i-shift problem ,help please

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by charlie747, May 24, 2015.

  1. macheso

    macheso Bobtail Member

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    Jun 25, 2016
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    We are almost there, traded my ishift transmission at junkYard for manual bell-housing, flywheel and some other small stuff needed on truck, changing the rear main seal and valve cover gasket whilst at it...will upload some pix later when done...so far its looking good.
     
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  3. apostolfoma

    apostolfoma Bobtail Member

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    Jul 8, 2016
    Los Angeles
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    Hi, I got ABS module replacement in Wichita, dealer charge me 5500$ and it took 3 weeks. After 200 miles everything is back. I got to another dealer and showed your posts and they found that it is what you said. TECU ribbon tape problem! I'm so happy and thankful to you!!!!!!!!!
     
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  4. benrab

    benrab Medium Load Member

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    Apr 5, 2015
    Quebec ,Canada
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    I'll be honest with you the first time i had a problem like yours (two years ago) i spent a lot of time to be able to figure out .
    I'm proud to be able to help you.
    Ben
     
  5. Rob100100

    Rob100100 Light Load Member

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    Mar 5, 2016
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    Way to go Neighbor. Why I like this board.
     
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  6. macheso

    macheso Bobtail Member

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    Jun 25, 2016
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    the job is complete, got one issue - truck will not start with key so we are cranking truck mechanically from starter and l am sure it has to do withe R-13 relay you mentioned above may you please elaborate on the location and how exactly to bypass it...thanks a lot.
     
  7. macheso

    macheso Bobtail Member

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    Jun 25, 2016
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    Finally got the whole installation job done, just having a issue starting truck via key ignition, and l pretty confident that it has to do with R-13 relay and the starting circuit, May you please elaborate as to the location of the R-13 relay and how to bypass it. As of now we are starting truck mechanically at starter. thanks for your help....
     
  8. benrab

    benrab Medium Load Member

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    Apr 5, 2015
    Quebec ,Canada
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    Well,i can tell you all that i know about the starting circuit but it's complicate a little bit, because one side there is hard wires involved and on other side Data communication between truck ECU(S).
    First,on the starter there is a relay (bolted), the coil of that relay is ground controlled by the engine ECU.
    Note 1:When the engine is not cranking that ground wire between EECU and starter coil relay is remain residual positiv voltage by the EECU.
    (I recommand you to remove 1 wire of the starter relay in the first step to correctly identify which one is come from the EECU and which one is come from the R-13 relay because when both are connected you will not able to figure out.)
    The other end of the starter coil relay is positive controlled by the signal come from the cab (can be easy read at the engine interface with a break-out box pin no 35 to see if the ignition start signal is getting out from the cab)
    In the cab in the tec tray (fuses and relay location) there is a micro relay R-13 (see label under the tec tray cover to make sure the correct position of the relay and confirm my said about the relay description) one side of the coil of that relay is 12 volts ignition supply by the I-Shift fuse the other end of the coil relay R-13 is ground controlled by the VECU pin A:11
    Note 2: The Transmission ECU and Vehicule ECU are talking together over Data link circuit to determine if the transmission is on neutral.(tricky)
    The output voltage signal of the start position of the ignition switch is passing through the R-13 contact relay (N.O. normally open) and then to the cab passthrough,engine interface pin 35 and finally to the bolted starter relay coil.
    Note 3: After you turn the key switch at start position if the engine didn't crank during the first 4 seconds ( if crank sensor is not sending pulse to EECU to confirm the flywheel movement) the ECU(S) will keep the starter relay coil energized both side (positive and negative) ONLY for 4 seconds after that time they will cut their signal (both). . . .
    To end up probably you will have to reprogram your ECU(S) VECU, EECU and cluster with the I-Shift option remove on the Volvo Main Frame.
    Let me know please.
    Thanks
    Ben
     
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  9. macheso

    macheso Bobtail Member

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    Jun 25, 2016
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    For now we ended up putting a push start button, thanks for the info. Truck is driving and shifting fine taking to dealer for ECU reprogramming tomorrow, posting some ruff pix just now,will post more when we tidy up everything
     
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  10. macheso

    macheso Bobtail Member

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    Jun 25, 2016
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    attached are some random pix of iShift transmission removal and installing a manual trans. My out of pockets costs were about $3k becoz l had a donor transmission and clutch 20160617_100128.jpg 20160627_202956.jpg 20160714_133443.jpg 20160714_133444.jpg 20160714_133527.jpg 20160714_133554.jpg 20160714_133555.jpg 20160714_133556.jpg 20160714_133611.jpg 20160714_165959.jpg . Real Cost parts and labor $5000-$6000 shop rate variable on your location...Will post more pix later
     
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  11. macheso

    macheso Bobtail Member

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    Jun 25, 2016
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    more pix, many thanks to all those who helped read and or commented espcially Benrab...
     

    Attached Files:

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