need advice on how to build a high horsepower c-16

Thanks for the insight Sulltran.

I also haul heavy 100-110,000. Truck is a 2000 W9 with a 2ws. I pull a garbage trailer, 48' long 13' high ribed sides open top. I pull garbage one way and rocksalt the other with no tarp so I'm fighting the wind against the 8' tailgate. It's a 550 mile round trip get 4.2-4.5 loaded both ways around 5 if I come back empty. I do have the 84" sleeper with the fairings and a whale tail...18spd 3.55 rears with low pro 24.5

The motor has had some ecm work, fuel wire, 5232 trim code, running just 2 small resonators under the bunk, 30k on a fresh rebuild. I'm just waiting to break it in a little more and I want to make some real changes. I was thinking about a setup very close to yours. The bigger injectors because I don't like the idea of using the box on an everyday basis, but I definitly would like the box for the truck pulls.

 

Casey,

My trailer is also a sheet and post style trailer so I understand you on the wind drag there. I don't think the box is anything to be afraid of as long as you can control yourself on "the knob". I have done both injectors and the box and I can tell you they both make a big difference. The injectors dramatically increase the response and power but no adjustability whereas the box you can set it anywhere you want. I say get both. Just be sure to go with a bigger turbo etc when you add more fuel.

 

hey casey and sulltran u guys got any pics

 

i DONT BELIEVE THIS FOR A MINUTE.So what you are saying is you can run 830 H/P with no radiator modification.

 

With 800 plus h/p and when you hit the hills tell me see how warm she will run up a 6 per cent hill with a radiator designed for half the h/p? This was my first post on this thread take the timeout and read what i said them maybe you will understand!

 

Yeah, that does sound a little off

 

If he wasn't saying it I will,I ran every bit of 800 to the wheels on my everyday program in my '99 W900L and with the radiator that came in the truck from the factory which I believe was a 4 row 1200 sq.in.I used that one for 8+ years.The factory rads are built for alot more than 400hp too.Just to be clear I had to turn the fan on during a long enough pull at 80,000lbs but it never got over 210 deg.I'm sure there could have been summer days that could have affected that I never had to deal with it.

 

So what your saying then is you can run up the hill at rated H/P with no overheats. Friend maybe and this is a BIG MAYBE with the older K/W-PETES maybe! The newer trucks forget it been there done it.

 

YES that is what I'm saying....I have no reason to tell you any B/S.

If you wanted to leave it a 50psi boost at 1400rpm yes it will get hot but the high EGTs will burn a hole in the piston before the engine will over heat.
Holding at 38-40 psi at 17-1800rpm on a 8-10% grade with gross weight of 110k lbs I would travel twice as far before the fan would come on.
After the engine mods air intake,fuel and coolant all ran cooler only thing to rise was gearbox temp.
You are no different to some people over here saying "there is NO way you will keep it cool" They just don't know.
The tech that did my dyno run was part of the team on CATs race truck all they had for a fan on that was a small electric one and that was a 1400hp C-12 he said cooling was never a issue due to the air flow through the engine :ie BOOST keeping it cool.
I happy to prove this if you come over and take a look,if I'm wrong I will pay for the trip!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I would be happy to see your dyno report and all of the mods you have done to get to 800 plus!