Is anybody still doing a 10-15K oil change?

oil change at 10,000 miles. I went from delvac to delo.

 

Why did you switch from delvac to delo?

 

If chsnging at 12k they are all going ti be good. I like Delo.

 

All the major brands of oils are good. Might be slight differences in how a particular engine takes to them, but they all work well. Good enough that you could probably change brand every oil change with no problem. The API classifications do not allow much leeway in motor oil formulations. In years gone by, the various motor oil producers could do some very interesting things with additives and such in their oil formulations. That has not been the case with CI-4+ or CJ-4 oils. With DPF's and other little goodies that they have to be aware of, they can't play games with oil formulations any more. Makes it kinda nice for all of us. We can select a major brand that offers the best value.

 

the co that are all fleets their insurance and mant.are the smallest on their list profits #one it dont matter to them if it blows they replace the truck turn one in get 3 new ones lol you cant a 0/0p to a mega fleet whole different game /most new or semi new drivers even owners etend their mant.to the max means the truck well be fixed to run just down time /sometimes its just a good break for the driver too.we owned last a 1993 pro seris.det,60 ser.over a million before ever had troubles but changed every 25k and allways did ch,ck sold tractor 1n 1997 still second owner no major trouble very worthy mule . plumbcrazzy

 

Where do you get 15$ oil sample? I have to pay almost double that.

 

I bought four of these today, they were $27 apiece.... thoughts? http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/037429.pdf

 

I was always partial to Delvac, myself.

If you want to do your own quick analysis after changing oil filters, you'll need either a tool for cutting oil filters (you can purchase them at NAPA or Caterpillar, but they're quite expensive) or a cutting pipe wrench, a cutting implement... sidecutters are often cited, but I prefer a set of tin snips, and a mall magnet.
Take your filter off, cut off the top. Pull out the filter core. Cut a square section of fabric from the filter core. Wrap that in a shop towel/paper towel/rag and squeeze to get some of the oil out. Unfold that fabric section and examine it, especially in the folds. If you see metal, run a magnet over it to see if the metal is a magnetic type or not. That'll give you an idea of where the problem lies. Not as thorough or precise as an all out analysis, but it's handy in a pinch.

 

Speedco will do one for $19.95 on the spot. I generally don't use Speedco for anything, but I have compared their oil sample machine results to ones sent into a lab, and the results are pretty close.