 10 as a core, said they've already got plenty of them. Their transmission guy was really helpful though. http://www.geigertruck.com/index.php

 

i would say go for it red--you will definately love the 13 over the 10
there isnt the big rpm drop --alot easier in the hills
be sure to price out a good clutch when you replace the tranny

 

If the OP has low numeric rear end gears you may wind up not being able to effectively use the top gear as it will be over driven. This will provide a gain in being able to split the lower part of High range.

In other words the highest gear may allow you to run 80 mph, but if you never run over 70 it's a waste and takes away from the gearing you do use.

I will ditto another's point regarding cam or more so the tune in the ECM and where your efficiency peak is at RPM wise. You may want to optimize that for your highest gear and preferred cruising speed for best results.

Perhaps a non-overdriven 13 would be the correct choice if the OP has low numeric gears? (not familiar with what is available for his setup)