Seeking advice regarding first purchase of truck

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Redash, Mar 17, 2019.

What used truck is the most cost efficient for a first time buyer

  1. Freghtliner Cascadia

    9 vote(s)
    56.3%
  2. Volvo VNL 670

    4 vote(s)
    25.0%
  3. Something older like a 2005 to 2008 Freightliner, Volvo or Kenworth

    3 vote(s)
    18.8%
  1. Redash

    Redash Bobtail Member

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    Feb 6, 2019
    0
    Hello,

    I am currently a truck driver out of Quebec City, Canada. I've been driving for 1.5 years and all I've ever driven is an automatic 2018/2019 Volvo VNL 760 and Freightliner Cascadia. I am looking to purchase my own truck and am seeking advice before diving in.

    In preparation of purchasing my own truck I asked my company to drive their older manual trucks and so for 2 weeks now I've been driving a 2013 Freightliner Cascadia with approximately 600k miles on it (approx what I was looking to buy). Here's a few of the things I noticed (lots of rattle all over the place, truly lives up to the Freightshaker moniker)
    1. Grinding rattle from under the gear shifter (gets very loud when accelerating or going up hill)
    2. Small random rattle from inside the console (sometimes present even when idling)
    3. Multiple rattles from the cabinets in the back (have to hit, pull, punch them before they'll let you sleep at night)

    I've spoken to my company about the noises but they say its all cosmetic, none of the noises are symptomatic of a deeper issue and there is nothing they can do to fix it.

    My question to people who own this truck or a similar model of a similar condition, is this a common thing among all Freightliners or have I just got a lemon here. Is there a way to solve the issue in case it pops up in my own truck?

    Secondly, could you please look over my approximate monthly revenue and expenses break down and see if I'm missing anything here;

    Insurance and plate fees will be covered by the carrier
    Revenue: $14,560
    Expenses;
    Fuel: $4600
    Oil Change: $250
    Tires: $150
    Truck Payment: $1700
    Misc: $300
    Monthly Pre-tax income: $7560

    P.S all the dollar amounts are in Canadian Dollar.

    Here is an example of the kind of truck I am looking to buy
    2014 FREIGHTLINER CASCADIA CA125SLP Highway Tractor
    # STOCK: C-27436

    THE VEHICLES ARE LOCATED AT:
    609 PRINCIPALE, SAINT-PAUL-DE L’ÎLE-AUX-NOIX, QUÉBEC, J0J 1G0

    Engine: DETROIT DD-15
    Liters: 14.8 litre
    HP: 505 hp @ 2100 rpm
    Odometer: 880,322 KM
    Transmission: EATON-FULLER RTLO-18913A
    Speeds: 13
    Front axle: 13,300
    Rear axle: 40,000
    GVWR: 52,350 lbs
    Suspension: AIRLINER
    Tires: 11R22.5 / 11R22.5
    Wheels: ALUMINIUM / ALUMINIUM
    Brakes: AIR
    Wheelbase: 232 “
    CA: 88 “
    Spead: 52 “
    Frame: SIMPLE

    Thank you.
     
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  3. SteerTire

    SteerTire Road Train Member

    1,414
    2,346
    Nov 5, 2018
    Behind the wheel
    0
    Your numbers may be out of line.

    Based on what you’ve given us. I’m left to assume you’re getting $2 a mile, or $1 per K. With an expected 14k+ driven per month.

    You’re going to need a sizable maintenance account also. Hopefully you already have at least $10k in the bank. Preferably $20k.

    Also note, at 600k miles. A fleet based truck is pretty much wore out. And that grinding noise is NOT cosmetic.
     
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  4. daf105paccar

    daf105paccar Road Train Member

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    Apr 15, 2012
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    From this i deduce you idle the engine at night?
    Am i correct?
     
  5. daf105paccar

    daf105paccar Road Train Member

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    Apr 15, 2012
    0
    How good a mechanic are you?
     
  6. Tombstone69

    Tombstone69 Road Train Member

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    Dec 20, 2018
    Jersey shore
    0
    Your Frieghtshakers are going to start coming apart at 250-300k. Volvo's, don't have a clue, never drove one of those Hoover's. I'd go with the KW, I've spent a lot of time in them. Pete's are OK, but they're not Kenworth. That should start some controversy. I'm sorry there's nothing like a W9, if it's an EX that's a plus.
     
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  7. Redash

    Redash Bobtail Member

    6
    1
    Feb 6, 2019
    0
    Unless the weather is manageable you just can't avoid idling in trucks that don't have bunk heat or a tripac system, so yes in the older truck I've been driving I do idle.

    Not very good, I'm considering taking a $60 diesel mechanic course on udemy but I don't know how much practical knowledge I'd actually gain from that.
     
  8. SteerTire

    SteerTire Road Train Member

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    Nov 5, 2018
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    There are certain facts of life that can’t be ignored. High mileage trucks quickly become a money pit. That’s why large fleets dump them.

    My previous company wouldn’t keep a truck past 500k, unless it had a recent inframe. Then they would TRY to get 750k from it.

    Rule of thumb when buying a high mileage truck should be - Cost of an inframe plus living expenses for the period of time it takes to do an inframe.
     
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  9. Sisbro

    Sisbro Bobtail Member

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    Sep 30, 2018
    0
    I own the same basically the same truck although mine is an automatic. I am an owner, have an awesome driver whom I relied on to help me pick this truck.
    I paid cash, so got a great deal and don't have payments. I bought from a fleet, with advice from a local truck mechanic, who went to look at the truck with my driver. He wouldn't let me buy it until several things were done - and then helped me negotiate a fair price where I only had to pay an extra thousand for what would have been about 3-4k worth or work otherwise. The previous owner leased it from the same fleet, and when he got it paid off, he bought a new Freightliner. (The mechanic I was working with knew the guy, and knew the truck had been well taken care of. The stuff that was done basically made it almost new again.) It was beautiful cosmetically inside and out.
    I think most trucks need a major service/rebuild at about 500,000-600,000 miles. My truck already had that done, it had about 700,000 miles on it when I bought it. It doesn't rattle or shake at all, in fact it's quiet and smooth. My driver sort of re-designed the cab - I wanted her to make it comfortable and the way she wanted it, so she took out one of the cabinets and stacked her electronics in that space - they are all attached well so are secure. Got a really powerful inverter, so running any electronics is not an issue. It's like a little beautiful condo inside, and a real pretty truck outside, and is really sound mechanically. Hasn't given us an ounce of trouble. (knock on wood, God willing and the creek don't rise - all trucks are risky to invest in, as many people here will attest.) Now if we could just find a carrier to run for who isn't intent on making sure we starve.......
     
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  10. Redash

    Redash Bobtail Member

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    Feb 6, 2019
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    I hear many good and bad things about paccar engines but really I have 0 knowledge on what the pros and cons of them are. I'm just considering the freightliner or volvo because its the most familiar experience, but it's hard to even compare what I am looking to buy to what I usually drive which is almost brand new and has no issues whatsoever.

    It's definitely shooting a bit blind but from what I see around me it mostly works out for the people I see purchasing and operating their trucks. It's just that 1 horror story about someone buying a $60,000 truck and then having to put in $25,000 on top + all the downtime that involves really puts the fear of god in you.

    In your experience then is it more valuable for me to up my budget from 60,000 to 100,000 and try to get a 2016/2017 truck with near 300,000 miles on it?
     
  11. SteerTire

    SteerTire Road Train Member

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    And rethink your specs.

    You’ll need a bunk heater or Tripac on a late model truck. You do not want to idle any more than is absolutely needed. Otherwise you’re going to be seeing problems with your Regen system. That can cost you $10k just for parts.

    You’re in a ###### if you do, ###### if you don’t situation.

    I know guys who bought used with 500k on the engines. Never had a problem outside of regular maintenance.

    I also knows guys who bought new. That spent every other month in the shop getting repairs. Covered by warranty, but that doesn’t cover your payment or household while it’s there.

    I’m not trying to discourage you. Only trying to make you think MORE about what you’re about to do. It’s been done thousands of times before you. It’ll be done a thousand more after you.

    But you’re the only person that holds the keys to your success. And that’s done by making informed and correct decisions. And a little luck doesn’t hurt either ;)
     
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