Steep downgrades

In my opinion follow the suggested speed posts. If you feel like you can't control the truck and trailer remember the "stabbing brakes" you learned. Run your jake breaks as well. There's nothing wrong with going down hill slow. Once you get used to the weight and how you react to situations you will find a comfort spot. until then take it "eazy"

 

Slow. Speed can get you into trouble faster than anything else. Grades in Arkansas and Tennessee? I'm not doubting you but I think some of the grades out west will shock you. They're long and steep and a lot of the downgrades have escape ramps. Just take it slow and use the truck so it's working for you. I recommend that you go down at 35mph. Just let the truck drift to 35mph then apply steady pressure to slow the truck down to 25mph and let it drift again. Light pressure on the brakes not heavy and you should be OK on any grade. Use the engine brake if you have one and you'll find that the engine brake will hold you back with very light (if not none) pressure on the brakes. Just remember that you want enough brakes to make an emergency stop if need be. Also make sure your brakes are adjusted before going down any grade.

 

Until you gain experience and know the truck, approach steep grades cautiously. It's better to go down a little slow than hit it too fast and kill yourself. Grades of a mile or so don't take much unless there is a sharp turn involved. Always slow down for slippery roads and especially down grades. Always ask yourself this question, can I stop in the distance that I can see in front of me, if no, you're going too fast.

 

I know what you're saying about TN and ARK same with parts of the east coast.Now the west coast has some wicked mountains.

 

Slow. And realize/learn there are different levels of slick.

Going up, try and use only enough power to maintain your momentum. No more. No less. Weight (heavy) is your friend on fresh snow but not necessarily on ice or snow pack.

Always strive to keep more weight on drives than trailer.

If you need to brake, try and finish your braking before you enter a curve or arrive at the bridge crossing. Try to coast across straight bridges if you're unsure about their frozen status but if must apply power, use just enough to get you across.

 

I've pulled some hills in Arkansas and Missouri where I've had to be in 3rd or 4th (of 18) gear just to maintain my speed going up. That's with 485 hp & 1660 ft lbs under the hood and 4.17 rears. Sure, they aren't 10 mile long, but it isn't uncommon to see a 13% grade that lasts for 3/4 to 1 mile. Run the 2-lanes through the Ozarks a time or two where you don't have any margin for error (no shoulders, no escape ramps, 10-12' lane widths, sharp curves, and oncoming traffic) and those big roads out west will be a cake walk.

 

Easy, if your gear won't maintain a constant speed with the Jake brakes on, you need to downshift, I find a gear that, when going down the hill, I only need to push the brakes every 30 seconds or so, if you need to ride the brakes to maintain speed, you need to downshift again. I pull over gross all of the time in Wyoming and Colorado. Oversize, overweight permits.

 

Oh, Jake brakes are not your friend in the slick stuff. If it is slick out, I use service brakes so all of the wheels have braking action not just the drives. This might necessitate even a lower gear/speed.

 

In dry conditions drive AT OR BELOW any posted suggested speeds for your weight. If you aren't at max gross you might even drive a speed for max gross trucks.

In wet or icy conditions drive WELL UNDER the speed for dry conditions. I won't weigh in on Jake or no-Jake in wet/icy conditions. When in doubt about any trucking situation choose the more cautious option. It's easier to explain after the fact. You are the only expert in the area & in your truck. None of the Super Truckers will pay your fines, take your CSA points, or pay your bills if things go wrong. Don't feel like you have to be liked by them. They will be gone from your life in a few minutes.