And after that long an us list some people still feel it's better used than new?
aside all that I did not see any dealer/shop/towing/hotels in that short list.
btw, at over 1 million miles, your fuel hoses must be swollen, S cas on brakes need to be replaced, chambers could be soon to go also, carry those chamber dish if you can repair them yourself if not, a brand new crake chamber is 80 bucks, get it done at home. U joints also, the hubs and axles, specially the bearings on them
Before they go out on you on the road and then guess you either get towed or get Dracula bring the parts and drain your money on side repair.
suspension bushings and shocks could be also gone, sleeper airbags, how about wires corroded that you can't see unless you can crawl in that attic? Pull the levelerfor the sleeper airbags out and let it raise up, put a 4x4x4 between the chassis and sleeper and crcrawl in there, check for rust, hoses, wires, snakes and wildlife.
change differentials and transmission lube. Check clutch and readjust as needed.
Flush radiator and refill with that extended life red holy water.
door seals could be redone if you get chill winds coming united through the sides.
that U joint the steering wheel has should be worn the heck of it, get it replaced, it'll be a lot less anoint for sure.
if after 8 hours of sitting on it driving the seat stinks you should get it replaced or you'll find yourself at the doctor being look in your an us for debris and leakage.
the steering wheel needs to be really cleaned or your hands will scuff and bleed from #### accumulated on it for years. Now ask around if you never heard of this.
I hope you got a new mattress on that too.
We'll I got to go back to work, otherwise I'd be at this day and night.. seriously.
Good luck driver, if you bought it get it paid off ASAP before it digs into your pockets, you can be successful al you just need is to fatten your savings account and expect what you already know is coming.
Million mile Truck what needs Repaired ?
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by tommymonza, Feb 1, 2015.
Page 5 of 6
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Maintenance: 8cpm
Fuel: 50cpm
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Operating costs: 61cpm
I would be very surprised if you could get down to 61cpm with a new truck
I will say my maintenance costs have been 17cpm over the last 50,000, but in addition to minor repairs, I replaced air lines, the 5th wheel, the exhaust, switched to a K&N air filter, & converted to super singles (all planned at time of purchase)
Known big ticket items "due" to fail:
transmission (original)
3rd axle (original)
engine (800,000 on inframe)Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
Lucar Thanks this. -
I would guess that a new truck would run you 20 cents a mile in depreciation and maintenance and minor repairs if you were to trade it in every 5 years or 500,000
What do you think of that figure?Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
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[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]New Truck:[/TD]
[TD]Old Truck:[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Truck:[/TD]
[TD]-$127,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$15,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]FET:[/TD]
[TD]-$15,240.00[/TD]
[TD]$0.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]CA sales tax:[/TD]
[TD]-$10,160.00[/TD]
[TD]-$1,200.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Interest Paid (5 year, 6%, $25.4k down):[/TD]
[TD]-$20,315.95[/TD]
[TD]$0.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]-$172,715.95[/TD]
[TD]-$16,200.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Market Price after 5 years/500K:[/TD]
[TD]$60,000.00[/TD]
[TD]$10,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Total Depreciation: (inc fees)[/TD]
[TD]-$112,715.95[/TD]
[TD]-$6,200.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Annual Depreciation: (excl fees)[/TD]
[TD]-$13,400.00[/TD]
[TD]-$1,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Maintenance:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 1[/TD]
[TD]-$2,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$15,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 2[/TD]
[TD]-$3,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$10,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 3[/TD]
[TD]-$4,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$10,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 4[/TD]
[TD]-$5,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$10,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 5[/TD]
[TD]-$7,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$10,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]-$21,000.00[/TD]
[TD]-$55,000.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD]8.25mpg[/TD]
[TD]7.5mpg[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Fuel @ $3.50/gal:[/TD]
[TD]-$212,121.21[/TD]
[TD]-$233,333.33[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Physical Damage Insurance:[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]$2.5 per $1K per month, $2K deduct.[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 1[/TD]
[TD]-$3,870.00[/TD]
[TD]-$510.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 2[/TD]
[TD]-$3,468.00[/TD]
[TD]-$480.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 3[/TD]
[TD]-$3,066.00[/TD]
[TD]-$450.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 4[/TD]
[TD]-$2,664.00[/TD]
[TD]-$420.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Year 5[/TD]
[TD]-$2,262.00[/TD]
[TD]-$390.00[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Operating Expenses:[/TD]
[TD]-$361,167.16[/TD]
[TD]-$296,783.33[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Operating Expenses (per mile):[/TD]
[TD]-$0.72[/TD]
[TD]-$0.59[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Income tax savings @ 20% effective:[/TD]
[TD]$72,233.43[/TD]
[TD]$59,356.67[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Total Operating Cost:[/TD]
[TD]-$288,933.73[/TD]
[TD]-$237,426.67[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Total Operating Cost (per mile):[/TD]
[TD]-$0.58[/TD]
[TD]-$0.47[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Maintenance cost figures come from Selectrucks ( http://selectrucks.com/truckingtips/maintenance.aspx ) except that I added $5,000 to the 1st year for the used truck to cover things you fix right at/after purchase. All other assumptions listed.Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
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Wow that really spells it out Thanks for taking the time to show that
Where does the income tax savings come into? don't understand that part of the equation DbleYellow
So for an extra 750 a month you can have a new truck every 5 years that hopefully you will not be wrenching on or spending time or money doing large repairs'
An extra 200 miles a week would make up that extra cost.
Enlightening.
Now if you could only buy a new truck that was Reliable.
Guess there is always the GlidersLast edited: Feb 2, 2015
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I agree with you. If you buy new truck pay 150.000 for it and after 500.000 miles it gonna start to brake and you pay for the like you listed in your repairs. Bad thing new truck depreciates in 2-3 years and cost half like 70.000-80000.
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But a new truck costs $361,167.16 to operate, so you net $638,832.84 before taxes. A used truck costs $296,783.33 to operate, so you net $703,216.67 before taxes. So instead of paying $200,000 in taxes, you actually pay $127,766.57 with a new truck (a tax savings of $72,233.43) and $140,643.33 for a used truck (a tax savings of $59,356.67).
Those tax savings, if fully utilized, lower your operating costs to $288,933.73 new & $237,426.67 old.
I think the 2016 trucks should be reasonably reliable if idling is kept down. Unlike when SCR was brand new, now dealerships mostly know how to fix them. My main issue is that the dealerships are so overloaded with work that even a simple repair can take days to fix because they just can't get to it right away and your shiny new warranty isn't any good at an independent repair shop.
That situation should improve as time goes on, but for now I'm happy to be driving a truck that doesn't go into "limp" mode in the middle of Minnesota...Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
Rocks Thanks this. -
Went to Peterbilt to get a part Monday and trucks wating to check into the shop were in a line two wide thru the parking lot and out into the street. Made me want to get a new one, one call and I can get my old truck in the shop usually the same day. I don't run a lot of miles in a year but having the truck ready when a good load comes up is important.
Can't have big payments and have a truck in the shop for a week for a minor warranty repair.double yellow and tommymonza Thank this. -
at a million miles i don't think the question is so much what needs to be replaced but what has not been replaced. no two million mile trucks have the same to do lists on them. by a million a lot of everything has probably already been done once if not twice.
some things to pay attention to on a million mile truck are
*everything rubber
hoeses belts seals motor mounts suspension bushings
*supsention
bushings, shocks, king pins, ball joints ect
*motor
has it been in-framed? dyno blow by oil samples. if it has not been in framed just plan for one out of the gates, you might get 4-5 years might be tomorrow
fuel lines air hoses ect
turbo
*driveline
u joints carrier bearing rear ends? has the transmission been rebuilt? has the clutch been done?
*exaust
rusted out general condition ect
*cooling system.
radiator
water pump
air to air
has the coolant filter been changed regularly ph levels monitored?
*breaks
s-cams drums
if all that checks out its probably a good truck. rear ends and transmissions can last well over 1 mill if driven by experienced drivers. when looking at a million plus mile truck its all about condition condition condition.
get repair records and look threw them carfullytommymonza and BASARAB Thank this. -
this is nothing against double yellow just an observation of the reality that is currently taking place in the trucking industry,
And Thank you Double Yellow for posting all the great Information that you take the time to do.
What all those figures do not show for a new truck is all the down time waiting for warranty work to be done.
I have not even crawled in a truck yet but i have had my butt handed to me over what could have been 3 very productive seasons in the marine business by brand new motors that the manufacture was using me for a test dummy.
Lost wages will make the 105 an hour you would pay a mechanic to fix your old beat million mile truck look like Chump change.
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