Espar heater

Maybe. Mine stops every few weeks without any visible reason. Simply "flame not detected". And you are forced to disassemble it, clean, etc. That sucks.

 

actually that was two words.

 

I new you wouldn't have objection on the merit.

 

My Espar D2 that came with my Thermoking Tri-Pac unit SUCKS! The replacement parts for it are INSANELY overpriced!
Furthermore, I have gone back to the Thermoking dealer who installed it as well as 2 other dealers who can't fix it and have it working for long before it starts smoking and flaming out while running at low speed. They blame the fuel, they blame me, they blame the installer. They will blame everything but their lemon Espar heater. They are, however, very happen to sell you a new glow pin and screen, and fuel line screen, and flame tube and gaskets -- all together for more than half the cost of a compketely new Espar heater! They will also charge quote you 4hrs labor at $100/hr just to replace the flame tube, not including the $300 parts cost! A glow pin is usually offered for $150 plus another $100 for the 1hr to replace that.

I have taught myself to do a complete Espar overhaul in 2 hours or less, as a result! The glow pin is usually fine and can be cleaned and reused. The glow pin screen and fuel line screen needs replacement every year. The flame tube will need a removal and cleaning of the carbon, ash, and gunk every year! You will need new gaskets. Also, inspect and clean or replace as necessary, the exhaust pipe.

I have used different diesel types and kerosene to run this heater. They ALL will clog it up soon enough!
And Thermoking has NO sensible, cost-effective answers. They just try to sell you a new one or milk you dry with padded labor charges!

You are better off rigging up a "poor man's APU" with a gasoline generator, ceramic heater, and RV roof mounted AC.
A $10000 Tripac will take over 2 yrs to break even on the initial cost, but the parts and maintenance costs(if done at TK dealers) will suck up any net gain in fuel savings.

 

Save yourself time when you first notice it smoking upon start up disconnect fuel line and put it in a jug of kerosene run for a few hours and it's clean .. Some guys are tired of the bio fuel causing issues and install a seperate tank and run it on a 50 / 50 mix kerosene diesel

 

I've owned these units for 11 years now, yes they are a bit tricky. Here's a few key points

1) Installation - Fuel pump must be installed correctly, wires must be free from rubbing, both intake and exhaust hoses must be routed in such a way that they do not get plugged with snow.

2) Driver error - Make sure the pipes are free of snow before firing the unit.

3) Rebuilding - The instructions aren't that clear on this, but there's an orifice at the top of the combustion tube in between the screen and glow pin. If it is plugged partially or fully with carbon this is the cause of most white smoke issues, low speed flameout, no start, etc. Also you do not need to change the pin very often like the other poster said, however when removing it use a wrench from underneath (you have to pull the whole unit out to do this) rather than using their goofy tool from the top. Also I use red high temp silicon for the combustion side gasket rather than that green gasket they use. They have a tendency to crack letting combustion gases into the sleeper. I can solve almost all white smoke/ low speed flameout/ no start issues with about 2 hours and about $20. New screen, fan gasket, red silicon, and maybe some fuel line. Occasional kerosene use is good too.

4) Thermostat - the stock one sucks plain and simple. Get a digital one. Money well spent.

 

Um, im kinda thinking that may be the problem. Are you qualified to do an overhaulon it without messing it up? I have a wabasco (very similar to esbar) and it ran reliably all winter long. I'v never needed to replace pipes, glow lugs, etc. Do you run it in the summer? Your suposed to fire it up every 2 weeks and run it for an hour to prevent problems. This includeds in the summer. Just do it with the window open when your not gonna be int he truck for a little while. As far as maintenance and failure, these are normaly way more trouble free then an apu, or a genset.

 

I've read the tech manuals, read many forums on the topic, and have a good history of self-learning. Enough so that fixing it myself is a much more cost effective solution than paying Thermoking's formally trained parts replacers.
I've seen how little their results are for the dollar spent, firsthand.

Thanks for the tips. I welcome any and all DIY tips for sure!

 

Have had 2 Webasto airtop 2000's on this truck in 14 years. Most common problem for me is low voltage signal prevents startup. I reach over, start the truck and then start the heater, then shut truck off. Runs all night after that. No
Internal problems ever.

 

my webatso will fire up with only 11 volts. But as the inighter gets older, im sure it will take Little more juice to get um to fire.