Ok, I have searched through the treads similar to this but haven' found anything really solid yet. About to put 3k into a new ecm and programming.
I've got a 97 int 9300 with cat 3406e 6ts. I ran 700 miles on it the other day with no problems whatsoever. However, after dropping trailer and turning into my driveway at home I went to downshift from 6 to 4 turning in. When I tried to rev the motor to downshift it just slowly died and came to stop. Checked all fuel related and was getting fuel no problem. Then I noticed that the dash gauges were cycling but after they did there initial sweep all the engine related gauges were going back to 0 value. EVEN THE VOLT METER. However, after checking ALL of the electrical system (wiring, fuses, breakers, relays, maxi fuses, harness wires) I ended up taking apart and cleaning basically every wire connection and terminal from batteries, to fuse box and to the ecm (EVEN replaced starter because it' has a little growl for the last year). I finally got around to testing the ecm. At he pins going into the ecm 4 and 6 were showing line voltage 12.4 with key on and 5 ground. However, after checking the engine harness wires and verifying no obvious issues I am getting no voltage at the cam sensor and no power to any of the pins at the plug going into the side of the block at the top (12 pins) assumed that was the plug going to the injectors, 1+ and 1- for each? Anyways I got no voltage anywhere I tested beyond the ecm. After taking the ecm out I found corrosion on the engine harness side inside the 40 pin connector that was pretty significant. And went as deep as the pins stuck out of the ecm. Between the dash gauges not working and no voltage on the harness side I am feeling pretty confident in a bad ecm. Is there anything else I should be checking? Just hard to believe that a bad computer took me all the way from ft wayne in to wentzville, mo and back perfectly then couldn't handle 1 last downshift coming into the driveway at home.
ANY AND ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!
3406e bad ecm?
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by R.I.P_Lil_Jon, Feb 17, 2018.
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Just be glad it got you home. That's awesome!
Sounds like you did your homework and it is indeed a bad ecm. I would find a buddy with a 40 pin and give him a $100 Bill and borrow his ecm to test make sure .
There is places that you can get reman ECM s from that charge a lot less then CAT.SAR, R.I.P_Lil_Jon, Heavyd and 1 other person Thank this. -
ECMs are pretty tough. Problems like yours are wiring related 99.99% of the time. Another test you can do is to load test those power and ground wires. With the OEM connector disconnected at the ECM, jump power one at a time from pin 4 and 6, through a headlight bulb, then ground the headlight to make it come it on. If the wires are in good shape, that headlight will be nice and bright. If the wiring is weak with a bad spot, the headlight will be dim. Your volt meter cannot load test the wire, so a bad connection will still show full battery voltage. That bad connection cannot support an electrical load, that is why you get weird ECM problems like this. While the head light is connected wiggle your wiring harness all the way back to the either the batteries or the starter depending on where it gets its power from. If the wiring has a bad spot, the headlight will flicker or drop out. Repeat this for the ground too but reversed. For sure, any corrosion needs to be cleaned up or replace those pins. Also, it is best to have the proper test pins, that way you can see if any pins inside the connector body are spread and making poor contact. I would also try a test ECM for a few days if you can before spending any money on a new one.
snowman_w900, AModelCat, SAR and 3 others Thank this. -
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UPDATE: So, unfortunately heavyd was right... I have a break in a wire somewhere between the fuse box and ecm on the constant power side. Here' my current problem. I can' f8nd a schematic from international for a 97 9300 w cat motor. Or any motor for that matter... I unbolted the fuse panel to see what color the words are coming from the ECM power reed breaker. The wire appears to be tan at the breaker but when I test the wires coming through the firewall I can' figure out which wire it is because none of the tan wires has voltage without the key on. I can' get the fuse panel out enough to really trace that wire without taking the dash out and I can' find a schematic online. I' stuck again. Can anyone tell me where I can get a schematic for a 97 9300?
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The oldest wire diagram I have is for the 70 pin connector style. For any engine ECM in Internationals, the battery power or unswitched power doesn't come from the cab. They are powered direct from the batteries, or from the starter positive post on your truck with an inline fuse. Ignition power is what would be coming from the dash/fuse panel. So if your unswitched power is the problem, just run a new wire with a new inline fuse holder and fuse. If you do have the power from the starter, it would be better to rerun that from the batteries because the voltage is much cleaner and more stable compared to drawing it from the starter.
Last edited: Feb 20, 2018
Oxbow, snowman_w900, spsauerland and 1 other person Thank this. -
Contant power is pin 4. Keyed is pin 6. Ground is pin5
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black_dog106, FirstGen, Heavyd and 1 other person Thank this. -
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