Kevin Rutherfrauds $200000 Signature glider truck has complete engine failure!!!

In the 80s he built a car that radically changed what you thought about engines. He pre-heated the intake air and used a turbo to keep the air flow the right direction, not to provide boost. His theory was the hotter air more effectively vaporized the gasoline than a venturi did. With the fuel completely vaporized, the compustion was much more effecient, and was claiming v8 performance with a Chevy 4 in a Pontiac Fiero.

That's the kind of idea KR thinks he is coming up with for his Signature Glider, but with Smokey, that's not koolaid!

I found this article from sometime after 2006; http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1009-what-ever-happened-to-smokeys-hot-vapor-engine/

 

Poppy, my great-grandfather always said if a day goes by and you don't learn something it's a sad day.
Have you ever used a mist of brake fluid too quieten a chirping fan belt? Works great. Brake fluid is also good to make oil seals swell up and quit leaking temporarily, in automatic transmissions and such, but only like one half pint. To be on more on topic, I personally doubt that PP is using any high-tech cleaner inside the engines, but I have been wrong before.

 

Ya man at any cost, what you got?

 

I wouldn't use that solution. For years I've heard about jiffy lube destroying engines with a chemical solution clean out.

The way I see it, the gunk and sludge deposits formed slowly, building up by small particles over time. Just imagine thick chunks of gunk and sludge working their way off and trying to all find their way to the drain plug. You'd get blocked passages, and build up before it could make it all the way down.

 

I'll never pull a truck I own into Pittsburg Power. After seeing the tear down photos, and everything else. I wouldn't advise my worst enemy to do business there.

 

Driver, you have an obvious nutritional deficiency! Here:




That should take care of the problem!

 

Now your just being silly and argumentative. Ok, we get it you'll find any reason to justify not using a bypass.

 

Gunk and sludge is the sign of an engine that wasn't maintained someone cutting corners on oil changes. My motor when it was torn down at 1.1 million had no sludge in it. I pulled the oil pan off last fall at the 100k mark and there was no sludge. I don't put ATF in the oil and never use magic additives to clean anything out. Not necessary. I just change it before I hit 12,500 miles without fail every time. With regular 15w40 dino.

 

But a engine the factory shop says is showing basically zero ware (after 1.5 mil) is that worth the 300 dollar filter setup????? Guess not Pete did not install it !

 

Well I didn't know about the ATF, but when Dad and I had our small engine shop we started using a product called SeaFoam. We have had extremely good results with it, and no I have no ties to it in any way. If you take a lawnmower or such to a shop with carb problems, a lot of them will first run a dose of it thru, and id say 60-70% of the time it either takes care of or at least helps the problem. it is petroleum based, designed for cleaning fuel systems injectors carbs gas or diesel, is used in injector cleaning machines, and also is designed to help clean you engine. it works wonders on sticking lifters and we have had engines apart before and after running it in the crankcase and the difference was amazing. I don't run it full time but every time I change oil on our vehicles or farm machinery ill dump it in a few weeks ahead of time. it was also one of the only products available for quite a while that will dry up water in your fuel. I may sound like a fanatic, but I have seen it work over and over again.