My truck came with an in-line fuel heater, and an oil warmer. This truck also has a power cord coming from the block, I assume for plugging in at night and keeping the oil warm, although the plug goes into the side of the block. The problem I see with both these units is that they don't actually start to work until the coolant gets warm. How does that help the fuel and gelling? By the time the coolant is warm, so is the oil so why the oil warmer? Anyway, I removed the coolant lines from the fuel heater and just let the fuel go through it now. Definitely would not want the coolant and fuel mixing together. Eventually I will remove the fuel lines as well and just remove the fuel heater altogether. My oil warmer is leaking coolant now, when it gets cold, not bad but a leak none the less. It leaks out of a plate of sorts, that has a pep-#### attached to it, right over the oil filters. It looks like one just removes 4 bolts and there is probably a gasket behind it. I don't know but the leak needs to stop.![]()
1984 International 9670
Discussion in 'Trucker Forum Classifieds & Trading Post' started by 379exhd, Dec 23, 2013.
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for fuel,get a davco or racor filter assembly,and get the electric heater in it,which will get it going untill the coolant heater can start heating the fuel.
the oil heater is so the oil flows quicker on start up,and can increase cranking speed in the cold. the cord goping to the block is more likely a coolant heater.Dave_in_AZ and SheepDog Thank this. -
The block heater keeps coolant warm when plugged up.
If your gonna run older iron out on the road you #### well better be able to do whatever it takes your self. They are not teaching old iron diagnostics or repair in schools or anywhere else. I sure wouldn't want just any mechanic working on my B modelOLDSKOOLERnWV, Dave_in_AZ, SheepDog and 2 others Thank this. -
I was in one of the last apprenticeship classes that covered 2 stroke diesels. I was told the province was phasing it out of the program later that year. That was almost 7 years ago now.OLDSKOOLERnWV, bigguns and wore out Thank this.
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I figured as much, regarding the electric cord going to the block being a coolant heater, thanks. Now on the oil warmer, that may work if block is plugged in but, normally the coolant is going to be cold as the outdoors so how would it warm up the oil at start up? I have thoughts of an electric fuel heater but not going to replace the fuel heater that uses coolant to do it. Once the truck is running, the fuel will get warm enough just from the return, right? It's the gelling we are trying to avoid, correct?
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I know one Mechanic that knows old iron and I do phone him now and than. I also know a #### good Mechanic that I call friend. He know a ton and can rattle answers off right after another, guy is a encyclopedia... Other than "phone a friend" I work on my own truck. I am no certified Mechanic or anything but I have been working on all my own stuff my whole life. Why pay someone else to do work that you yourself can do? Anyway, thanks brother.
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My truck had 3 batteries in it when I bought it. I just replaced the 3 with 4 but forgot to ask about the 6" jumper's. I have been looking for them on-line this morning and dang, they are not cheap. Is there a place to get them that I am not thinking about? Amazon has them but they are $13 a piece!
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I guess I'm a member of this club too. My latest acquisition is an '81 9670
The previous owner had taken the Jakes and lift cylinders for the cab off for some reason but I lucked out with the cylinders and found a truck junk yard in NE Arkansas with some 9670s and got some working ones. Haven't had a lot of luck looking for parts online but there is some scattered around on eBay and such.
Foster's Truck Salvage in Batesville, AR is the name of the place I found, if that helps anyone.OLDSKOOLERnWV, slickWillie1980 and SheepDog Thank this. -
Nice rig Chasingthesky.... Thanks for the tip on the salvage yard, at least I know it is actually operational. The ones I have found on line don't seem to be.. Anyway, I will try to look them up. For now, I get my parts at International and Freightliner, Napa for all my filters and fluids and local salvage yards, we have 3 that I know of.
I had my drive line all updated, well in the rear anyway. My front axle can not be upgraded so, will be changed out in the future. I upgraded rear from Bud wheels to Hub-Pilot wheels which meant all new hubs and drums. So, I replace all brakes, slacks and air chambers, also new shocks. I have had everything gone through drive line wise and have no worries about that. But, the little things are what will get you. Leaks pop up that need fixed, clamps need replaced, lights need replaced but some will actually start working after a while. When I first got my truck, neither blinker indicator worked on the dash. About a week later, the left started working and just last week the right started working. Same for my low air warning light and buzzer. I have no idea how many miles are truly on my engine but it runs good and strong. I just need to replace a few of the bolt on components is all.Chasingthesky Thanks this. -
Can anyone tell me that has this old iron, do your side indicator's light up when the running lights are on? I can't remember if this is normal or not but I have no lighting on the side of my truck at night, and I know on some newer pete's I drove, the side indicator's were lit up when running lights were on.
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