braking on big mountains...

Simply because it works. Times change and people change with it. Controlled braking was an acceptable method until someone with time and resources to test it proved otherwise. That old chestnut about brake shoes catching fire if you let the air get between the drums and shoes makes no sense anyway. The only way they will catch fire is if there is a wheel seal leak spilling oil or grease all over everything. Or if you drag them down a hill to the point where the heat melts the seals and spills oil or grease all over everything.

 

If your desire is to disagree with anything in government print be my guest..but there is a third way...you can try it since you don't like the snub issue;

HANG OUT YOUR DOOR, DRAG YOUR FEET ON THE PAVEMENT, AND PRAY YOUR FEET DOWN HEAT UP OR LOSE TRACTION!

 

That's right, 2 lower goin down than what ya come up in. i've seen too many folks light em up on the grades cause they were impatient. colorado dot has a free tape or cd they are more than happy to send about how to run the rockies for those who want to do it right.

 

I justread an article on this method published by a PhD at USC(University of Spoiled Children), he stated that the next step requires that you request help from Barney, Wilma, & Betty!!!

 

I Was just on the cdot website and didn't see a link to tha information. Do yup know the name of the video or what division I might contact to obtain a copy?

 

This is an endless debate. I see trucks with trailers burnt to the ground, with drivers saying it never happened before, once is all it takes. I spend most of my miles heavy doing mountains and either will generally work. Some of this comes down to situation and preference. Experience will give you the ability to know which style of braking is correct for the peticular situation you find your self in. I find both work well normally. Its not the normal that will get you. PRETRIPS is the most important item in preventing brake failure. The I teach a new driver to check brake adjustment is with a wrench in hand. Adjust it then you know, while your in the right position inspect it and the drum for problems. Now is the time to prevent brake failure. If your in doubt find out from your shop how your company wants them adjusted. I tighten them up snug and back them off between 1/4 to 1/2, But I like them a little tight. Good Luck and be safe.

 

I agree with you completely...funny thing, when I was with Swift, the first 11 years we taught our students how to adjust brakes, what to look for, what is bad...about 2 years ago, somebody in Safety or Maintenance decided that the Mentors weren't "qualified" to teach such things...so they outlawed the lesson from the Mentors, and required each student to attend (in Phoenix) a road safety class, where they taught them the "right way" of these things. Now it could take your DM weeks, maybe months to get you to Phoenix to attend the class...but in the meantime, the rookies were running the 42k paper loads from OR, WA, and ID, and other heavy loads out of SLC, without the knowledge of how to adjust brakes...GENIOUS PURELY GENIOUS THOUGHT PROCESS from safety don't ya think?

 

All -

This is great info. It has taught me a lot. Thanks!!

I live in Colorado. I love the mountains and the mountain driving; in a 4 X 4. The best part is seeing those that know it all - driven way too fast on ice and snow - and at the bottom, or just before the bottom, I get to pass them by as they are trying to figure out why the are in a ditch.

So here is the question, what (or how) does one drive them big toys down Vail pass in the snow or ice covered road? I all ready get the slow and easy part, what about the rest?

 

The most important thing no one has mentioned is to have brakes when you get to the bottom......

 

I'll drink to that. (so to speak).
I always pick up the pieces so our shop can weld them back into the drum, if there is pieces of the linings JB Weld works at least as good as JB Hunt drives.