You could do the "board step method" but that's a process (step) too, then you have to have a place to stow them. And a single 2x4 would not give you sufficient rise, furthermore, ideally something along the lines of a 4x10 might be better. Heavy loads setting on 3.5" of board width is going to be problematic. Then you'll need good traction to push up onto the "ramp" and sometimes it's not that good.
Best advice I can give is do some research here. There are a few lengthy threads on chain usage with a few decent youtube vid links, and a few bad youtube vid links. Learn to keep your chains "un twisted" (turned inside themselves) and how to snug them up as tight as possible while ALL tighteners are "open". Then start closing them until they're all closed or you can't tighten anymore.
Drive around a few trucks, park again, get out and if any seem loose, unloosen all the tighteners, try and cinch up another link on the hook(s), then retighten. I recommend using the orange "spider bungies". Hopefully your company will reimburse for them.
What storage options you have will determine what type of "system" will work best for you but in all cases, gather up the chains (when done) starting with the first and grabbing every other cross link, then use cable ties or velcro tie to keep that bundle as-is, and hang or stow carefully.
If storing them in a bag or on a single hook, using them again, it's very important to grab two chain ends from the same end of the chain set (from on top of the bundle as it's carefully layed on the ground), and carefully start pulling the bunch apart ("unfolding it") and laying it out flat.
The first time or two you will learn a lot. The next several times you will start to get a sense of what will make for quickest application, removal, and stowage, that works for you. (there are monitor different styles of installing chains, but all should end up at the same place) Then, after a half dozen times, it becomes a much less tedious job.
This above is for single-tire chains, dual tire chains (if you have them) require some additional steps and care. I don't like running dual chains (three-railers) because they rub against the inner suspension hanger between the axles
Nothing better then the sound of properly installed chains on snow-pack. Nothing sounds worse then poorly installed chains, especially on wet pavement. But running on wet pavement is hard on chains, no matter how well they are installed but sometimes they force you to chain and run on wet roads.
2x4's for chains
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by DirtyhandsMcgee, Nov 21, 2017.
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Im the first step to my farmer, ie the customer making his bread and butter. Without me, 17 farmers would not make a paycheck till spring.
I relate it to military service. Some people play war video games and watch war movies... other people GO to war. -
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Are you a bad driver? Because you are extremely hostile over a choice you DON'T have to do. -
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Most of the fleet trucks out there aren't properly built for winter anyways. Look at the trucks that stick around Western Canada. Its rare to come across a truck here that doesn't have at least a PDL and one locking diff. Many have full lockups. Hate to say it but a PDL alone won't cut it in most cases.
Lepton1, cnsper and Crude Truckin' Thank this. -
Drive in western North Dakota for a year. Sink or swim.
Lepton1 Thanks this.
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