How many miles do you run before you change your oil?

Taxi: What are you running and what are your plans? New and sell it at end of warranty then do the longest allowable type program. If you plan on running it a couple million I am with 315 and Fajo. Synthetics and 50,000 mile changes is kind of a wild card to me, do they change filters between oil changes? We used to change rod and main bearings on a schedule like oil. If you expected to make 900,000 before inframe replace the bearings at 450,000. If you change the oil and it uses none for 16,000 and then uses a gallon a week it's time for a change. Although the crank floats in oil do you not suppose it has a limited number of revolutions it will make in its life time? If the engine will do the same job shifting at a lower RPM ( without lugging) as running to a higher RPM every revolution saved is time added on the life of the engine. Sorry that is not a direct answer but the answer may not be the same for everyone. Sounds like EZ has a program that works for him learned the hard way. Some other people were taught new math which I do not understand. How much can you afford to lean? If the crank is good an engine can normally be affordably imframed multiple times. I was taught" take care of the crank and the crank will take care of the bank!

 

Straight to the point +++

 

Well, one has to live within their comfort level. If one wants to go 100K between oil changes or change oil every week, it is their choice. They have to determine if it fits within their comfort level and whatever maintenance costs. I don't really try to sway folks one way or the other, except to tell them to take a look at what the folks who built the motor think is right and go from there.

I base mine on a miles/hours thing. 25,000 miles or 500 hours, whichever comes first. Grease every other week or 5000 miles, whichever comes first. That is my particular comfort level. OEM recommended drain at the time they built it was 15,000 miles / 300 hrs. But things have changed. We now have CJ-4 oils instead of CI-4 oils and we have ULSD fuel now. Both of which make a difference in oil condition over time. So I extended the drains up to the this time frame and am comfortable. Oil samples sent in most every oil change. Sample testing is free from my oil supplier.

 

10,000 miles.

 

I have 2012 dd15. I change the oil every 15k m. I don't believe oil testing procedures.

 

I believe in oil sampling.....
did a sample and a week later got a call from gulf coast fillters, that's who the sample went to.... they asked me a few questions, then told me my EGR cooler was going to go out in 15,000-20,000 miles because of what the sample showed.... 22,000 miles later it went out

because I know it was going to go I put EXTRA aside to cover it and was ready when it did

 

I don't see any connection between egr cooler and used oil quality. egr cooler is cooling exhaust gases only. if you have bad egr cooler the engine will have high exhaust temp. or it will loose coolant. that's all.

 

sorry your wrong and it show just how little you understand about oil sampling and what the lab is looking at

oil samples SENT to a good lab will tell you all kinds of things about your motor..... bad injector or injector cup.... a bearing going bad and if it's a rod, main or cam....head gasket, is your turbo going. air compressor, how are your rings..... and the EGR COOLER are all checked with a good lab....

all the lubricated parts in and on the motor are made of different metals..... a good lab checks for each one.... example if iron starts to go UP it's main bearing... soot is rings..... potassium AND sodium is the EGR COOLER....

yes I know there is no oil in the egr cooler BUT do you even understand what a egr cooler does....egr (exhaust gas RECICLATION) cooler... cools the exhaust gas BEFORE part of it is returned to the intake..... that's what the egr valves do is devert some of the exhaust back into the intake and the reason it needs to be cooled 1st... when the cooler start to go (15-30,000 miles before it goes out) trace minerals from the cooler start to come off and some of them go back in to the intake (remember what EGR stands for) and get burned with the fuel.... remember you have soot in the oil right, well where do you think that comes from, every time a piston fires a small amount of exhaust gas gets past the rings and so does the trace minerals from the egr cooler

the junk INSHOP oil sample testing is just that JUNK.... you need to send then to a REAL LAB to have a full oil analysis done and it needs to be done at every oil change so you can SEE over time when things start to change.... best 3 are #1 Golf Cost (about $35) #2 OPS (about $20) #3 Mobil ($20)

 

And I think that many folks misunderstand that oil sampling primarily involves tracking trends over time. A motor and the oil will exhibit patterns. When the pattern gets deviated from, there is something causing that. This is why the labs will have additional info on a oil sample, like graphs showing trend lines for various things based on results from previous samples.

Oil sample test results are somewhat of an art form along with being nerdy scientific. The results paint a picture, one just has to know what it means.

I have seen the lab the oil company, whose oil l use, actually uses for testing samples. Was there getting a tour of the plant by the Chairman of the Board of Schaeffer oil in St. Louis a few weeks ago. I am quite comfortable that samples are tested with high standards. Nice thing is, they are free! When I order a drum of oil, they provide me with free sample kits and free analysis. They want to know how their product is holding up as much as I do.

 

hehe... I don't believe it. sounds scientific BS. sorry