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Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by MACK E-6, Dec 11, 2017.

  1. Linte_Loco

    Linte_Loco Road Train Member

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    Apr 24, 2011
    LA (lower Alabama)
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    I only use straps with chains on end. I loop the rub rail, but always catch the d ring on my rail with chain.

    I won’t trust it completely
     
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  3. johndeere4020

    johndeere4020 Road Train Member

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    Ohio
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    That’s why I’d peel that sticker.
     
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  4. Hammer166

    Hammer166 Crusty Information Officer

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    Aug 18, 2007
    ~8600+' and loving it!
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    Since I haven't pulled a deck since before a lot of you were born, I got a question. Aren't tiedown points msrked with WLL since the new securement rules came out? And how's that work on older equipment?
     
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  5. ChaoSS

    ChaoSS Road Train Member

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    Sep 20, 2014
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    I agree. Unless the manufacturer barely welded the rail in place (and I see full welds) the rub rails are a perfectly good securement point for straps. Many aluminum trailers those are the only place to hook to.
     
  6. ChaoSS

    ChaoSS Road Train Member

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    They don't have to be, no. That's the rule as of now.

    Most trailers will come with a plate giving the ratings for various tie down points.
     
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  7. johndeere4020

    johndeere4020 Road Train Member

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    ChaoSS is right, tie downs aren’t required to be rated.
    that’s easy to deal with.
     
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  8. Tug Toy

    Tug Toy Road Train Member

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    My Reitnouer has a label that says my rub rails are good for 5500 lbs.

    Huh
     
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  9. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Yukon, OK
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    As long as your rub rail are sufficiently rated, go for it. Personally, unless I must go outside the rub rail on an over width load I always go inside the rub rail. It only makes sense, based on the rare but possible event that you OR someone else rubs down that rail.
     
  10. Tug Toy

    Tug Toy Road Train Member

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    Where would you have me hook my straps?

    It’s only the metal part on the outside most of the time? Still not sure where else I would run my flat hooks too?

    I’m all ears if there is a better way?
     
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  11. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Nov 23, 2012
    Yukon, OK
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    I've pulled a variety of trailers. On the Utility I sold a few months ago the j-hooks could attach to a rail just past the winch rails. Other trailers it was a head scratcher. There were a few power only loads I hauled where the only attachment points were on the rub rail (steel instead of aluminum) or you had to go all the way to the frame. That Utility was a good design.

    I now work at Teresi. No j-hooks. All straps have a sewn loop. Just past the winches are a series of hooks rated at 7000 lbs to hook the loop. I go through the rub rail to get to the hook, unless it's over width.
     
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