question about coupling

It's amazing how little twists like that happen at the right moments sometimes. I'll bet that four wheeler is counting their blessings too! I'm glad I could help.

 

Took the words right out of my mouth. Amazing, but in a good way!

 

Ah one more thing that sorta relates to coupling kinda.... When you slide your fifth wheel under load, it is best to to use the same technique I talked about when dropping an mt. Lower the gear til it's about a thumbs width off the ground and then drop the suspension, unlock the fifth wheel and move it where you want it and lock it in. Raise the suspension back up and crank up the gear.

I was told that sliding the fifth wheel with the bags inflated can cause problems. I don't know if that's fact or someone's opinion but it sure seems to go smoothly this way.

 

sorry was not looking to fight.

 

i know you're right driver! i've backed under many a trailer that was too high, and you can "bang" it till the cows come home, but it ain't gonna latch!!!!

 

do you always keep the same trailer? reason i ask is USA has opted to not get air dump on newer trucks. i've had to spend 10 minutes grunting down the landing ngear to be able to get under it because some butthole "air-dropped" his trailer and i didn't have that option

 

There are a few things that I can't stand and wouldn't allow from people who drove my truck or worked for me.
#1. Leaving the door open when you get out of a vehicle.
#2. Pulling against the pin after backing under a trailer. I've seen people yank against the pin like they were trying to pull the left front wheel of the ground. I agree with the people who say, "Do it the way the instructor wants it done." But in the real world you want to drive like you own the equipment and have to pay for damage out of your pocket. I'm not going to tell you how to drive, I would suggest being gentle on the equipment, I've seen drivers who wouldn't use low gear when starting out with 137,000 pounds gross on 9 axles, drivers who twisted drive shafts while pulling against the pin after hooking up, and morons who split rear ends by switching in the power divider while spinning the wheels in 3 gear at 1500 rpm.
I will tell you how I hook up, I back under the trailer as slowly as posible for the conditions, when I hear the fifth wheel click, I pull the parking brake and get out and hook up, I look into the jaws of the fifth wheel and check that they are closed and the release handle is in and locked, I crank up the support legs, hanging the handle in it's proper place, then I ease the truck forward, push in the clutch and pull the trolley valve to stop the trailer while watching it in the mirror.

 

I almost dropped a trailer in school because I backed up untill I heard the click got out and checked the jaws they looked like they were closed so I proceed to start my manuvers.
When I start going forward I see the trailer sliding I stop fast and backup with the spring brakes set on the trailer from that time on I have allways used the tug test I do it softly.
I usually will hook up put it in 1st gear and let the clutch out slightly for the tug test then presss the clutch back in put it in netural set the brakes hook up the lines push in the trailer air supply so I can start my pretrip on the trailer and fill the trailer tanks at the same time.

 

I actually object pretty strongly to banging the kingpin.. not just for wear and tear, etc. There's a REASON you don't bang.. When you bang on something, things tend to bounce. Had it happen to me my first week out. Banged a trailer... the jaws in my 5th wheel closed on nothing because the trailer and truck had bounced far enough appart that the kingpin was outside the reach of the jaws.

It wasn't that hard of a bang, either. Nothing fell in the cab, my teeth are all still here. Just a good solid thump because I let up too much on the clutch for a moment.

Sure, you can spot it (as I did) with either the tug test or by crawling under. The point is, you shouldn't have to do 60% of the process over again We have enough problems without deliberately adding to them. Ease under, hear the click, and double check anyway. Odds are darn good that at this point you can roll up the gear and drive away instead of having to re-release the 5th wheel....

 

For those of you who have the pleasure of hooking up to a trailer that someone dropped high and is heavy, you can carry four short pieces of 2x6 to drive your rear wheels up on when coupling, save yourself from cranking so much. I always do a tug test but never in low gear, usually in 3rd or 4th, enough torque to pull the truck away from the trailer if its not hitched but in a high enough gear that if your foot slips off the clutch, like from grease, it will just stall instead of maybe twisting a drive shaft. At least in my mind that always sounded reasonable. I've never had a trailer come completely off but I have had them come down on the frame and it's most embarrassing and sometimes quite the workout to get it cranked back up, all it takes is a little distraction to upset your routine. Also I have seen lots of drivers do their hook up without a tug test or checking that they are latched and they try to take off real fast and poof, trailer on the ground, it pays to take off slow sometimes and also, if you are not latched you can go straight but as soon as you start to make a turn and put some torque on the trailer that will hold it back, thats when it will slide.