How far to slide tandems?

5th wheel = 450 - 500 lbs p/hole
tandems = (6 inch center) 350-400 lbs p/hole
tandems = (4 inch center) 250-325 lbs p/hole

 

WE HAVE A WINNER !!!

ALWAYS dolly down when sliding the 5th wheel,it keeps you from looking like an idiot and prevents damage to
the 5th wheel and load shifts.
Never use oil base lubricants for slider rails or tandem pins as they attract dirt.
Liquid dish soap is by far the Superior product for lubing these high pressure load bearing locations.

Its always a good idea to slide tandems when latching to new empties during pre-trip insp.

 

Actually, it depends more on how the load is placed in/on the trailer than it does on what type truck/trailer you have.

In my experience, the 5th wheel is about 350-400 pounds per slot, and the trailer is anywhere from 275-350 per hole.

You must, however, keep in mind for what weight the steer axle is rated. If it's/they are only rated at 12,000 pounds, then you can't legally put more than that on there. Same theory goes for the drive and trailer axles. Check the sticker on the door post or front of the trailer to find out max weight per axle.

 

It actually depends on how far apart the holes are under the trailer. You are all right, some are 250 and some are 500. If you have ever taken the time to look some trailers have more space between the notches than others. Of course, the ones that are spaced close together transfer 250 lbs, and the ones further apart transfer 500 lbs. Just my 2 cents.

Happy Trucking!

 

Tough one. There arent any hard, fast rules as each truck is different. Wheelbase, fuel tank position, trailer kingpin position all determine where to put your 5th wheel. My fuel tanks on my 386 Pete are under the sleeper. I keep the 5thwheel slide all the way back. Even when grossing 79k, front axle weights never go over 11900. I used to have a Columbia with the tanks underneath the cab. Even deadheading, the front axle weight was 12000lbs. In fact, it had to be loaded to get some of that weight off the steers.

 

Using your stake pockets as a guide, find the distance twixt the kingpin and trailer axles and the midpoint. For the sake of argument say it is 32'. A 20,000 lb piece with its midpoint at the midpoint of the tailer axle-kingpin point will put 10,000 lbs on the drives and 10,000 lbs on the trailer. A 20,000 piece with its midpoint 8' back from the kingpin will put 15,000 lbs on the tractor, 5,000 lbs on the trailer. It is a factor of the ratio of the midpoint of the piece being placed to the 32'. Anything fore of the kingpin will be divided twixt the steer and drive axles. Anything aft of the trailer axle will place its weight on the trailer axles. You will need to know your empty weights (on my trucks the drives are 5,000 lbs heavier than trailer) and compensate on your load placement. The only drawback is the shipper has to know how much his product weighs and be honest with you. I've loaded multiple LTLs and been grossed out and had my trailer axles and drives within 200 lbs. of each other.

Oh yes, your original question. Sliding my fifth wheel moves the weight around 300 lbs.. My trailer axles, as on most flatbeds are fixed tandems (non-spread).

 

well i have a 379 and the 5th wheel only moves 100 lbs a notch. and just another comment as this has been discussed many times before, scales very rarely care what the weight on the steers is as long as you dont go over the rated weight for the tires. if you look in the atlas you will notice alot of states are 20,000 on the steer axle since it is a single axle. i had an overaxle at a scale and pulled out with 14,500 on them.

 

Fifth wheel should be a "one time slide". We run team, only slide the fifth when when we get a new truck. Load up everything you need, fuel up full as you can get, and with a heavy load scale up. Soon as you get the steers legal shouldn't have to move it again. Unless you get a real close to gross load. toward the steers put weight on them, away from them takes it off. If you get to close to tire rating or over weight for the states you'll be in you might even have to run your tanks low. We've had to run a load at 1/2 tanks because of the way it was loaded.

Easiest way to move fifth wheel, crank dolly all the way down- if you have one dump air, if not crank up until you hear air dumping out of bags. Before you attempt a slide, pour a bunch of water on the rails, helps with slide.

Trailers are 500 a hole. After a while you'll start memorizing where you need the pins. Pretty much when in doubt try the 12th hole. Most of the time, works out. I bought myself a flatbedders bar, stick it in the hole before the hole you want, makes figuring out easier. If you get a trailer that is heavy the slack adjusters are out- or you can't asjust. Slight pressure on the foot brake will usually hold the tandems enough to do a slide.
Hope this helps

 

What he said. In my line of work, 5th wheel sliding will get your mudflaps ripped off the first turn you make.

 

My experience is the same as yours. On a fully loaded trailer that is loaded with the weight distributed evenly,the fifth wheel slides about 450lbs. On the trailer, if it is 4 inch spacing it generally slides 250per hole while 6 inch spacing slides 375.

This number can be a little less if the trailer is not loaded all the way to the end of the 53' trailer or if the weight is not evenly distributed IE: Water in the front plastic cups in the back as an example.