Time on pretrip?

§392.7 IS the pre-trip inspection or that's what the Subject Index lists it as.

The post trip is back in §396.11 Driver Vehicle inspection report's.
(a) Every motor carrier shall require it's drivers to report, and every driver shall prepare a report in writing at the COMPLETION of each day's work on each vehicle operated and the report shall cover at least the following parts:
- All what LogRus listed plus
- Wheels and Rims
- Emergency equipment

Now here's the catch 22

§396.1 Scope

General- Every motor carrier, it's officers, DRIVERS, agents, representatives, and employees direcly concerned with the inspection or maintenanace of motor vehicles shall comply and be conversant with the rules of this part.

§396.3 Inspection,repair and maintenance

General- Every motor carrier shall systematically inspect,repair,and maintain. or cause to be systematically inspected.repaired, and maintained, all motor vehicles subject to it's control.

(1)Parts and accessories shall be in safe and proper operating condition at all times. These include those specified in Part 393 of this subchapter and any additional parts and accessories which may affect safety of operation, including but not limited to, frame and frame assemblies, suspension systems, axles and attaching parts, wheels and rims, and steering systems.

To me a post trip is the whole truck and trailer or trailers. I was lucky that my company had booklets printed up that listed all items to check. We did our pre-trip just like the post trip and it took us 30 minutes. It was not good to have an item caught by the on-coming driver for something you should have fixed. You'd hear about it for at least a month.

 

Yeh...but look what you haul I'd be all up in yer business if I grabbed a trailer you just dropped. And it had issues.

The funniest "violation" I ever got about a trailer inspection. Came from a CFI Million Miler that called in on me after we swapped trailers.

I had swept a pile of sand up in the corner (beside the door) of the trailer, and left it. Company policy said we could not sweep it into the parking lot of a customer. They had no scoop...I had no scoop. It was a lot of sand.

The trailer was about half loaded when the other driver showed up, and the swap took place.

And the rest is history. I love a whinner.

 

I do a detailed pre-trip,though I re-arrange things sometimes. If I'm parked at a rest stop or (heaven forfend) alongside the on-ramp, I check all but the fluids. If I'm at a terminal or truck stop, I check the fluids too.

If I skipped the fluids in the morning, I'll stop at the first truck stop I see and check them there. Lame reasoning is that if I'm low, I can't do anything about it anyway. If I'm so low I can't drive the truck, I'd either have seen it in the guages the day before, or I'd see the puddle in the morning.

Post trip is pretty much an external, check lights, coupling, tires, etc. Anything under the hood I should already be aware of.

 

Pre-Trip Vehicle Inspection

do all this in less then 15 minutes and I'll give you a cigar!

Ready, GO!!! I'M counting...

11.1.1 Engine Compartment (Engine Off)

Leaks/Hoses

• Look for puddles on the ground.
• Look for dripping fluids on underside of engine and transmission.
• Inspect hoses for condition and leaks.

Oil Level

• Indicate where dipstick is located.
• See that oil level is within safe operating range. Level must be above refill mark.

Coolant Level

• Inspect reservoir sight glass, or
• (If engine is not hot), remove radiator cap and check for visible coolant level.

Power Steering Fluid

• Indicate where power steering fluid dipstick is located.
• Check for adequate power steering fluid level. Level must be above refill mark.

Engine Compartment Belts

• Check the following belts for snugness (up to 3/4 inch play at center of belt), cracks, or frays:
  • Power steering belt.
  • Water pump belt.
  • Alternator belt.
  • Air compressor belt.

Note: If any of the components listed above are not belt driven, you must:

• Tell the examiner which component(s) are not belt driven.
• Make sure component(s) are operating properly, are not damaged or leaking, and are mounted securely.

Clutch/Gearshift

• Depress clutch.
• Place gearshift lever in neutral (or park, for automatic transmissions).
• Start engine, then release clutch slowly.

11.1.2 - Cab Check/Engine Start

Oil Pressure Gauge

• Make sure oil pressure gauge is working.
• Check that pressure gauge shows increasing or normal oil pressure or that the warning light goes off.
• If equipped, oil temperature gauge should begin a gradual rise to the normal operating range.

Temperature Gauge

• Make sure the temperature gauge is working.
• Temperature should begin to climb to the normal operating range or temperature light should be off.

Ammeter/Voltmeter

• Check that gauges show alternator and/or generator is charging or that warning light is off.

Mirrors and Windshield

• Mirrors should be clean and adjusted properly from the inside.
• Windshield should be clean with no illegal stickers, no obstructions, or damage to the glass.

Emergency Equipment

• Check for spare electrical fuses.
• Check for three red reflective triangles.
• Check for a properly charged and rated fire extinguisher.

Note: If the vehicle is not equipped with electrical fuses, you must mention this to the examiner.
Steering Play

• Non-power steering: Check for excessive play by turning steering wheel back and forth. Play should not exceed 10 degrees (or about two inches on a 20-inch wheel).
• Power steering: With the engine running, check for excessive play by turning the steering wheel back and forth. Play should not exceed 10 degrees (or about two inches on a 20-inch wheel) before front left wheel barely moves.

Wipers/Washers

• Check that wiper arms and blades are secure, not damaged, and operate smoothly.
• If equipped, windshield washers must operate correctly.

Lights/Reflectors/Reflector Tape Condition (Sides & Rear)

• Test that dash indicators work when corresponding lights are turned on:
  • Left turn signal.
  • Right turn signal.
  • Four-way emergency flashers.
  • High beam headlight.
  • Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) indicator.
• Check that all external lights and reflective equipment are clean and functional. Light and reflector checks include:
  • Clearance lights (red on rear, amber elsewhere).
  • Headlights (high and low beams).
  • Taillights.
  • Backing lights.
  • Turn signals.
  • Four-way flashers.
  • Brake lights.
  • Red reflectors (on rear) and amber reflectors (elsewhere).
  • Reflector tape condition

Note: Checks of brake, turn signal and four-way flasher functions must be done separately.
Horn

• Check that air horn and/or electric horn work.

Heater/Defroster

• Test that the heater and defroster work.

Parking Brake Check

• With the parking brake engaged (trailer brakes released on combination vehicles), check that the parking brake will hold vehicle by gently trying to pull forward with parking brake on.
• With the parking brake released and the trailer parking brake engaged (combination vehicles only), check that the trailer parking brake will hold vehicle by gently trying to pull forward with the trailer parking brake on.

Hydraulic Brake Check

• Pump the brake pedal three times, then hold it down for five seconds. The brake pedal should not move (depress) during the five seconds.
• If equipped with a hydraulic brake reserve (back-up) system, with the key off, depress the brake pedal and listen for the sound of the reserve system electric motor.
• Check that the warning buzzer or light is off.

Air Brake Check (Air Brake Equipped Vehicles Only)

• Failure to perform all three components of the air brake check correctly will result in an automatic failure of the vehicle inspection test. Air brake safety devices vary. However, this procedure is designed to see that any safety device operates correctly as air pressure drops from normal to a low air condition. For safety purposes, in areas where an incline is present, you will use wheel chocks during the air brake check. The proper procedures for inspecting the air brake system are as follows:
  • Shut off the engine, chock your wheels, if necessary, release the tractor protection valve and parking brake (push in), fully apply the foot brake and hold it for one minute. Check the air gauge to see if the air pressure drops more than three pounds in one minute (single vehicle) or four pounds in one minute (combination vehicle).
  • Begin fanning off the air pressure by rapidly applying and releasing the foot brake. Low air warning devices (buzzer, light, flag) should activate before air pressure drops below 60 psi.
  • Continue to fan off the air pressure. At approximately 40 psi on a tractor-trailer combination vehicle, the tractor protection valve and parking brake valve should close (pop out). On other combination vehicle types and single vehicle types, the parking brake valve should close (pop out).

Service Brake Check
You will be required to check the application of air or hydraulic service brakes. This procedure is designed to determine that the brakes are working correctly and that the vehicle does not pull to one side or the other.
Pull forward at 5 mph, apply the service brake and stop. Check to see that the vehicle does not pull to either side and that it stops when brake is applied.
Safety Belt

• Check that the safety belt is securely mounted, adjusts, latches properly and is not ripped or frayed.

11.2.1- Steering

Steering Box/Hoses

• Check that the steering box is securely mounted and not leaking. Look for any missing nuts, bolts, and cotter keys.
• Check for power steering fluid leaks or damage to power steering hoses.

Steering Linkage

• See that connecting links, arms, and rods from the steering box to the wheel are not worn or cracked.
• Check that joints and sockets are not worn or loose and that there are no missing nuts, bolts, or cotter keys.

11.2.2 - Suspension

Springs/Air/Torque

• Look for missing, shifted, cracked, or broken leaf springs.
• Look for broken or distorted coil springs.
• If vehicle is equipped with torsion bars, torque arms, or other types of suspension components, check that they are not damaged and are mounted securely.
• Air ride suspension should be checked for damage and leaks.

Mounts

• Look for cracked or broken spring hangers, missing or damaged bushings, and broken, loose, or missing bolts, u-bolts or other axle mounting parts. (The mounts should be checked at each point where they are secured to the vehicle frame and axle).
  

Shock Absorbers

• See that shock absorbers are secure and that there are no leaks.

Note: Be prepared to perform the same suspension components inspection on every axle (power unit and trailer, if equipped).
11.2.3 - Brakes

Slack Adjustors

• Look for broken, loose, or missing parts.
• For manual slack adjustors, the brake rod should not move more than one inch (with the brakes released) when pulled by hand.

Brake Chambers

• See that brake chambers are not leaking, cracked, or dented and are mounted securely.

Brake Hoses/Lines

• Look for cracked, worn, or leaking hoses, lines, and couplings.

Drum Brake

• Check for cracks, dents, or holes. Also check for loose or missing bolts.
• Brake linings (where visible) should not be worn dangerously thin.

Brake Linings

• On some brake drums, there are openings where the brake linings can be seen from outside the drum. For this type of drum, check that a visible amount of brake lining is showing.

Note: Be prepared to perform the same brake components inspection on every axle (power unit and trailer, if equipped).
11.2.4 - Wheels

Rims

• Check for damaged or bent rims. Rims cannot have welding repairs.

Tires

• The following items must be inspected on every tire:
  • Tread depth: Check for minimum tread depth (4/32 on steering axle tires, 2/32 on all other tires).
  • Tire condition: Check that tread is evenly worn and look for cuts or other damage to tread or sidewalls. Also, make sure that valve caps and stems are not missing, broken, or damaged.
  • Tire inflation: Check for proper inflation by using a tire gauge, or inflation by striking tires with a mallet or other similar device.

Note: You will not get credit if you simply kick the tires to check for proper inflation.
Hub Oil Seals/Axle Seals
See that hub oil/grease seals and axle seals are not leaking and, if wheel has a sight glass, oil level is adequate.
Lug Nuts
Check that all lug nuts are present, free of cracks and distortions, and show no signs of looseness such as rust trails or shiny threads.
Make sure all bolt holes are not cracked or distorted.
Spacers
If equipped, check that spacers are not bent, damaged, or rusted through.
Spacers should be evenly centered, with the dual wheels and tires evenly separated.
Note: Be prepared to perform the same wheel inspection on every axle (power unit and trailer, if equipped).
11.2.5 - Side of Vehicle</EM></STRONG>

Door(s)/Mirror(s)

• Check that door(s) are not damaged and that they open and close properly from the outside.
• Hinges should be secure with seals intact.
• Check that mirror(s) and mirror brackets are not damaged and are mounted securely with no loose fittings.

Fuel Tank

• Check that tank(s) are secure, cap(s) are tight, and that there are no leaks from tank(s) or lines.

Battery/Box

• Wherever located, see that battery(s) are secure, connections are tight, and cell caps are present.
• Battery connections should not show signs of excessive corrosion.
• Battery box and cover or door must be secure.

Drive Shaft

• See that drive shaft is not bent or cracked.
• Couplings should be secure and free of foreign objects.

Exhaust System

• Check system for damage and signs of leaks such as rust or carbon soot.
• System should be connected tightly and mounted securely.

Frame

• Look for cracks, broken welds, holes or other damage to the longitudinal frame members, cross members, box, and floor.

11.2.6 - Rear of Vehicle

Splash Guards

• If equipped, check that splash guards or mud flaps are not damaged and are mounted securely.

Doors/Ties/Lifts

• Check that doors and hinges are not damaged and that they open, close, and latch properly from the outside, if equipped.
• Ties, straps, chains, and binders must also be secure.
• If equipped with a cargo lift, look for leaking, damaged or missing parts and explain how it should be checked for correct operation.
• Lift must be fully retracted and latched securely.

11.2.7 - Tractor/Coupling

Air/Electric Lines

• Listen for air leaks. Check that air hoses and electrical lines are not cut, chafed, spliced, or worn (steel braid should not show through).
• Make sure air and electrical lines are not tangled, pinched, or dragging against tractor parts.

Catwalk

• Check that the catwalk is solid, clear of objects, and securely bolted to tractor frame.

Mounting Bolts

• Look for loose or missing mounting brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts. Both the fifth wheel and the slide mounting must be solidly attached.
• On other types of coupling systems (i.e., ball hitch, pintle hook, etc.), inspect all coupling components and mounting brackets for missing or broken parts.

Locking Jaws

• Look into fifth wheel gap and check that locking jaws are fully closed around the kingpin.
• On other types of coupling systems (i.e., ball hitch, pintle hook, etc.), inspect the locking mechanism for missing or broken parts and make sure it is locked securely. If present, safety cables or chains must be secure and free of kinks and excessive slack.

Platform (Fifth Wheel)

• Check for cracks or breaks in the platform structure which supports the fifth wheel skid plate.

Release Arm (Fifth Wheel)

• If equipped, make sure the release arm is in the engaged position and the safety latch is in place.

Kingpin/Apron/Gap

• Check that the kingpin is not bent.
• Make sure the visible part of the apron is not bent, cracked, or broken.
• Check that the trailer is laying flat on the fifth wheel skid plate (no gap).

Locking Pins (Fifth Wheel)

• If equipped, look for loose or missing pins in the slide mechanism of the sliding fifth wheel. If air powered, check for leaks.
• Make sure locking pins are fully engaged.
• Check that the fifth wheel is positioned properly so that the tractor frame will clear the landing gear during turns.

11.4.1 - Trailer Front

Air/Electrical Connections

• Check that trailer air connectors are sealed and in good condition.
• Make sure glad hands are locked in place, free of damage or air leaks.
• Make sure the trailer electrical plug is firmly seated and locked in place.

Header Board

• If equipped, check the header board to see that it is secure, free of damage, and strong enough to contain cargo.
• If equipped, the canvas or tarp carrier must be mounted and fastened securely.
• On enclosed trailers, check the front area for signs of damage such as cracks, bulges, or holes.

11.4.2 - Side of Trailer

Landing Gear

• Check that the landing gear is fully raised, has no missing parts, crank handle is secure, and the support frame is not damaged.
• If power operated, check for air or hydraulic leaks.

Doors/Ties/Lifts

• If equipped, check that doors are not damaged. Check that doors open, close, and latch properly from the outside.
• Check that ties, straps, chains, and binders are secure.
• If equipped with a cargo lift, look for leaking, damaged or missing parts and explain how it should be checked for correct operation.
• Lift should be fully retracted and latched securely.

Frame

• Look for cracks, broken welds, holes or other damage to the frame, cross members, box, and floor.

Tandem Release Arm/Locking Pins

• If equipped, make sure the locking pins are locked in place and release arm is secured.

11.4.3 - Remainder of Trailer

Remainder of Trailer

• Please refer to Section 11.2 of this manual for detailed inspection procedures regarding the following components:
  • Wheels.
  • Suspension system.
  • Brakes.
  • Doors/ties/lift.
  • Splash guards

 

That's a lot of inspection to do in 15 minutes!

 

Your sure right, and if you skip any of them,,, DOT will be the first one to find something wrong with the ones that you missed.

I'll admit that I don't even check all of that. I check what just about everybody on this forum checks: tires, lights, mirrors and that's about it.

I haven't check to see if a lug nut was loose, rim has a crack, or if the spring brakes kick on below 40 PSI since the day I got my CDL.

Have you ever been in the chicken shack with two troopers in the pit under your truck and one on the deck? I have and they will find something wrong.

Copy the list above for the next time a boss tells you that a half an hour is to long for a pre trip and show him it. Tell him to get out there and do it himself and see if he can do that the proper way in under 30 minutes.

 

Great advice Culligan! I can picture him mumbling under his breath already

 

I don't do all that every day. I do it every Monday (or first day back from home time). I check fluids every time I fuel.

Sure, things could go south between pti and DOT inspection - I think of it as a satisfactory compromise though

 

Definitely sounds like the company has the wrong attitude about inspection times! Printing out that list and giving it to your boss sounds like a very good idea. He may not like it, but then again, there are other companies out there. Most companies I worked for expected you to spend at least 15 min on the inspections.

One note on tire inspections - be sure to look between the drives and the trailer tires. My hubby just recently had some bone head spike one of his drives with a screw driver, and they did it between the pair on one side. He had spent the night at a truck stop, and was just getting his day started. Since it was a drive, the company sent the tire outfit to him.