Retorquing the Lugnuts

Is that the only size needed on trucks? I see that there are socket sets out there for wheels (although the torque multiplier set with several sockets costs about the same). Guess I have seen smaller sizes on some hub caps.

 

Another service manual says to retorque after the first 50-100 mi, then every 10,000 miles (that would be a long week).

 

I was just reading some notes on differences between those from wheelmakers. Doubt I'll see too many stud piloted wheels, if any (I hope).

 

Then the manual for a tractor I was in said check them once a week, again. Maybe aluminum wheels could use more attention (well, I still don't have a torque wrench, so they'll have to wait). It isn't like they bring it in once a week for a retorque, but hey that's what is says in the glove box.

 

Speaking of more attention, I'd seen these loose wheel nut indicators around, but didn't know what they were on there for. Except they'd add up to costing more than a good torque wrench on multiple trucks (and I'd still need the wrench to install them).


I've reconsidered buying a low end clicker though, they all get mixed reviews, and aren't exactly cheap. Guess a mid range break-back type would be okay, and easier to use around running trucks. It's between a 500 and 750 max ft-lb for those, each are actually priced the same (one's on sale). I've read that using torque wrenches mid scale is most accurate, but then they get longer as the torque rating increases, so I may have to compromise with the relatively compact one, which should be farily accurate at 450-475. Then if I had to torque heavier wheels, maybe a multiplier would keep it manageable, as for being portable (I'd rather it be hard to overtorque them, so that's plan-b). Not that using a foot or so longer one would be too cumbersome, I'd still have to pull it out of my ###... behind the seat or something, or I'd forget it there (can't have that).


I was looking at a split beam type that breaks down into its case, yet I don't want to assemble and disassemble it each time (a little too compact in that case, more wear and tear somewhere, that's where it would break I bet), and it could be more difficult to read a scale on the side or listen for a click. They say it's better because you don't have to unwind its tension after use, then give you a small case to screw with instead. Also they say it's less likely to lose calibration with fewer moving parts, but then recommend checking it's calibration or servicing it just as often. I don't know, they get good reviews too (from who knows who), I've found a few videos of the breaking angle type, and none for this kind (ones of different sizes at play, 1-1/2 arm length, 2 arm length, 2 leg length)...

 

I still wouldn't trust them though, murphy's law and they're plastic (those ones are about touching each other, might not move actually).