Torque spec on axle nuts and bolt 2002 Peterbilt

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Cam Roberts, Aug 10, 2018.

  1. Cam Roberts

    Cam Roberts Road Train Member

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    79E550E1-B1A6-4A20-A44F-17D98E63221B.jpeg gonna do brakes this weekend and my axle nuts are a little wet with oil. So I’m gonna pull it, clean the base up and permatex it. Need to know torque specs for putting back together. Than you. 02 pete
     
  2. Oldironfan

    Oldironfan Road Train Member

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    Should be 100 ft lbs.
    Looks like you have 1 bolt not nut??
     
  3. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    7/16” 50 ft lbs
    1/2” 75 ft lbs

    Use grey Permatex, not a gasket. Gaskets will make you pull your ####ing hair out and light it on fire.
     
  4. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Those are 5/8-18 fine thread axle flange studs. The proper torque value is actually 180ft lbs. With no axle tapers these flanges will loosen and move on you so make sure they are tight. The above spec is lubed threads. Probably as high as 240ft lbs if dry.
     
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  5. Cam Roberts

    Cam Roberts Road Train Member

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    Ok . Thank you. Was going to use the blue permatex. Grey better?
     
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  6. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Get a new gasket. Clean and dry.
     
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  7. Cam Roberts

    Cam Roberts Road Train Member

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    Ok will do thanks.
    What is the gasket called for when I go to truck parts place in the morning. Axle gasket? Any specific type or are they all the same
     
  8. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Mr common 8 hole axle flange gasket for class 8 axle shafts. If in doubt just press a cardboard template on the bolt circle for a sample to take with you.
     
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  9. Ezrider_48501

    Ezrider_48501 Road Train Member

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    a good few ugga dugga's with a strong 1/2" impact. should be 150-180ft lb tq spec for 5/8 grade 8 bolts.

    i normally use "the right stuff" gasket maker.
     
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  10. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Cam,

    If you look close at the hub, the boss with the bolt in it likely goes all the way through to the hub cavity between the bearings. This would allow you to drain the hub oil by pulling the bolt out and hole in the down position. Rotate the hole back to the top and add a qt to fill it up again or to fill the hub cavity after installing a new seal. Also keeps from making a mess when doing a wheel seal to drain it first. I definitely apply sealant or blue threadlocker to the bolt threads to keep it sealed up.
     
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