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Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by AModelCat, Oct 26, 2015.
Page 26 of 77
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passingthru69, Bean Jr., Dye Guardian and 1 other person Thank this.
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rabbiporkchop, passingthru69, Bean Jr. and 2 others Thank this.
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And life is fragile and precious. I've seen too many friends die for no good reason. And personally having lost a piece of my left breast, my right testical and my right adrenal gland to some nasty tumors, I have learned what is important. Those I love, respect or admire are are reminded often and I hold them close. They are few. A day above ground is no longer taken for granted. Be glad you were given that appreciation for our place in this world so young. Some never learn.Dye Guardian, passingthru69, Skate-Board and 2 others Thank this. -
BAM!!!! Look at that!
And the rad's gone too!
BIGZILLA, HotH2o, Dye Guardian and 1 other person Thank this. -
Looks pretty good inside. Preliminary assessment for repairs so far:
-Input shaft/seal, output shaft seal
-Main box shift forks, shift rail detents, tower and isolator
-Reseal DR and range pistons.
Found the model tag. Appears to be an RTX-15615 which kind of puzzles me. I seem to recall that the "X" denotes a direct drive transmission. However, it has an OD shift pattern (and the internal gear arrangements support this).
Edit: Looked up the manual. The "X" does in fact denote an overdrive transmission but with a direct shift pattern.Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
Dye Guardian and BIGZILLA Thank this. -
Pic looks good but there is no input shaft seal. Tried to buy one years ago and was told that. But this one has a quad ring in the front. That is for shipping and storage issues only. It is not a serviceable item. I got my sign and will save you one. Leave the front alone.
You have come a long way. Hope you don't loose your steam!AModelCat Thanks this. -
Just downloaded the parts manual. You're right. No seal. Its leaking from there so what has to be done to fix that? The input bearing is pretty sloppy and there is some wear on the clutch splines. Thinking I will need to replace them?
At least I figured out my other issues. No deep reduction because it wasn't connected and it was hard coming out of/going into gear because the shift detents are rusted up and jamming up the shift rails. -
I was told the quad ring was there for units shipped with oil, just to keep that from happening during shipping.
In normal operation that is not a problem. The input shaft normally has a fair amount of play but should be replaced for worn splines and or pilot brg area. Also remove the clutch shafts from bell housing. Are the tips on the fork worn? Bushings for the shafts are available as one long one in the center on each side or two short on the out side of each bore. If the shafts and bushings are worn you can change to the other style of bushing and run on a new section of the shaft if that has not already been done. Do not wiggle them by hand and assume no play means they are good. The front bearing cover can be removed without pulling the bell housing by tapping two holes , at 180 degrees, to 7/16. install bolts and pry under the heads or use slide hammers. Yours probably has a nut under the cover. It is left hand threaded. Grind a chisel as needed to open the stake locks. shift two sliding clutches in gear and remove the nut with a hammer and chisel. The tool is expensive for a one time deal and buy a new nut.AModelCat Thanks this. -
X is overdrive but with a straight H pattern instead of the horseshoe pattern or overdrive against the dash which was common of that era. Only difference is the top an O plate will bolt on an X trans and vise versa. A truck of its vintage could have a lot of things changed
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