Kevin Rutherfrauds $200000 Signature glider truck has complete engine failure!!!

I *believe* you shouldn't appreciably shorten the life of the engine if you stay below the manufacturers' condemnation thresholds:


Those thresholds tend to be flagged as "1" and "2" by Polaris, but lately KR has been telling people to keep running the oil to until it gets even worse (particularly fuel dilution).

 

The particles do run through the motor again and again, until they finally get bypassed. I forget the figures on how long it takes to run all the oil through the bypass.

I have no idea if it's snake oil or not, but I figured I'd try it out. Doubt I'd ever be able to provide results to anyone, but I'm changing a filter and regularly sending the oil to a lab to hopefully catch a small problem before a big one developes.

Here's a cool vid on the FS2500 I'm running.

http://youtu.be/klcBRnyCSvo

I wish I could find the pics or vid of the bypass filter, where they kept dropping the oil pan and measuring the sludge as it slowly was filtered out.

 

I appreciate your proper use of believe, but lets put on our thinking caps.

Let's say one guy has 60,000 miles on his oil, tests okay. Another guy is on his 4th oil change every 15,000. Now do you really think the 60,000 mile guys oil is "just as good" as the 4th change guy ?

I don't *believe* that it is, I appreciate his oil tested within approved specs, doesn't mean it's as good as new. It just means it's not quite garbage yet.

 

It takes ~ 2 hours for the 10 gallons of oil to cycle through the OPS bypass. Now some of that oil may have gone through twice while others not at all, but, on average, a little under 2 hours for all the oil to be filtered by the bypass...

And some 7 micron particles will be caught by the standard filters, even if rated as 15...


For more discussion, see post 1313: http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...ure-glider-truck-post4537619.html#post4537619

 

Sorry to post late. Sorry if I have not read all 141 pages.

Somebody disassembled one of those Turbo3000 things.
Apparently the ends can be unscrewed.
It is only a $200 pipe with two vanes of metal, apparently aluminum, stuck by interference fit inside that don't (can't) do anything.
The pieces of metal seem to be there only to fool people who open it into thinking there is something useful inside.
It may be hoped that such nosy people who dare to look inside to find out the magic trade secrets will not pull the metal vanes out for fear of ruining the device.
It was said by the person that took it apart to contain a piece of 1/4" tubing acting as a fuel restrictor.
Tell me, does the big truck gulp so much fuel that a 2-3" long 1/4" pipe is going to reduce the average fuel used meaningfully?
So, whatever they are saying about it saving fuel looks like a bald faced monkeyshine where any sort of general truck use is concerned.
It's no better than the 'gas saving fuel line magnet' sham sold to 4-wheelers.
-- Except you apparently don't even get free magnets with this thing. (oops truck drivers get the short end again..)
I defy the manufacturer, or either of those three sales people, to explain how it saves fuel.
http://www.classadrivers.com/forum/truck-maintenance/30679-turbo-3000-absolute-garbage.html
and
https://www.google.com/search?q=turbo+3000+scam&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Sorry to rant, I hate seeing honest or non-engineering people cheated by stories full of codswallop.

 

I don't know about you, but I'm going to sleep like a baby with that 10% extra particle filtration.

 

I believe the oil is either good enough to do the job, or it isn't. And I think the manufacturers have a better idea than most what threshold is good enough. If you were to run a steady stream of brand new oil inside one engine and used serviceable oil inside another, I suspect you'd get a million plus miles out of both (but I'll give you the one with new oil probably should last a bit longer).

For me, personally, I haven't yet run oil past 25k on my truck. I probably will go to 30k on this oil, but I'm in no hurry to set records.

Folks like Dice, on the other hand, seem to be doing OK going 100k (without bypass filter). But keep in mind he's a 10mpg truck. I'm high 8's. KR's theory that oil change intervals ought to be proportional to mpg may have some merit.

 

How so..???

I would be more inclined to think Oil change intervals are more dependant on Engine hours than Truck miles..

 

Well, I can tell from used oil samples that the bypass on mine is doing something right. Without it, at 25,000 miles / 500 hours, whichever comes first, soot levels approach 2. With the bypass during the same interval, soot levels average around 0.3, and sometimes less. I just run the same bypass filter and change it when I do the oil changes at 25,000/500. is it helping? I would say it sure isn't hurting to take all that soot out of the oil while it is being generated. I didn't get it for some long drain interval contest. I just want to keep much of the crud from running thru my engine repeatedly over a oil drain interval. Those soot particles can bond a create larger soot particles that can have a detrimental effect. A stock filter might filter to 15-21 microns, whereas a bypass is going to filter out down to 1-3 microns. It is particles that fit in-between what the bypass catches and the full flow stock filter catches that can cause problems. Sure, a bypass filter adds around $25 to a complete oil change, but I make up for that by getting a good quality synthetic blend oil cheaper than many folks can get major brands of similar oil at Wally World and it is delivered free to my house with free oil sample kits and analysis to boot. So, in the overall scheme of things, running a bypass is very cost effective to me.

As for whether mpg has some determination on oil change intervals, many OEM's seem to think so. In Cat's lube manual for the C15, they say to change at 15,000 miles if getting below 6 average mpg or change at 25,000 miles if getting above 6 mpg average. Even Detroit makes mention that if one is getting substantially low mpg averages, to change oil more frequently. So on that issue, KR might not be all that far off the reservation.

 

You are right, hours is more important than miles, but so is fuel consumption. I know the last Cummins ISX Owners Manual I looked at had recommended drain intervals adjusted for mpg. So does some other manufacturer's info, like these Detroit Diesel documents, "NOTE:The oil drain intervals are based on engine hours and fuel consumption."
ENGINE REQUIREMENTS — LUBRICATING OIL, FUEL AND FILTERS pg. 4-4 (22)
DD15 Maintenance Intervals

Fuel consumption tells you how hard the engine worked for a given time/distance. I am assuming that most new cars that have oil change information on the dash work on that principle.