Convetional 15w40 vs Synthetic?

How much are you paying for a 55 gal drum of the Schaeffer? I like their oil but when I got quotes the prices were crazy high.

I can get a drum of rotella or delo for under $600 and the deere plus 50 I am running now is $800 a drum. Schaeffer was close to $1000.

 

my '15 cascadia has the 50,000 mile drain interval, 10w-30 synblend is strictly required for warranty, no other oil grade. Definitely easier starts in cold weather. I use rotella mostly, but can use delo or delvac. Fuel mileage is the biggest factor I think. I get great mileage, slowing down when possible saves a lot of money in the pocket.

 

And you are comparing the Schaeffer diesel oils that are synthetic blends with Rotella or Delo conventionals? To make the discussion realistic, you have to compare similar products. I can get a Ford or Chevy pickup a lot cheaper than a Freightliner semi, but they are not the same product. There is no way you are getting Rotella T5 or Delvac Elite at under $600 for a 55 drum, except maybe on a going out of business sale. When I said as cheap as Wally World pricing, it was for a similar product like Rotella T5 or Delvac Elite, both of which are synthetic blends like the Schaeffer stuff is. And do the others you mention also provide free at home delivery and throw in free used oil sample kits and analysis as part of the deal? Time is money also, and I don't have to go get the stuff. It is waiting for me when I get home.

 

T6.....for the last 7-8 years. The cold weather start protection is enough of a reason for me.

Change oil every 15-20k . It's been like $21 a gallon at crap mart for ever....

 

That is a good price on the T6. That full synthetic is similar to the Schaeffer 9000 full synthetic price. No matter what you use, no need to pay more than you have to. I have no bias regarding brands. I just look for great quality at a great value.

Yeah, it is a dramatic difference in cold weather between a 10w30 and 15w40. Too early to tell about any fuel savings since I have been using a 10w30 in my Series 60, but the engine is much smoother and starts so easy in cold weather and doesn't give the perception of not wanting "to get out of bed" and get to work for the day. First UOA on the 10w30 will be going in towards the end of this week. Will be able to compare the result with 15w40 I was using previously. That will be the real test.

 

I do 15-20k miles.... But I would be considered severe service .

 

No... But I haul heavy short loads so your milage may very.

 

With the current level of oil refining, the substantive differences between conventional and synthetic base oils have narrowed in recent years. The only appreciable way I would run a full synthetic is if I was really extending the drains beyond anything the OEM had in mind. I am not in that camp. My Series 60, based on a number of UOA's over time on a lot of oil changes, seems to like the 20,000-25,000 mile / 400-500 hr OCI. That is a little more than the Detroit recommended 15,000/300hr interval on the pre-EGR Series 60, but not that much. So, I am in the synthetic blend camp. I get the best of both worlds. Yes, each type of base oil brings some beneficial characteristics to the party. And the price is very cost effective compared to going with a full synthetic. I save the full synthetic stuff for my trans and diffs. Nothing against those that choose to use full synthetics in their engines. I love having all these choices and folks can make up their mind what they want to use and what helps them to sleep well at night. We have so many great choices available that one almost has to try and screw up to do so.

 

I am going to 12,000 mile oil changes from the 10,000 that I have done for the last 17 years. only because I have been doing oil analyst the last 2 oil changes. that is also a first for me. will see how well the different oils hold up to my engine & my driving. I will most likely go about 5-6 months & compare results. my first oil analyst showed some problems at only 10,000 miles, but after looking over a few things, I think it had nothing to do with the oil or the miles on the oil, had to do with dirt, grit, e.t.c. getting in the oil fill tube, that I was unaware of. also had a air boot off, which may have contributed to the silcon in the oil sample. so going to keep track of it all, then I will decide what changes to make.

 

Older pre-egr's use conventional; egr motors have an increase in sulphur trioxide compounds compared to older egr motors.

Synthetics are better than organic oil @ trapping & holding those sulphur trioxide compounds.

so, whats the real meaning if i use organics i my egr motor...prolonged useage has noted the seals in the turbo, air compressor to become degraded faster. where you'll notice increase oil seepage.