Retorquing the Lugnuts

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by camionneur, Feb 5, 2016.

  1. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Thanks, well it's hard to tell what the recommended torque is above 500 anyway, because the operator manual I looked at listed different wheel types as possible components, with different torque ratings or ranges (mostly 450-500 ft-lb, maybe 750-900). I'll just have to go with the typical maximum there, which appears to fit by description (with measurements I might also take), and leave bigger tasks for the service pros. This should be enough to keep 'em on otherwise (or better than nothing), I probably can't be sure, beyond a few specs in the manual, or carry around the high range shop equipment either (a line to draw somewhere between safe and sorry).

    I was reading that Ontario may hold drivers accountable for ignoring this type of maintenance, when wheels fly off, as if they were equipped to do much about it (what, run around and try to make everyone else do their thing, so much for driving). Not that I'd want wheels to get away from me, personally, it's simpler to equip myself for a double check routine than to whine and cry wolf about the flawless engineering that most anyone (who I could track down and talk to, especially after hours) considers a non issue, versus a roadside emergency, until they get around to changing another tire, without following up on it, like leaving a note about their policy was an afterthought, on me, well if I had a wrench maybe... or I wouldn't know if they did that retorque (apart from forwarding their note to whoever might have called them, and they should have discussed this already, so I doubt it gets back to me, wherever those wheels happen to be), until it's too late. Tedious after all, is a death toll never the moral of a story? Then choose your own adventure (that would be going "nuts").

    Other things I've seen lately are socket extensions of different thicknesses that flex at preset torques for impact wrenches, so they can't overtorque a nut, and torque adapters that plug into non measuring wrenches at the socket, but those don't seem to go high enough in range for this, and you'd have to try reading from one end of the wrench while standing back at the other, not too practical (maybe with a lighted telescoping inspection mirror, and both arms shaking).
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
    Reason for edit: Trying to picture myself with any of this stuff, kind of bizarre.
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  3. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    Are you a company driver? Look, for the money you'd spend on a low end $700-$800 torque wrench you would be much better off just stoping by a Speedco and having them check torque. I will put a torque wrench on all the wheels once a year just to have a look see when I'm down for a few weeks fixing every little thing that needs it.

    And, not surprisingly, none of them have ever needed re-torquing. You're over thinking this. They should be torqued when you mount a wheel and then after you've driven it a couple of hundred yards, re-torqued again. No you do not have to drive 50-100 miles to seat it. To the end of your driveway will do it. That's it. Re-torque it then and leave it alone. If you notice any rust streaks at some point then take a closer look.
     
    camionneur Thanks this.
  4. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    As long as I'm not overtorquing it, should work out either way. ;)
     
  5. Pool6710

    Pool6710 Medium Load Member

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    I've never had lug nuts come loose. Drive on driver, most don't even Pretrip there truck every day, your overthinking it.
     
  6. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    You say that as if I made all of this up.
     
  7. Pool6710

    Pool6710 Medium Load Member

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    You did make all of this up, you only need to hold a steering wheel, not a trq wrench.
     
  8. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
    Reason for edit: geekin' it
  9. Pool6710

    Pool6710 Medium Load Member

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    camionneur Thanks this.
  10. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    One of the main causes of loose wheels is dirt. They roll em over in a shop floor and don't wipe them off before installing them. Torque them till hell comes home but when the dirt works out your loose. Some hub pilots are easy to not have flush to, when getting tire work those are the big two to watch for. Also when retorqing if they aren't jacked up what's the use. Kinda like torquing a budd outter and not the inner.
     
    BoxCarKidd and camionneur Thank this.
  11. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    I'd say if they're repeatedly undertorqued on me, then at least putting a wrench on them would be a diagnostic exercise, and I could write it up. That's all I'm really looking to do, basic diagnostics on what is said to be a high maintenance system in books (et ceteræ), and no I didn't make this up, but it's fine with me if all I find are fully torqued wheels too (not a long process, would only take few).

    [​IMG]

    Truck wheels will revolve around five million times in ten thousand miles, so checking the torque on those each week would be approximately once per million revolutions (doesn't sound all that excessive to me).
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
    Reason for edit: Wheel see :)
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